what oil is everyone using?

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by antero, Nov 14, 2012.

  1. arroyoshark

    arroyoshark Needing some space

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    A little late to the dance, however, Antero is a local riding buddy. I believe he went with the Rotella T6 oil. I will add my choice to the list here.

    I have been using Yamalube Semi Synthetic 10w-50 motoroil in a couple of KTM's, including my 950. I had used up a couple of cases of Motorex, and have no quarrel with that oil, except price. I have been ordering Yamalube in gallon jugs, at about $30/gallon, of sufficient quantity, from Rocky mountain mc/atv and get free shipping. The yamalube is Jaso MA, is of the viscosity recommended in the owners manual and seems to work just as effectively as Motorex.

    I routinely run Rotella in other bikes. I have also, when it was all I could get at the moment, used Motul semi-synthetic 15w-50 which seemed to lubricate just fine in our hot summers.

    Lots of good Jaso MA moto oils out there
    #41
  2. DustyWheels

    DustyWheels Nomadic motorcyle traveller

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    Valvoline Synpower 10/50, no friction modifiers
    #42
  3. rossguzzi

    rossguzzi 990 Adv.

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  4. ICBiker

    ICBiker Adventurer

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    I'm going to be giving this oil a try,Royal Monarch 4-Stroke Motorcyle Super Syn 15W50, I bought a case of 12 qts. delivered to my door from AimHi for $73.99. Have met several riders who swear by it. Here is a link if anyone is interested http://www.aimhi-enduro.com/oil.html.

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    #44
  5. TcRulz

    TcRulz Been here awhile

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    Great comparison, but does any one know what all the different numbers mean:huh. Infact I don't care.....just need someone that knows how to read the chart to tell me which one to buy:ear
    #45
  6. Wookie97

    Wookie97 Wow!That was close.

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    Shell Rotella T 15W-40.
    #46
  7. bloc

    bloc Been here awhile

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    Plenty of us know what those numbers mean.. we took the time to learn.
    You can find all of that info and more by going to www.bobistheoilguy.com and educating yourself on the forum.

    As far as telling you what oil to use, read your manual. Use the type and viscosity they specify for your climate. Ignore brand recommendations such as Motorex because that name being in the manual probably had more to do with money changing hands in a contract than it being "best."

    Any oil you buy and use that meets the specification requirements put forth by KTM will work very well.
    #47
  8. craig6785

    craig6785 Been here awhile

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    I am currently running Motorex because of warranty as soon as it is up I will switch to Amsoil. I personally have had great service from Amsoil in many different motorcycles. That being said I think we can all say we have had great service from many different types of oils. As long as it is doing it's job we don't have issues. It is when we have issues when we know if it is really any good or not. So this is one of the reasons I like Amsoil. My self and 2 others were on the 4th day of a 7 day ride when we stopped for a little break. One of the other guys commented that he thought his cam chain had gotten loose because he could really hear it rattling. He started the bike up and we could here it rattling. The bike being a KLR 650 (which he switched to Amsoil as soon as he got it) it is an easy adjustment, so I said lets adjust it quick and then continue on. As we started to adjust the cam chain we discovered that he had hit something crushed his aluminum skid plate and drove the oil plug up in to the case breaking a hole in the case bigger than a quarter causing all the oil to run out of the engine. We started looking back at the GPS to see where it could of happened. We were only about 3 miles off the last paved road, the trail to that point was sandy and smooth so it had to have happened on the last section of off road we were on which was over 15 miles prior. Being over 500 miles from home and planning on 3 more days of riding we started to go over options. Call his brother to come get him, or fix it and continue on. So I got out some J-B water weld we laid the bike down cleaned up the bottom up with gas and patched the hole. I had 1 quart of Amsoil with me so we pored that in and looked up the nearest gas station on the GPS. After getting to the gas station and getting more oil, we headed off get more patch material which that we put on that night. We finished out trip. He called his insurance company they said have an estimate done on it. So he did when they pulled the top end off everything looked good we couldn't find any damage. We put the bike back together without replacing the cases and he is still running it today with over 8000 miles on the patched cases. It makes oil changes a little tricky but he has that figured that out too. The point of all of this is the bike was ridden to the best of our knowledge over 15 miles at highway speeds with no oil in the crank case and no damage to the internals of the engine.The bike is still running today on Amsoil.
    #48
  9. TcRulz

    TcRulz Been here awhile

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    Thats for your advice Bloc but your not getting it. Their a heaps of oil threads (to educate yourself from:eek1), with everyone having a personel preference based on location, climate, oil availability, what your mates at the pub recommend etc. Here in Australia we can't buy Shell Rotalla, our Delo 400 is made by Caltex not Chevron (probably same comany but who knows) and we have products, like oil made by Gulf Western that you don't have........so you won't win an oil thread (to many variables) and your right in saying buy the oil that meets your specification:D
    #49
  10. bloc

    bloc Been here awhile

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    Bobistheoilguy is what I'd specifically recommend to learn about those terms, as well as oils available all over the world. Things like: tbn (total base number, basically how "basic" the oil is when new, to buffer increasing acidity as you go through your change interval), cSt @ 100 (centistokes @ 100 degrees C, basically your viscosity (thickness) at operating temp), cSt @ 40 (same thing, only when cool. The difference between the two being very important)

    IIRC they have forums dedicated to specific regions.

