What is a good way to treat seat pan rust

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Lee 303, Jan 6, 2013.

  1. Lee 303

    Lee 303 razryadka

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    I bought this bike last month and now I'm considering uncovering the seat to repaint the rusted areas. I have seen plenty other rust buckets for sale online. Any tips would be appreciated.

    Thanks
    (If it moves salute it otherwise paint it gray)
    #1
  2. pbarmy

    pbarmy Long timer

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    #2
  3. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    The POR-15 products are excellent and everything sold by Eastwood's is top of the line. But I don't know if you want to go to that much trouble. Remove the rust with a mild acid syuch as Naval Jelly, that's made to do just this. Then a good primer and paint. May last as long as the more expensive treatments.

    The seats do become unsaveable if left to rust for too long. Yours doesn't look too bad yet. The metal where the seat hinges bolt to is a trouble area.
    #3
  4. ML WYDELL

    ML WYDELL NED

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    I'm currently repairing my seat pan which is in much worse shape, using POR 15 and fiberglass matting. Hinges were in good shape but alot of holes on the rest of it. If you're getting the seat redone powder coating is always an option.
    #4
  5. Overdog

    Overdog 'Burghherfer.....

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    Rustoleum Rust Reformer works pretty well....it leaves a black, paintable surface. Rust on the battery box and other bits of frame rust (like the little rust areas on the OP's picture) go away quick.
    #5
  6. Stan_R80/7

    Stan_R80/7 Beastly Gnarly

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    There are products, such as POR15 that work by encapsulating the rust. I have used most all the rust converters, POR 15, and similar, but prefer phosphoric acid because it allows determining the metal condition. I found using a small brass or stainless wire brush and some naval jelly and/or 'etch and prep' works well. The brush is to remove any flaking/crumbling rust to allow acid to contact the rusted metal. Phosphoric acid chemically changes the rusted metal to a grey surface that can be primed and is somewhat rust resistant. YMMV.
    #6
  7. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    +1 on Rust Reformer. A good wire brushing first, to the point where dust no longer rises, then a rinse and dry is sufficient prep.

    It's not the same as blasting it, but it's nowhere near the work. Just depends on how thorough (or anal) you wanna be.
    #7
  8. gertiektn

    gertiektn KetchikanBeemer

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    I blasted and painted... this is the result.. came out good.
    but have yet to figure out how to upload a pic to the thread from my pic album!:ear
    "
    #8
  9. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    AdvRider does not host pictures any more. You need a photo account that you can link to for photos. There are various ones that you can use Free. Many like Photo Bucket. I have trouble understanding that site so I use Image Shack, it seems easier to me. Here are directions for posting photos;

    http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=919
    #9
  10. squiffynimrod

    squiffynimrod maximum shrinkage

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    POR-15. Works better on rust than clean metal. Just knock off the loose scaling stuff and hit it. I really like the way it works.
    #10
  11. jackd

    jackd Long timer

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    If your pan is that ugly on this side, then the back side which is up against moisture retaining foam is probably worse. I wouldn't waste time treating the one side only - take it apart and do it right.
    #11
  12. Cogswell

    Cogswell Spudly Adventurer

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    Mine was pretty rough too, disassembled, media blasted, and powder coated.
    It is typically worse where you can't see it against the foam like jackd said.

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    Mike
    #12
  13. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    I think I can see some rust on the foam at the vent holes. I hope it doesn't smell as bad as one I removed years ago, bloody foam was black from molds.:puke1

    I usually glue some 1/4" or so "close cell" foam over the OEM. Waterproof so gives the OEM foam an extra barrier in case water seeps in from the cover. I don't like the wet butt thing.:wink:
    #13
  14. Lee 303

    Lee 303 razryadka

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    [​IMG] glad I did't defer this task
    [​IMG]at least the paint stuck to the foam
    [​IMG]passed the smell test ok
    #14
  15. Lee 303

    Lee 303 razryadka

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    Thanks to everyone who responded. I will try to post some photos of how the seat comes out. Right now I'm leaning towards good old Rustoleum red primer and a black top coat.I still have a can somewhere that I used on a sidecar project. Kind of surpising that Soviet paint held up better than the German stuff. [​IMG]
    #15
  16. jackd

    jackd Long timer

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    The pan of my old Triumph was in much the same shape as that one. I bead blasted it, sprayed it with two part polyurethane primer and then painted it with Aircraft Endura paint. I cleaned up the original foam and re-used it. I then put on a new seat cover and it was as good as new. Good luck with yours.
    #16
  17. Lee 303

    Lee 303 razryadka

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    I just picked up the seat bottom from a local shop that powder coats automobile wheels and the fellow said he could blast and paint it for forty bucks plus have ready in a day and half. So I took the easy way out and let him utilize all that expensive equipment and material he had invested in. Time will tell if powder coat is all that it's cracked up to be. Perhaps the seat bottom will last another thirty years. Most of this afternnon was spent reassembling the seat. Good thing I kept an assortment of sheet clamps (cleco clamps) from my years as an aircraft mechanic. They made stretching the original seat cover and pop riveting the doubler strips back on much easier. The local hardware store had Scotch brand tough duct tape a fiberglass reinforced tape that was very close to the original tape used around the perimeter so the steel wouldn't cut the vinyl seat covering. Very sticky ! But it only fouled me up on one corner.
    The only tip I have is make sure you reinstall the rubber bottom supports first. Because they were pain to push in even with soap. I'm sure they would just pop right in when pulled instead of pushed.
    Thanks for the photos Cogswell. They convinced me to take the seat apart and nip the problem in the bud. New seats are uber expensive!
    #17
  18. Boxer Metal

    Boxer Metal Mad Scientist

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    A wire brush and POR-15
    #18
  19. patanga

    patanga BMWAirheadsDownunder

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    A very cheap easy fix is 50/50 molasses and water. Takes rust off everything. Leave it soak in the brew for a day or two and it should come out like it's been sand blasted. If the rust is thick take the item out a couple of times and give it a brush with a scrubber to loosen the surface. Keep check on it though because if you forget about it the item will disappear:)

    ____________________
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    "BMW Airheads Downunder", (The Australia and New Zealand Airhead Community). "B.A.D" :wink:
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    #19
  20. ML WYDELL

    ML WYDELL NED

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    Seatpan came off a R75 I picked up, worst part on the bike besides the tank.

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    Cleaned it up and used POR-15 Silver paint, POR Puddy, and fiberglass mesh. Should last awhile.
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    m
    #20