Where is the bloody tiler?

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by racki, Jun 20, 2011.

  1. racki

    racki Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    171
    Location:
    Sydney
    My first ride report, so please be gentle. It’s going to be live report, because I like them the most and being lazy I wouldn’t be able to write anything after my return.

    Some seven years ago I was flying to Australia to do some more studying. From the plane I could see a lot of interesting stuff – mountain ranges, deserts, forests. I thought it would be nice to go there on a bike one day. It would be even nicer to go and visit my family in Poland on a bike, going across what I saw. Australia to Poland on a bike...

    Couple years later I found out about Motosyberia guys on some Polish website. From their blog I learned about Advrider and became a massively addicted lurker. LordMaciek showed me the way. Later came other highly inspirational riders – Mataljockey (from which I learned about G650Xchallenge and how to enjoy riding), Colebatech (this guy is just a legend and I hope his bike is not copyrighted). Dr. Rock and LDF with their Mobius Trip are heroes too – one day I’ll take my wife for a ride (although I might need to knock her out of consciousness first...), today I’ll just take handful of riding ideas and solutions. Oisin – Jesus, I really laughed reading his stuff! Mongolian section of his ride report effectively forced me to go there. Rtwdoug with his unique choice of motorcycles and relaxed attitude is always a good read. At the end of my short list came Nathan riding Elena with a lot humour and Luke & Nick with their constant problem fixing exercises. Evan and Charlie are on a list too, although for a while they fooled me into thinking that I can’t leave my village without 10000000$ budget and five people crew. So here comes my BIG THANKS to all of you, for your advice and/or inspiration.

    In 2007 I got my first bike in Australia – KTM 690 motard . I loved it so much I wanted to take it for cross-continental ride. Luckily my brain woke up right in time to stop me, although it could add more challenge to the mix. Idea was growing in my head rapidly so I started to look for companion. Riding solo if fun, but sometimes it’s good to have someone to cover you in trouble or talk to by the campfire.

    Here comes Jonathon – highly unlikely choice since he is not a motorcycle rider. But he’s a top bloke in all other aspects of blokeness. Such a minor obstacle is not enough to stop me of course, so I poisoned his brain with my master plan. His lovely wife might still hate me for that... I showed him my route plan, itinerary and possible budget requirements. It happened over a beer in local pub and that’s it on the photo below. It was enough to plant a seed in his head. Sometimes I think men are way too simple if that was enough to make him a proper adventure rider...
    [​IMG]

    Fast forward three years – I got BMW G650Xchallenge. It was slightly
    used, but already nicely equipped. I got it at the right time – when previous owner ran out of enthusiasm. Despite that I still managed to strap a lot of good stuff to it. During last Easter weekend I took it for 5 days, 4000km trip and it worked great. I certainly hope that lots of preparation will make up for a lack of talent...

    Visas sorted (6 of them), flight booked, shipping agencies aligned. The only problem is that John was still missing a bike. I used my Jedi powers to force him into shopping mood and he got F800GS. Truth is that he lives in Singapore and had to get bike in Australia (price here is ridiculous, but still lower than over there). It took him some time to get here and find something. Slightly used, but looks like new. Due to lack of time for customising he takes it in stock form.

    Right now bikes should be somewhere between Australia and Korea. Wendy Choi is going to pick them up and transfer to Donghae for Sunday, 26<SUP>th</SUP> on June ferry. I should be in Korea on Saturday morning, bit of touristy crap in Seoul, handshake with Wendy and bus ride across the country. From Vladivostok it will be pretty straight forward – first we need to go along the Chinese border to Mongolia and then south to -stans. I’ll try to put proposed map of our route in the next instalment. I’m sure everything will work out somehow.