    My main point is on that website the entire reason for the site & forums is lubrication performance, with actual tribologists (look it up.. it's relevant) frequently contributing to the discussion.. when you combine that focus with the depth of data (THOUSANDS of used oil reports have been posted with data logged and categorized) you can make a very informed decision on which oil will work best for you.

    Thing is, it requires taking the time and effort to educate yourself. If you aren't gonna do that, you should probably just stick with what KTM recommends.

    In my case, I'm comfortable running any oil of the recommended viscosity that is JASO-MA/MA2 certified. For me, the importance of the oil performance within our clutch and transmission justifies seeking out that specific certification. On synth/dino: to get 10w-50, it basically has to be synthetic in the first place. Those requirements leave me with only 3 or 4 possible oils.. but that's plenty.

    The guys running Delo & Rotella are using outstanding oils.. That said, even with them being designed for extended drain intervals (to mitigate the reduced performance after mechanical shear over the life of the oil) I just don't feel comfortable using something that wasn't designed for a gearbox.
    #50
  11. kelly duke 2000

    kelly duke 2000 Closed, Gone Riding

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    I've been running maxim 10/60. I live in fl and have 50k on the 950.
    #51
  12. two trackin fool

    two trackin fool Long timer

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    I've never been a syntetic oil guy . I have tied Amsoil & Royal Purple in the past .
    My normal bike oil's could not hang in my 990 .
    So after some reading and discusion with engine builders I am runing Motul 15w50 .

    I gotta say that already I have noticed with only 350 miles on this oil change - better smoother runing engine & better gas milage ! Now this is not a cheap oil BUT if I can keep the oil in longer than 1200 miles and with a 4 mpg increase I will atleast brake even !

    :D
    #52
  13. mousitsas

    mousitsas Long timer

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    10W40 Torco or
    10W40 Ipone or
    10W40 G.R.O
    all semi synthetic and changing every 3-4k km (950SE)
    #53
  14. Tancakar

    Tancakar Been here awhile

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    Motorex 10w50 for 1190 adventure
    #54
  15. Orangecicle

    Orangecicle On a "Quest"

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  16. DustyWheels

    DustyWheels Nomadic motorcyle traveller

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  17. Mr_Snips

    Mr_Snips Husky BRAAAAAAAAP!

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    Motul 300v in 15-60
    #57
  18. CondorWings

    CondorWings Second Wind

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    I'm no expert, but I know that wet clutch performance is affected by the type of oil used.
    #58
  19. whereisgibson

    whereisgibson Been here awhile

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    #59
  20. Tripndrag

    Tripndrag Tripndrag

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    I use the Mobile 1 15w50, see photos below. I understand wanting to have the largest temperature range of coverage but there is only one place that has the 10w50 oil and it is around $20 dollars a liter. It is also expensive online. I got my oil changed at the dealer and took it in the shorts through the warranty period. The dealer went out of business and I started changing the oil myself the second it went out of warranty and I went through the oil dilemma like a lot of others. The Mobile 1 has worked great in my 2006 950 Adventure and 2003 625sxc with no issues for many years and miles. I bought the Adventure new and the 625 used shortly after the Adventure. This is how I selected this oil:

    1. The 15w just raises the cold operating temperature a bit. The raise is still way, way below the temperature I would ever ride it. I believe it is -20 degrees F for a 10w and -10 degrees F for a 15w. It has great protection in really hot weather and keeps the bikes cool. Neither bike has ever spit water or overheated in pretty harsh conditions.

    2. It has no additives/friction modifiers that can harm the clutch. The newer bottle changed the cap color as well as it says Anti-wear protection for Performance vehicles. The Anti-wear protection is just more zinc added to the formula which is a great thing. This does not mean it has the energy conserving additives or friction modifiers as they are also called, that can coat the clutch and make it to slick to function correctly. You can confirm this by looking at the back of the bottle in the API service circular label. If you look up the API rating information it explains everything in that circle and what it means. On this oil the bottom part of the circle has nothing in it just like on the older bottle meaning it is not energy conserving and has none of the additives that can cause clutch problems.

    3. Price is great on this oil. It can be found from $4-$8 dollars at a lot of places.

    Front of bottle:
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59288914/Photos/950/2014-03-29 12.22.38.jpg

    Back of bottle:
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59288914/Photos/950/2014-03-29 12.23.03.jpg

    Hope this helps.
    #60