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Discussion in 'The Perfect Line and Other Riding Myths' started by Mambo Dave, Oct 23, 2012.
Coleman fuel (naphtha) works well and won't attack paint or aluminum.
Naptha sounds... poisonous. I don't aim to drink it, but ... I take it I should wear rubber gloves when using it?
I'm all for a really fast way to clean the aluminum rims, but I also don't want too harsh a chemical that is going to harm the rubber of the tires, nor the tube if it seeps through the spoke holes.
Don't tell the pot growers that Coleman fuel is Naphta, they may like to use it for something. Not that they don't know yet and complain about the price.
Yes to the Naphta, you can also buy that at autobody supply shops, used as a surface prep to remove greases,waxes & sillycones. Rustoleum makes some and to my nose, sure smells like the old Naphta we used so much of back then when we could still buy it by its proper name.
Not buy it rebadged as Coleman Fuel or surface prep for what I think is too much money. But a little goes a long way and sure safe on just about any surfaces.
So what is the product name of the Rustoleum product? Or is it still called Naptha?
Not sure I understand which is the cheaper way to buy it.
Coleman fuel I guess. I have been using some old one nowadays, probably not good for the lamps anymore.
Rusto is called...."Wax & Tar remover" . Don't know how cheap that is at almost $10.00/32 fl.oz but went a long way. Can has now been refilled with old Colemen gas, haven't noticed a difference in smell or properties.
Any Kiwis here?....look up Prepsol.
I vote wd40 on a rag too, and will never use S100 again. It attacks aluminum parts like swing arms and such. Dulls powdercoats too.
WD 40. It's amazing how quickly it cuts through crusty old chain grunge- try it with a stiff brush on that crap on the engine case behind your front sprocket.
+ 2 on WD-40
I always use WD-40 on my aluminum rims to clean the front or rear , it's just so easy.
WD-40 is mostly mineral spirits, which is what does the cleaning. Mineral spirits are available as generic paint thinner in the paint aisle of any hardware store at a fraction of the cost of WD-40.
I vote WD 40 and a rag too.
Maybe there is a cheaper way, but its always sitting on the shelf and I ain't exactly going broke using a little WD-40 cleaning my rims.
Well, I'm just not a household that seems to ever have WD-40 lying around. I was meaning to go out and get some since it comes so well recommended for cleaning (I have no other use for it since I either use grease, oil, or Parts Blaster for the ways many people use WD-40), but between having some time today, and having a brief period of sunshine after a feeder band of Sasha cleared away that just happened to coincide with me reading ttpete's post that WD-40 is mostly mineral spirits, I decided to test what I had in the house.
Pictured is the way the non-chain side of the wheel looked after amounts of Simple Green, straight and diluted, a sponge and rinsing, plus the cans of Acetone and Mineral Spirits I had on hand. I didn't get into trying to scrub too hard because I wasn't all that impressed with Simple Green's ability to cut through what was there. If it didn't come off after sponging the area a few times, it wasn't coming off that day.
I was ready for a side-by-side comparison, but the truth is that they both seemed to clean the PJ1 Black lube off just as well. The only difference I saw was that the Mineral Spirits stayed around longer, and this meant that after softening up and moving around greases/dirts, it was still cutting adn liquid enough to wipe areas with a clean paper towel to clean up the gunk that got moved around but not removed. This was pretty helpful, and made the clean-up around the spoke mounds on the rim even easier.
My take on it is that one would have to re-apply acetone to their towel or rag more often, and therefore go through more of it.
I'm still not 100% sure there is no difference in cleaning ability, but I'll wait until next time to test that again since the rain started up again.
Actually, I can see waiting until I have the wheel off again to clean up the rear sprocket and other parts of the wheel... but thanks to you guys that clean up will be much easier now.
I wonder if I should try car wax on them after cleaning and washing them again to try to limit how much grime or chain lube will stick to them?
Again, I want to thank everyone for the tips and ideas.
You are right the mineral spirits have a much longer effect than Acetone.I liberally soak engine parts sometimes with the spiritual stuff, then let it dry and go on with regular cleaners. Seems to make the imbeded oily crud in porous aluminiums come off much easier that way.
Having said that and if the spirits got on your tire, they may make it greasy for a while. Acetone will get rid of that. But watch out with Acetone around some plastics.:eek1
Hot water will evaporate mineral spirits quickly. Go over whatever you're cleaning with mineral spirits and a brush, then hose down with hot water and blow dry.
Kerosene. Just rub it on your wheel, sprockets, etc., at the same time you're cleaning your chain.
+3 , like Yossarian also said, the stuff is cheap, works and great in fact why stop at the rims, spray it on the engine (cool engine), centerstand, frame rails, chain and sprocket too then, pressure blast it off, a rag and some elbow grease can be judiciously added in select areas
while you are at it, put some in a spray bottle, it's handy to have around the shop
I'm a big fan of LA's Awesome Cleaner. Works well on stubborn adhesive and gunk of all kinds. It's cheap if you have a Dollar General around. Look for the clear bottle with yellow stuff in it and a homemade looking label.
And yes, I use Maxima Chain Guard and PJ1 Black.......the Black only because I couldn't remember what one I liked and I think now that it is the Blue since the Blue seems to clean the crud off while spraying and not goop up so bad.
I've cleaned my wheels with paintbrushes and hot pine-sol with good results. I set the spray bottle in a bucket with hot water to heat it up.
If I'm cleaning the engine, I will ride it to get it good and hot before washing it.
Dawn dish soap. That shit cuts grease and oil like crazy. It also work great for hand cleaning after repair jobs.
Here's a drawing of an o-ring (x-ring, whatever) chain:
Note that the ring seals in lube between the pin and the bushing, but the bushing to roller surface is not lubed by the sealed lubricant.
Here's what RK chain says: Use formulated O-ring chain cleaner or other similar product to keep dirt from building up around link plates and rollers. Dont use a wire brush or pressure washer. If your chain comes in contact with water, be sure to use a moisture displacement (like WD40). Lubing an O-Ring chain is vital for maximum wearlife. All RK O-Ring chains are injected at the factory with a lifetime supply of internal lubricant. The purpose of an O-Ring lube is to keep the chain from rusting and the O-rings from drying out. Use a lubricant specifically designed for O-Ring Chains.
I agree, the gunky chain lubes are old school. I use an industrial roller chain lube that has moly and graphite in an evaporating penetrating liquid. DuPont has a chain lube in a 4 oz. drip bottle. The DuPont blue can multi purpose teflon lube has been reformulated and is no longer adequate for chains. PJ1 blue label is good.