where to purchase KLR parts

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by nikodelrey, Aug 13, 2007.

  1. nikodelrey

    nikodelrey nikodelrey

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    Just wondering where would one buy a KLR oversized front rotor and steel brake lines from? I looked at arrowhead. Are they reliable? Any place that is better/cheaper? Also I'll be purchasing a doohickey replacement too. :ear Thanks!
    #1
  2. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    I no longer own a KLR but I doubt you could find anyone more reliable than Arrowhead. I had a bit of an issue with him deleting a couple of my posts on the Yahoo KLR list which referred to other sellers and their prices, he has real good prices overall so it always amazed me, but as far as service goes, it was A1. Shipping is what USPS charges him which is always nice and alas kinda rare these days.
    #2
  3. DirtyDog

    DirtyDog Omnia mea mecum porto

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    I've had good luck with TPI http://www.tpimotorcycleparts.com/ as well as Arrowhead.

    Oversized rotor kit- $185. I think that's competitive.

    I don't think TPI's selection is huge, but service is good and they only charge you actual shipping.
    #3
  4. Camas

    Camas Rooster Bastid

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    Fred at Arrowhead is definitely the best and most honest. You can get stuff from DualStar and Happy Trails but no guarantees on them having what you want.
    #4
  5. worm~hole1

    worm~hole1 I'm mentally mortarded.

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    I bought mine direct from Braking at LagunaSeca a few years back. The only issue I had was how easy it was to strip the threads in the aluminum adapter bracket. I had to buy another one...so cheap that I bought two just in case. The brake has been a lifesaver as well as a confidence builder. I nearly killed myself on my first KLR ride when I expected ZX-12R-like braking performance on a downhill run :eek1

    I also did the steel-braided brake lines and went with green front pads and black rear pads. All I need to do is set up my front suspension with better springs and oil so that it doesn't DIVE so much under braking:eek1
    #5
  6. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    Err, like yeah.

    How much do you weigh? I could bottom out the stock suspension at will with the original brakes. With the new 320mm oversized rotor, if you are anything over 160 pounds you must easily now be able to bottom it out, which under hard emergency braking is a safety issue I'd be concerned about as you don't have control over the bike.

    You've been running like this for a "few years" ?????
    #6
  7. Hondo

    Hondo What if it's a Samsquamch?

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  8. fixer

    fixer KLR-riding cheap bastard

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    Fred usually has EXCELENT customer service... sometimes you'll hear a complaint, but that's the exception, not the rule.

    i've been hearing a LOT of complaints about Dual-Star in the past year or so. they get LOW marks for customer seervice.

    KLR650.com sells a lot of products that are rip-off clones of the original products, or just lower grade stuff in general.

    ronayers.com has OEM parts at discounted prices, but can be SLOW to ship.

    bikebandit.com also has OEM parts at discount prices... not sure about their shipping for parts, but i've ordered oil and air filters from them and gotten good service.
    #8
  9. CA Stu

    CA Stu Master of air potatofication Super Moderator

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    Arrowhead is the place.

    Right part, right now.

    I went with the oversized Wave Rotors on both my KLRs, never been happier with my KLR brakes. Plus, they look extra cool. :deal

    Thanks
    CA Stu
    #9
  10. worm~hole1

    worm~hole1 I'm mentally mortarded.

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    Yup, since 2004. Fortunately, I tend to ride conservatively and have had the opportunity to do some real-live emergency braking...I rarely use the rear brakes, although I do know that I need to learn how to use it more in conjunction with the front for more effective braking. Anyways, yeah, it get waaaaay down there and its not the most comforable feeling for me on the bike....especially going downhill on a decreasing radius turn at speed where I have to trail brake due to not riding as conservative as I thought I was:huh 6'1"/250lbs of cheerful Samoan-like quality :lol3
    #10
  11. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    This is great till someone pulls out in front of you, unexpected like, you're hard on the brakes and you realize you _cannot_ stop in time even with the 320mm and you're gonna have to try that whole _turning_ thing, but it's not gonna happen, as the you have zero front end control.

    I find this amazing, sorry but I do. If you can only fix one thing, I'd be on the front suspension before the brakes, but ideally both should be done at the same time. Springs/oil are cheap once you've plonked down the $$$ for the brake kit.
    #11
  12. CA Stu

    CA Stu Master of air potatofication Super Moderator

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    I fail to see how a bottomed out suspension locks the front wheel in a straight line in the first place?

