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Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by DeeGee, Apr 12, 2010.
Sure wish that came in my tool kit....
Don't plug those. They are the drain nipples for the tank cap when you overfill. Someone removed the pipes these nipples normally have connected to them and routed downwards.
Added this this yesterday. My babies sit out in the rain and Miami sun every day so corrosion creeps up and on my GS the plate on the brake lever for some reason went bad quick so this corrosion free number is just one more mekinmeloveit addition.
Exactly. and find some hose to put back on there, as overfilling or a spill on the RH tank might result in fuel dripping on the hot exhaust pipe ...
Finally got round to fixing it......or at least I think it's fixed!!
My 950 looked lonly in the garage so I bought it a friend.... well little brother I guess good deal couldn't pass it up 02 KTM 640 Adv
Serviced the carbs.
Removed both tanks including a multitude of other related parts and pieces,
Removed carbs, took ALL apart and cleaned, found broken part (carb heater) found filthy dirty jets, reassembled carbs just in time to get side tracked with other jobs around the house, I hope to finish out all up tomorrow. :huh
Wow that is not an enjoyable job. :eek1
I find that such tasks are usually more enjoyable once they are finished.
I HOPE that is the way I feel once it's finished and the LC8 is running like it should once again.
I REALLY dread doing that job EVER again. :huh
Although, think of the $$$ I saved myself.
I chose orange fork protectors for complex aesthetic considerations that are beyond mere mortals (yes, ordered black, they arrived orange, and return shipping was as much as the part...)
...and I had to re-bend the left brake line holder because the dumbass who ordered 'em didn't realize what was obvioius with a whole 2 seconds of thought, that the parts are sided, and you need one of each, not two of the right side ones...
I'm a little hesitant to post the next bit what with Sakurama learning to weld :huh :eek1 in order to build his own exhaust, and some of the other threads out there, but...
I finally re-made my rotopax mounts, which I had prototyped in PE (cutting boards) and have had absolutely zero issues with for the last 5000 miles, in aluminum. No real reason; despite some significant naysaying here on the forum, the PE cutting boards show absolutely zero degradation due to exposure or vibration, and have served me well. However, I got my hands on a sheet of 1/8" aluminum for a whopping 12 bucks, and I had some paint...
I don't have a fancy shop, or fancy tools. It's easy to forget, though, what you can get done with a couple of these:
(simple tools), and some patience:
You'll notice if you saw my early pix of this setup that I've reversed the cases; I found out the hard way that if the cases are mounted with the latches forward they look better, but land on the lower latch if the bike goes down. Better this way.
Two weeks ago I took the forks and shock off, and sent them up the peninsula to James at Super Plush. While they had the shock apart Chris called to say he noticed it had NO nitrogen pressure! The damping always had a weird dead spot, so that's that. I can't wait to try out the new springs and the repaired and revalved shock I also had a very stretched chain to replace. This week the suspension, VXR chain and 45/17 gearing sprockets arrived so I began to put it all back together.
First, while the forks were off I scotch-brited and polished the fork caps. Why WP made these aluminum parts without any kind of coating is beyond me. Mine had oxidized a bit, but are shiny now. I wanted to pack the steering head bearings. So I removed the handlebar mount and dropped the lower clamp. All the old grease should be removed, but I just wiped all I could and packed the top bearing first. Because the top bearing is loose, it's much easier to pack. I did my best to pack the lower with waterproof grease. With cleaned and greased seals I assembled the clamps. Sliding the forks into them aligned the triple clamps so they could be pre-loaded, released and cinched up.
After installing the front wheel I began to work on the chain replacement. While the shock is off I decided to pull the swingarm to have a look at the bearings. It came out easy enough and after getting it clean I removed the bearing bushings. They were near perfect so I repacked em and installed it. I removed the rear sprocket from the cush drive and installed the new one with blue loctite and a dab of paint for a loosness indicator. The orginal DID chain came apart easily with the 501E tool after grinding a pin flush. The tool directions don't indicate any need to grind, but it makes it really easy. The front sprocket was pretty stuck on the output shaft, so I used a three jaw puller. While in there I pulled the clutch oil jet using the straw in the end of the vacuum hose. Worked great. The jet was full of oil, but I don't think it was clogged. After cleaning lost of nasty gritty goop out, I pulled the new gold chain through and used the DID tool again to cut a link off the 120 length and rivet the master link, easy-peasy.