    And yes – I’m a tiler and my clients must hate me for this trip :D
    Bart
    #1
  2. racki

    racki Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    171
    Location:
    Sydney
    Approximate map of the whole trip looks like this:

    [​IMG]

    Detailed, although still not exact route:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    It only shows the key locations we want to visit, and it's still just a rough idea. For sure we want to ride through all those countries, but there is a lot of good old freestyle to be done. Nothing is planned for European leg of the trip. I guess we will worry about that when we get there.
    #2
  3. Muddler

    Muddler Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2008
    Oddometer:
    899
    Location:
    Dardanup, Western Australia
    Love the first map, just needs a scale bar!
    Hope you have an awesome trip
    Cheers
    Rob
    #3
  4. Shakeyhands

    Shakeyhands Goober

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2005
    Oddometer:
    597
    Location:
    Toronto Ontario
    :lurk

    :ear
    #4
  5. racki

    racki Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    171
    Location:
    Sydney

    You're asking for too much - that's as far as my 3'rd grader's geography knowledge allowed me.. after couple of beers on backside of a beer coaster.:evil
    #5
  6. racki

    racki Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    171
    Location:
    Sydney
    Bike prep


    I got the bike with few extra bits:
    -TT tank
    -front suspension upgraded - although I do not know how much better it is now and what was the upgrade about, for all I know it could be only the stickers...
    - rear Ohlins suspension
    - rear rack


    <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    It looked like this:

    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>

    Since I had not enough time to ride the bike like it deserves, it left me with enough money (not spent on petrol..) to upgrade this and that.

    First came the front fairing with mudguard – wind protection and better lights, with a lot of cockpit space. Then muffler – I bought the cheapest on the market, which was a mistake. Leo Vince is attached in one spot only and tends to drop, causing burns on water hose. I might have to pay for that later... The reason for change is that original has a cat converter that heats up a lot – my plan was to get Giant Loop bag that could get burned. I don’t care about power and noise – after KTM it’s too quiet and powerful like a postie bike anyway.
    Bag came next and is big enough for my needs. Just in case I got Wolfman duffle bag, just as a spare space. Who knows – I might buy a goat or something!

    Next on a list – steering. Wider bar, steering damper, clutch lever, levers protection. I was stubbing in the dark and got the wrong stuff after all. Zeta clutch lever is awesome – two fingers is better than four, and stock one looks like it belongs to some kind of farming equipment anyway. It has no neutral light switch though and no mirror mount, so I got some plastic one that shakes like an alcoholic.

    Damper – the cheaper the better, right? Wrong! Scotts unit might be good, but mounting is crap. Some sort of tower/pole/lug needs to be welded to the frame. It is too tall, load is too high and it cracked after two days. Welding itself was so expensive, that I ended up being north of 1000$ for this exercise. Plan was to weld it back again in Russia - cheaper for sure and cannot get worse than it is now.

    Next on a list – lever protectors. Zeta makes a nice ones, with built-in blinkers. Too bad it doesn’t work with ABS stuff. There is a lot of hydraulic connectors behind brake lever and it all would be devastated during first tip-over to the right. I got Barkbusters then - much better fit, designed for this particular bike model.

    Both Scotts and levers protection will end up on my other bike, so it’s not a complete waste.

    Stock seat is just bad. Hard like a brick, shaped like a brick and nice like a brick too. XPC seat is much better, although still seems a bit hard after four 10-hour days in a saddle during my test ride (slight baboon-ass syndrome). Just in case I take Airhawk with me.

    Bashplate – TT with toll compartment. It’s good to keep heavy stuff way down, but I wonder how it’s going to work out during water crossings. I see some rusty tools in near future :eek1

    Stainless steel wheel spacers – better than stock aluminium that allegedly wears out quick.

    Booster plug and K&N air filter for good measure and I was ready to go!
    Being qualified bush mechanic I decided not to touch engine as I would have no clue how to fix it later.

    I was brave enough to do some electickery – three switches on cockpit to switch off GPS power supply, grip heaters and cigarette socket. Grip heaters have their own control unit, but at that time I wasn’t sure what model I’ll get so it was a precaution rather than necessity. Cigarette socket is crucial to charge phone, Scala Rider and Spot batteries during ride.

    I’ve got a feeling that there is something I missed but anyway – that’s how it looks now:

    <o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>

    There was also a front view photo, but there is some ‘no nipples’ policy here that I have to respect.

    Side view, ready to go:

    [​IMG]

    There is also last minute update on steering damper - Scotts will meeet Ms. Hacksaw Blade in Korea, replaced by RalleMoto unit.

    [​IMG]

    It looks like ash cloud is gone so I'll be gone tomorrow too!

