Where are the early 90's BMW K Bike experts?

Discussion in 'Road Warriors' started by Johnny Locks, Mar 20, 2013.

  1. Johnny Locks

    Johnny Locks Adventurer

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    I'm considering purchasing an early 90's K100RS that looks to be in really good condition. Long ago I had a K75s, so I know enough to know I really like those K bikes. But I was too young and dumb to fully appreciate the bike then, or learn much about it. Now that these bikes have been on the road for two decades, I'm sure there are people out there who know a lot about them. What are the things I should pay special attention to? What are the weak links on these bikes?
    #1
  2. Jimmy B.

    Jimmy B. Been here awhile

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    Get on over to

    http://www.motobrick.com/

    Or here...

    http://www.k11og.org/

    They know there stuff.

    If you want to read even more, try this.

    http://www.ibmwr.org/ktech.shtml

    K75 triple, always smooth. K1100 has better brakes & suspension than a K100 and both have more HP & torque than a K75.

    I went from an 81 R100RS that I put on over a 100,000 miles on to a 94 K1100RS. Big change. Only had it home & got crashed out. Went & bought a 93 about 3 weeks later. Got it from a guy at the universtity near the twin cities by you.
    #2
  3. oldenuf

    oldenuf Been here awhile

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    +1 on internet BMW riders www.ibmwr.org . The tech section has good Kbike info.

    Art
    #3
  4. duck

    duck Banned

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    If it's in cosmetically good condition then there's a very high likelihood that it's been mechanically well-maintained as well. (All that really matters is engine oil changes. Maybe a transmission input spline lube if it has more than 40k on the clock.)

    Just buy it.:deal
    #4
  5. Mr. G

    Mr. G Normal Dude

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    Make sure the ABS pump cycles correctly at start-up (lights go off at 8 mph)

    Check the front rotor for axial play (worn button bolts)

    Check all rotors for min thickness, they seem to wear fast

    The handlebar risers are mounted in rubber bushings that wear out, check for looseness.

    The side panel mounting clips seem very fragile on these bikes. Check to see if they are in tact or if they have been ghetto engineered.

    Check condition of the fuel lines, it's a big job to replace them if they are cracked and failing.

    None of the above are a deal breaker (well maybe the ABS) but they can be negotiating points.

    Good luck with the purchase.
    #5
  6. oldenuf

    oldenuf Been here awhile

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    Port Angeles, WA
    The only problem with my 85 K100 was the speedometer would shut off on occasion, and there was a article for the fix on ibmwr site that gave me a fix for it. They are good machines but dated. Most have lots of miles on them. Resale should be better.

    Art
    #6
  7. duck

    duck Banned

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    What? It's not that hard. To access the lines to the FPR all you have to do is remove the bottom half of the airbox.
    #7
  8. Johnny Locks

    Johnny Locks Adventurer

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    Madeline Island, WI
    Thanks for the resources. All good, I've been checking them out.
    #8
  9. Johnny Locks

    Johnny Locks Adventurer

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    Madeline Island, WI
    I've seen quite a few K bikes for sale in good condition with low miles. Nostalgia and availability has got the wheels turning in my head. They may be dated, but with fuel injection, liquid cooling, twin rotor front brakes, and maybe even ABS they are a hell of a lot less dated than the R100GS I'm riding now. I love that thing, and would never cast aspersions on airheads. Just saying something like "If I never move on past 90's technology I'll never know what I'm missing." Right? Lot's of things could be called dated. But almost nothing modern can be called classic.
    #9
  10. A. T. T-W

    A. T. T-W Can't be bothered.

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    They were bloody good bikes in their day, just not fashionable.

    They're still bloody good bikes today. Even the earliest and least encumbered with funny drive-shafts, ABS and multi-piston brakes can easily cope with today's road and traffic conditions.

    On top of that, they're pretty simple, easy to work on, aided by their "unitary" construction and the quality of parts isn't too shoddy either. Reliability is another strong point, almost legendary.

    There seems to be an increasing interest in the Bricks among those who were told by the Press not to bother and even among a generation for whom they weren't available as a new option.

    Grab a good one, or even a shoddy one, while they are still relatively cheap. They're never going to be worth vast sums but prices are picking-up.
    #10
  11. eric2

    eric2 ®egister this:

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    Things to look for include oil leaks, there's an o ring in the clutch area that will harden and leak, and combo water\oil pump at the front of the motor.


    Brake fluid been changed? If not you could end up having to replace the master or slave cylinders or worse if it has ABS.

    Make sure it hasn't set up too long, as the fuel pump mount is rubber and will disintegrate.

    Other than that its a pretty bulletproof bike, only other issues would be if it has high mileage, as the ujoints in the driveshaft should be checked if it has over 100k on it
    #11
  12. CrashBar

    CrashBar Just Wanna Ride

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    [​IMG]

    I couldn't find anyone to weld mine, bought a Remus instead :D

    I got 99,600 miles out of my u-joint. Looked like a hand grenade had gone off
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    While I was fixing that, I replaced this
    [​IMG]

    Lots of good info at the links above. Go for it. This is mine at 126K miles
    [​IMG]
    #12