The last thing was to install the shock and sidecovers and the luggage racks. Tomorrow I ride.
Put stock tires on it in preps for a mostly paved ride to North Carolina.
I have been quite impressed with the Scorpion Rally tires. I was worried about tread life. Here they are are just about 2800 miles. I may even put this rear back on for a couple hundred more miles after this trip.
The black lines on the front knobs are fold marks, but there is no cracking. I run 25 psi front and 30 psi in the rear. May adjust those numbers when I put the next set on. The front can be a little squirrelly on pavement, but only when the front end gets light. Overall, I have been very happy with the way these tires work on the street. With the exception of the minor front wiggle under acceleration, they feel well planted, even in the wet. On dry roads, I have no problem taking the chicken strips off through the twisty sections. On, they are somewhat loud, but that does not bother me.
Just sheered off the head of one of the oil filter bolts....
Thought I was tightening to spec, and whoops kind of over did it.
.....And I'm new to this bike....FML
Went on a rally race with her:)
Finished 7th out of 22 (motorbike & quad category). This was my first race:) (2days, geochallange type rally, "Budapest-Bratislava Rally 2012")
This was the first time this rally was held, I guess that's why you've never heard about it:)
Actually I don't know how many kms it was.. But first day had 96 "points to discover" and the second day had 63. I can tell you, that's a lot of points, and ofcourse there is a time limit:) It was about 250 km off road on the first day, and about 150 km off road on the second day.. Maybe more.. I don't know exactly. Most of the points were only accessible off road (letter sprayed on a rock for example), but some points were in villages - like finding a date on a statue, etc.. So it's more like a navigation challenge (points are 1-2kms away from each other) than a "nail it for hundreds of kms in the desert" type rally:)
It was fun, and we were lucky with the weather (no rain or mud), so for a beginner like me it couldn't have been any better for the first race:)
Here is a (kind of unedited, so the wind noise is quite annoying, and it's also long and boring at some parts) video that I've made with my GoPro: - but you will get the idea of the event after watching it:) turn on comments for subtitles:)
Here are some photos that I have made (and sorry for being off-topic):
This was a "point" we had to find for example (note the orange spraying on the tree):
Some of the points were connected by asphalt:
Most of them were not:
Some were hidden quite well:
Poor guy with the quad had a lot of problems with the carb. But he managed to baby it over the finish line afterall:)
BTW We were somewhat going in a team with my friend on the other 950 (he finished 8th, a couple points behind me), and both bikes were working perfectly during the event (and on the 200km for me & 300km for my friend highway ride home).
Doing a little pre-ride maintenance and noticed that right where the right side crashbar attached to the frame over the footpeg was rubbing a hole in my tank. Took it off and removed the tank. Filled the gouge with some quick steel and buttoned her back up. Getting that crash bar back on was a nightmare. I really hate the crash bars but unfortunately I use them quite often.
Had to do a ton of bending and realiging to get them back on and lined up somewhat close.
In preparation for a big trip, bled the clutch slave again and packed a new "O" ring and extra oil. Also ordered a new K60 for the rear, that I'll install in a few days, when it gets here.
I have changed the brake and clutch fluids, installed Oberon clutch slave and AS G-It bashplate.
And installed a good friend's production: A new two piece windscreen. Lower part is carbon and the upper part is plexiglas. Lower part is pretty much ok with clean airflow for everything but with the upper part for long trips it is just fantastic. No more buffeting at all !!!
And he decided to name this new head as "Alien Queen".
Happened twice to me before I took off the crash bars for good. First time was a very hard crash which completely popped off the left side clamp, allowing the crash bar mounting arm to continue past the frame and smack into the rear head with enough force to mark the head. It also meant the bolts holding the front cross bar smacked into the oil tank leaving 5mm wide gouge.
The second time was a hard fall (bloody deep ruts at speed) to the right side, which knocked the right mount into the tank just like yours.
Took them off, and now enjoying the looks, lack of weight, and reduced width.
Horses for courses - low speed or on road offs I still think they are great, but high speed offroad crashes they do catch on a lot etc..