    Spot - http://spotwalla.com/tripViewer.php?id=30754dfe024e6086d

    Cheers,
    Bart
    #6
  7. bigdon

    bigdon Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 12, 2005
    Oddometer:
    2,741
    Good Luck Mate! I'm NNNNNNNNNN :lol3
    #7
  8. racki

    racki Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    171
    Location:
    Sydney
    Thanks, I'll do my best... to have fun!
    #8
  9. pirate63

    pirate63 SUPA 10 PILOT

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    446
    Location:
    brisvegas,oz
    Awesome racki,this is gonna be great
    Keep safe
    #9
  10. bend27

    bend27 by hook or by crook

    Joined:
    May 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,194
    Location:
    Melbourne - Amsterdam
    :lurkSubscribed!!
    #10
  11. FatherX

    FatherX so͞oˈpərflo͞oəs

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    7,782
    Location:
    NE Ohio,USA
    Subscribed

    VERY GOOOD

    [​IMG]
    #11
  12. racki

    racki Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    171
    Location:
    Sydney
    KOREA

    After landing in Korea it took just a while to get luggage, find Jonathon and jump on a bus. Tiling job at Korean airport was mediocre – governments try to outstyle each other by having better looking airport, but they are lacking in finish quality. They surprised with the men’s loo – just check this out:

    <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p>[​IMG]</o:p>

    Do they really have such a long penises? LordMaciek stated that Polish people have the longest willies on Earth, but I must confess that reaching all the way to the bottom of this was a challenge. They might have very short legs though...

    Wendy picked us up from bus terminal, we left luggage in storage (locked with her fingerprint scan – she didn’t want us to leave her somewhere J ) and went exploring Seoul. We were totally surprised that she wanted to waste time with us and are eternally grateful that she did. In exchange we embarrassed her in subway by talking too loud and having too much fun – some old fart didn’t like it and reprimanded her. Why not us? We were the loud idiots. Well, we learned about yeat another cultural difference the unpleasant way.
    We visited Royal Palace and then went for some food and traditional tea. I liked the old, narrow part of Seoul , food was great and Soju (rice wine) wasn’t bad either.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Of course we missed the bus to Donghae, but Wendy saved our asses once again – she talked ticket lady into exchanging our expired tickets for new ones. There was a bit of nervousness when we tried to pay Wendy for her services – ATM didn’t like our cards. She said that we can transfer money later, but I’ve read somewhere about some clients that didn’t pay her fully and I didn’t want her to feel exposed to next scam. Secret stash of USD kept for Russia and ‘stans’ saved our reputation.

    Haven't seen much big motorbikes in Seoul, but there was a lot of 'cargo scooters' (most of them were a scooters alt least...):

    [​IMG]


    Bus was OK – it was pissing heavily, we were glad bikes were already in Donghae. Jonathon speaks some Korean so he managed to explain to taxi driver that we need some shitty hotel with bad reputation. I don’t know – maybe he was asking for something fancy, but that’s not where we were sleeping that night.

    Local beer and chicken joint filled us up, giving me serious headache in the morning. It must have been the chicken...

    Bart
    #12
  13. dave6253

    dave6253 GCBAR Explorer

    Joined:
    May 1, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,702
    Location:
    Phoenix, Arizona
    Go Bart Go! This looks great already. Excellent start. I'm hooked.

    I've been eyeing that G650X for awhile now. This may tip me over the edge.
    It looks great from behind.:D
    #13
  14. racki

    racki Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    171
    Location:
    Sydney
    FERRY

    We woke up, grabbed taxi to the ferry terminal (about 700m ride) and stood in line. Almost all passengers were Russians or Koreans. Apart from us there were two 4wd with French crew and one German guy in 4wd. We were being constantly passed in queue by some sneaky Russians - there is only one of them in front of you, but it seems he holds spot for 40 others. Eventually got tickets and went to sort bikes out.


    [​IMG]


    They were still crated, but already on the ferry. Good for us, otherwise we would have to set them up in the rain. Crew let us onboard to work on the bikes and after 90 minutes we were almost ready.


    [​IMG]


    Bikes can ride now, but I forgot to take some special key to undo steering bar in Jonathon’s bike (it was lowered for shipping by the dealer). We had no time to put dampers on, I just got rid of Scotts mount by means of hacksaw blade kept in my bare hand and a lot of swear words.