    Also, I'd rather countersteer OR brake in an emergency, not both at the same time.

    But, what do I know....:dunno

    Thanks
    CA Stu
    #12
  13. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    Where did I say "both at the same time". You've never braked and then subsequently realized that you're not going to stop in time, and got off the brakes and initiated a swerve. It's really hard to do the later when the front end has totally bottomed out.

    I don't know, but I guess you believe significantly more than I :rofl
    #13
  14. CA Stu

    CA Stu Master of air potatofication Super Moderator

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    Why?


    Thanks
    CA Stu

    PS Do you own a KLR? :ear
    #14
  15. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    Because one of the points of a functioning front suspension is to help the tire maintain traction with the road surface. Once the suspension is bottomed out, it is no longer doing this. Even on mirror smooth pavement it isn't doing this let alone rough. So, if you want to go directly from a bottomed out front suspension to initiating a hard swerve, well ...... It's of course not that helpful either in maintaining traction on an uneven surface when braking in a straight line.

    I used to. So, you're creating a new policy here for AdvRider that you can only comment on threads related to bikes you currently own?
    #15
  16. CA Stu

    CA Stu Master of air potatofication Super Moderator

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    Don't be so testy! :rofl I was just curious, looked at your profile and didn't see a KLR, that's all...

    You are absolutely correct about the bottomed out suspension and loss of traction conceptually, but I think in the real world, the bottoming out of a KLR suspension under braking still has a little bit of travel (more than a minor bump in the road, for sure).

    That's a pretty scary situation to even contemplate, in all reality.

    I ride pretty defensively on the street, myself.
    I never want to find the limits of my KLR's traction on asphalt... at least not again. :1drink

    FWIW, I agree that money is better spent on suspension than brakes anyway.

    Thanks
    CA Stu
    #16
  17. crazybrit

    crazybrit Long timer

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    I assumed you'd actually read the thread :1drink Post #2 "I no longer own a KLR but I doubt you could find anyone more reliable than Arrowhead.". Also, profile says KLR in the used to own bit.

    I'm only incredulous as bottoming out the suspension with the stock brakes is easy for anyone >= 160 pounds. With the 320mm on it, it's like falling off a log.

    Sorry, I don't mean to get all preachy but here is a story .... once I was riding FS19 in Oregon, either on the KLR (w/ 320mm rotor and progressive springs) or on my VTR1000. I can't recall. Friend (good rider also) was on his DL1000. It's a bumpy road, very bumpy in places but we knew this. We were moving at a good clip. There was a bridge with a really bad bump followed immediately by a sharp right turn. Both our bikes bottomed out fully and at that point in time there was no steering control till the forks rebounded. For the first time in many years, I crossed the center line as I couldn't get the bike to make the necessary steering correction. This was really bad. It's the only time I can recall crossing the center line in the last 15 years.

    I'm not sure of the physics of this and maybe it doesn't apply so much if you ride slower. It's distinctly different from the issue of traction management. Traction management applies to even slower riders, emergency stop, either straight, or you have to transition to a fast swerve, 40mph to 0, poor pavement surface or traction limited (wet/etc) and a bottomed out suspension, not optimal.

    Anyways, Y-traction-management-views-MV ;-)))
    #17
  18. guns_equal_freedom

    guns_equal_freedom Long timer

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    First thing I do with ANY motorcycle I buy is to replace the stock rubber front brake lines with a set of stainless steel braided brake lines.

    If it has dual disks up front I go with two brake lines, not one line from the resivoir to a "T" and then dual lines.

    Braking, Russell, Goodridge, Galfer, they are all good.

    Try the brake lines first, then go with a different set of brake pads, if that's not enough them go with the oversized rotor.

    As far as who to buy from, I suggest that you go with Motorcycle Accessory Warehouse.

    If you buy from anyone else check to see what their return policy is.
    #18
  19. gunnr

    gunnr optimsm

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    I do own a KLR and have bought from Arrowhead, TPI, KLR650.com, Rockymountainatv, Dualstar, HT, with good luck. Only problems were out of stocks and had no other choice but to wait.....the choice was mine. :D
    #19
  20. Grimlock

    Grimlock Adventurer

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    Wyoming
    from klr650.com, which rear master cylinder guard would be the one to get?

    They've got two -- http://klr650.com/RearMasterCylinderGuard.htm

    The 2nd one is cheaper and looks like it covers more area. Is it just thinner aluminum?
    #20