Which carb is best on LC4 640

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by losiu, Sep 19, 2006.

  1. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2004
    Oddometer:
    14,324
    Location:
    Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
    not sure if it:

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=206427

    has the info you need, but it can't hurt. :wave
  2. MODNROD

    MODNROD Cruising speed

    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,453
    Location:
    Midwest, West Oz
    ....off a 2008 YZ250, 168 main, 42 pilot, std air jets, OBEKN needle on 4 fm top, and a home-made slip-on, with pocket-ported head and 5-angle seats to give 12:1 comp ....... === ....... power-only front rises in second, with 17/38 gearing, smooth surge of power from 2300rpm, high-12's, somewhere over 175kph top end. Wired up TPS, 2 colours are the same (on a 2006 KTM SM anyway), so easy to do, only 50Ohm difference between resistance values on FCR and BST TPS switches (negligible), haven't noticed much difference with or without TPS though to be honest.

    Just thought I'd mention it for anyone who wasn't sure if it was worth it, or having difficulty trawling thru conflicting opinions for a set-up that MIGHT be a place to start. I live 300m above sea-level in a very dry (under 15% humidity) environment.
  3. outfront

    outfront Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    78
    Location:
    Olympia Wa.
    THANKS.

    After reading the pros and cons; I think I'll mod the BST and sell the FCR.

    Im riding the TAT this summer and I don't want carb issues at 11k ft.
  4. mstenkil

    mstenkil Enjoying the Ride

    Joined:
    Mar 6, 2009
    Oddometer:
    8
    Location:
    Encinitas
    Hi there,

    Just wanted to share my 2cents. I had to replace my 40 BST because I had the time and wanted to get some low in snap that I have on my 450 but lacked on my 03 LC4 ADV. I manged to snap off the corner off top and bottom of the lower bowl. I was tempted to just do Creepers mod and JB weld it permanently and pray I never had to mess with the jets...not likely so i went shopping.

    Ended up with a lightly used 2008 EXC FSR-MX 39mm with throttle cables for $180 delivered from ebay. I then purchased JD Jetting Kit with Needle screw. Here is what I have in it for elevation set for: 1500-3000ft.
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/* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-priority:99; mso-style-qformat:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} </style> <![endif]--> [FONT=&quot]#42 pilot jet<o:p></o:p>[/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]2 turns out on the fuel screw<o:p></o:p>[/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]Red marked needle in the #5 from top clip position<o:p></o:p>[/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]#172 man jet<o:p></o:p>[/FONT]
    [FONT=&quot]Thicker O-ring for the accelerator pump linkage modification as described in the kit<o:p></o:p>[/FONT]

    So far i have been lucky with the boots and its aligned pretty good. I have taken it for some small spins and it hasn't moved. I must say Creeps post saved me:clap I have some sort of issue going on with my estart so i have to kick it. It used to take numerous kicks with the choke on. Now, its one-two kicks with the choke on for a few moments. It has significantly helped out starting it and its more responsive. Super happy right now:freaky
  5. rruugger

    rruugger formally rruugger

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,294
    Location:
    La Crescenta, Ca
    I had a fcr 39 carb and a leo vance pipe installed on my 07 640 adv ....man it runs much stronger! :thumb But I do have issues in the miles of endless woops we ride out here in california desert. It floods-out and dies in that type of terrain. Had it back to the shop a few times and they change the needle valve and some other adjustments, but to no avail. :(: IS THERE A CURE FOR THIS????????????? Just ran a 1300 mile rally, bike ran flawless with this only issue. Any help from the ones that are wise in the ways of 640 carburation would be appreciated.
    Or direct me to where to ask this question.
  6. dirty_sanchez

    dirty_sanchez Dirty_Sanchez

    Joined:
    May 8, 2006
    Oddometer:
    3,245
    Location:
    Louisiana, Baton Rouge
    Sir-

    Check the float height.

    You can do a rough check with the carb still in the bike by holding the free end float bowl overflow tube (which normally hangs down by the swing arm) even with the seam where the float bowl mates to the bottom of the carb. You're making a horseshoe shape with the tube with the open end at the top.

    While holding end of the tube next to the carb body but above the top of the float bowl open the drain a bit with a phillps head and make note where gas begins to drain out of the overflow line by slowly moving the end of the tube up and down. Once you slowly begin to move the end of the tube up and down while being held next to the carb, you'll notice where the gas begins to drain out of the tube. From what I understand gas should begin to drain out of the overflow tube at the seam. If the float is too high, gas will drain out of the tube above the seam, too low-below the seam.

    The fuel should just begin to show right at seam level.

    Dirty
  7. rruugger

    rruugger formally rruugger

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,294
    Location:
    La Crescenta, Ca
    Thank you will give it a try.
  8. 1Pots

    1Pots BoomshankaR

    Joined:
    Oct 18, 2010
    Oddometer:
    19
    Location:
    Rongai, Kenya, East Africa
    dellorto
  9. dzrtracin

    dzrtracin ride'n 2 live

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Oddometer:
    3,049
    Location:
    the garage
    Here's the deal, i just bought back my sxc 400 from a buddy i sold it to 5 years ago. Back then i was going to get rid of the BST but never did. Now that its back in my possesion i plan to. I have been through all these carbs threads & have found nothing for the lc400, just the 640's. Question #1 will the TM40 be a direct fit front boot & rear boot? Cables, do they need to be changed, or use the existing one's? Basic jetting for 2500' elevation.