    We were not sure about the luggage so took it with us, which was a mistake – we had to walk around with 30kg of awkwardly shaped stuff, then there was security checkpoint. I didn’t realise that it won’t be legal to take knife onboard and I had two of them plus knife blade in Leatherman. It would be a massive loss to my camping gear so I weaselled my way in by pretending that knifes didn’t exist and Leatherman was just a pair of pliers. We were not allowed to take all the gear onboard anyway – it was taken checked inn and would be released in Vladivostok.

    Then came the bad news – because of some typhoon our cruise was delayed. They said something about leaving next day around 5 am.
    The only thing to do was to socialize with other passengers. We made friends with group of four French guys taking two 4wd’s across Russia, one German guy with the same plan but different route and couple of Russians. I expected foreigners to stick together, but was surprised by Russians approaching us to talk about our trip (we stood up from the crowd from the beginning carrying helmets and strange luggage).
    Everybody was nice, even stereotypical Russian drunks treated us with a lot of gallantry, or least as much gallantry as can be expected from drunks. Ferry was due to arrive at 11 am on Tuesday, so after solving John’s steering bar problem (6mm hexagonal socket fits male torx perfectly), we socialised a bit more.

    Then it stopped raining for a while so I took some pictures f the ferry:

    [​IMG]


    Sleeping on the outside is always better than with 20 smokers in one room:

    [​IMG]


    Few more hours and we should be there:


    [​IMG]


    There was not much to comment on tiling on the ferry.


    Bart
    #14
  15. horseman474

    horseman474 Outback Albatross

    Joined:
    May 15, 2010
    Oddometer:
    154
    Location:
    Wollongong, Australia
    This ride report is looking great...
    Happy, safe travels mate.

    Horseman
    #15
  16. Navel

    Navel Omphaloskeptical

    Joined:
    Feb 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    155
    Location:
    Galicia, Spain. Exiled in Madrid.
    front view foto, front view foto, front view foto :nod

    :lurk
    #16
  17. jtb

    jtb Long timer

    Joined:
    Dec 4, 2003
    Oddometer:
    2,329
    Location:
    Hawkesbury NSW Australia
    I've subscribed. Keep it coming:clap
    #17
  18. racki

    racki Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    171
    Location:
    Sydney
    Sorry, I can't - my lovely wife would kill me for that.. Update is coming soon.
    #18
  19. racki

    racki Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    171
    Location:
    Sydney
    VLADIVOSTOK, Day 4 & 5
    <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:eek:ffice:eek:ffice" /><o:p></o:p>
    <o:p></o:p>
    It’s been a while since the last time I felt like a cattle, so disembarking from a ferry was a long overdue reminder. First of all, we are no match for Russian queue masters – no matter how we try, we always land at the end of the line. Second of all – the rule is that line forms an hour before they open the door, and we don’t have enough stamina to last that long. So at the end we were standing for more than an hour and left the boat in the middle of the field (which still was a massive surprise for us). That’s when the fun begins – you have to find your junk on a pier, run with it up the stairs and join another line in front of passport control ladies. There are different kinds of lines for holders of different passport. That was easy, then it was luggage scan for bombs or something and we were out in the open.

    That’s when we realised we don’t want to deal with local customs ourselves – it’s better to pay someone else to do that and use the time otherwise. French guys said that they hooked up with Yuri, local customs agent. I already had his details and using him was plan ‘b’ for us. I rang him just to make sure it’s not too late to hire him. He said it was OK, but he was busy at the moment and told me to call later. Not very promising... I went to check with ferry office how to deal with paperwork and they told me straight away that they have special guy to deal with that. Guess who that is? Yes, it’s Yuri. French guys arrived soon after that, then German guy and Japanese guy – I won’t even try to spell their names as there is no chance to get it right.

    Swietlana, Yuri’s assistant, came to take us to some hostel – dodgy looking apartment building with bunk beds, bathroom and wifi. There was not much else to it. Seriously, that was all. At 22$ a night it wasn’t bad though. Company was shit on the other hand – I guess I’m too old to listen to some bullshit-talk of young Americans going to Mongolia to do some ‘sustainable village’ project. Bloody ego pumping wankers. I did my masters in sustainable development and realise that it’s Mongolians who live sustainable, not Americans. Then there was super-negative Czech chick who did her best to make our Russian leg of the trip worse. ‘Oh, this is not caviar, it’s just salty water in plastic’, ‘local university is the worse in the world’. Who cares? It was my first and last ever visit to any hostel. I promise.

    Later that day we had nothing better to do than explore the city centre . Checking the whole city would take a weeks – 700 000 people live there I’ve been told, so it’s not small. Taking a bus was a good idea for a while - it got stuck in traffic after kilometre. So we left and continued on foot. It was interesting at the beginning – seeing different country first time always is. Super-dodgy roads, nonexistent sidewalks, everything being renovated or in very bad shape. It’s probably one of those things that needs to be seen to be understood. Massive traffic jam, cars going for every possible gap, pedestrians trying to filter between them. A lot of dust and exhaust fumes. I’m pretty sure this whole experience gave a bit of a black lung...
    This machine is cleaning the city, not sure to what result.

    [​IMG]

    But there was something that helps me erase all those bad memories... it’s local women. I can’t really understand it, but that’s how it looks – local men are rough to say the least. They look like they cut trees for a living. With their bare hands. Women look like they came from a different ape – they are slim, pretty and they try really hard to look the best they can. Short skirt (one inch less and it would be just a belt), high heels, just enough makeup. Perfect. Even those less pretty try hard and that makes them look pretty. I imagine there must be some ugly and fat ones somewhere, but they must be hiding in burrows during daylight as I haven’t seen any. Swietlana told us that ‘beauty requires suffering’ and it’s hard to disagree. Looking at them walking in high heels between piles of rubble, navigating through patches of deep gravel and jumping over underground pipe works was a mesmerising experience. I could do that for hours... When you see girl in high heels in Sydney, she usually walks like John Wayne after a bottle of whiskey. Most of the time that’s what she just had. All the women here walk like a world class models. It’s incredible to say the least. I’m really glad I saw this at the beginning of the trip – at the end it could make me want to run and rape in a broad daylight. I know I talk like a sexist, but they are so hot they make me sexist. It’s not my fault.

    [​IMG]


    City itself is going through massive upgrade process – two huge bridges are being built, shitloads of road work projects, construction of new buildings. There is Russian style to it of course and most of it makes no sense to me. Streets are rubbish – potholes the size of a small car, some streets are just dirt roads that I wouldn’t feel safe to ride my bike on. But they are upgrading broadwalk along the promenade. Sure – it’s nice to look at the mostly empty promenade from a car stuck in traffic. Two bridges are massively impressive though...


    [​IMG]


    It would be a great pleasure to come back in 10-20 years to see what this city evolved into. Right now it’s got nice location with shit-ugly port in the middle and crap infrastructure but it’s clear that a river of money flows through and eventually it’ll be very nice.

    We spend most of Wednesday on sitting in Customs office. It was nice – all those high heels in short skirt uniforms ladies (seriously – are they trying to save on fabric?), walking back and forth, were inspiring but that’s not what we all wanted to see. By ‘we all’ I mean our international group of motorised travellers – Yuri was dealing with our papers so we eventually joined our forces in taking piss at each other and it was fun. National stereotypes worked well – organised German nervous about inefficiency of local bureaucracy, polite Japanese constantly smiling, optimistic Aussie, slightly disorganised Frenchies and Pole who had all the documents but in wrong order. Eventually we got document that should get our bikes released tomorrow morning.

    In Customs - left to right: French guy, Jepanese guy, Polish guy and Russian girl.

    [​IMG]

    After two days spent here I just couldn’t leave fast enough – one week after departure from Sydney I was itchy to get on a bike. Guys were great, we had fun, city is interesting but right now I just want to spend some time alone in my helmet. Tomorrow, I hope...


    And tiling here is poor. Most is done by Koreans and they don’t have good reputation in this field.
    #19
  20. racki

    racki Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2008
    Oddometer:
    171
    Location:
    Sydney
    Some more photos from Vladivostok


    Walk at your own risk

    [​IMG]

    The whale can be happy - it's not Japan after all..

    [​IMG]

    I was meant to go there with the bike but at the end couldn't be bothered - famous submarine of Vladivostok, with bridge pylons behind

    [​IMG]

    This guy is not in a hurry

    [​IMG]


    Jonathon found Australia after all:

    [​IMG]


    Sunset with a bonus

    [​IMG]


    Team of motorised travellers

    [​IMG]
    #20