    RIDE ON!!!!!!
  10. hammmerboy

    hammmerboy hammmerboy

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2006
    Oddometer:
    23
    Location:
    seattle WA
    I have a '95 620 with the Dellorto PHM 40 carb. It needs to be rebuilt- any thoughts on this? Any words of wisdom?:ear
  11. Tseta

    Tseta Lost

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
    676
    Location:
    On the road
  12. Young-Gun

    Young-Gun KTM Tragic

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,185
    Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
    I have myself an old '98 640 LC4 with the BST and thinking on the FCR-39. Does anyone know if all FCR-39 carbs are the same or were the same models tweaked in different ways to suit other bike makes and ages?
  13. losiu

    losiu wheelie addict

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2004
    Oddometer:
    579
    Location:
    POLAND
    Hey everyone,

    I decided to come back to the original question after mhy long-ish absence here because I have recently purchased a used Husky TE250 with Keihin FCR37.
    Also, about a month ago I rode a friend's 625SXC with an FCR41 and I got a pretty good idea how these carbs work (although there may be some who will disagee - that's totally okay with me).

    So... the TE250 obviously has a much smaller engine than an LC4.
    Naturally, the powrer is much higher but its delivery is very interesting. The bike is so smooth it's almost not right :D and as the revs go up, it starts producing more and more power until the bike literally goes flying.

    When a freiend asked me to get on his 625SXC (trusting that if I was the wheelie master (haha) I would know if his bike ran right), he wanted to make sure that the power was all there because he had doubts.
    I was stupid enough to believe him about the lack of power of his SXC and almost killed myself pulling the bars way too hars in 3rd gear trying if the beast would wheelie. The bike also ran smoother than my 640 with the BST and had much more power at higher revs so if you're looking for a set up that will allow you to win drag races, the FCR is the answer.

    And in my view this is exactly the secret.
    FCRs are made for racing and going flat out whenever possible. They provide more power for the engine from the mid - up, while the BST with the popular mods provides a way snappier throttle response at lower revs and, although the engine does't run quite as smootly as with the FCR, it seems to give it an extra portion of torque at lower revs, which I personally love.
    Also, a BST carb doesn't provide as much power at the higher revs as an FCR.

    Okay - I know that a CV carb is not good for serious competition riding but most of us don't compete. When I started this thread I was trying to establish whether the FCR is worth the extra money. I think that after all those years I found the answer. I love the big bore engine torque and a good open exhaust, air intake mods and a properly jettec BST provide loads of it.
    The FCR is a carb is meant for racing and getting max power at the high revs in order to go quicker and achieve higher speeds faster.

    Again - it's just how I understand it.
  14. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2004
    Oddometer:
    14,324
    Location:
    Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
    Very reasonable losiu,

    and this will help anyone who is within reach of help; for others... :bert we can only hope their replies are entertaining!
  15. dnrobertson

    dnrobertson Big Bike, Slow Rider

    Joined:
    Jun 30, 2008
    Oddometer:
    966
    Location:
    Frankston, Australia
    To me, one of the BIG advantages of the FCR over the BST is the much improved throttle response as low speeds. The accelerator pump in the FCR allows much quicker throttle response than any BST!

    I agree that (with my bum of the pants testing), once the revs hit about 5000 rpm, the FCR equipped bike accelerates really well.

    I don't have my FCR tuned for max power, but more for fuel economy equal with the old BST. Last trip (using FCR) best was 23 km/litre (cruising at 100 kmh) worst was 18 km/l.

    A couple of years ago, I had the chance to run the BST equipped bike flat out for a long distance. Top speed for me and gear was 150km/h (GPS indicated). Recently, same road, same bike except with FCR 39. Top speed 163 km/h. I know not scientific at all.

    Would I ever go from my FCR 39mm to the BST? No!!
  16. losiu

    losiu wheelie addict

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2004
    Oddometer:
    579
    Location:
    POLAND
    Hey guys,

    Sorry - got no notification about new posts at all. I had no idea things were happening here.
    In my view the BST is snappier than the FCR at lower revs. The FCR makes it extra smooth and the BST makes the engine feel a little rough. With the popular BST mods it feels much snappier to me.

    I once had a Mikuni TM40 in y LC4 and it also felt smoother than with the BST. Hmm... maybe this is the main difference between CV carbs and pumper carbs.

    And then there is the AP on the pumper carbs. My adventure with the Husky's FCR37 started with a bog at low revs. the PO said "they always run like that". I thought it couldn't be right. After a little research I finally found the solution - The o-ring mod. The bike has proper throttle response and runs much better now. Interesting... especially that supposedly a lot of FCRs equipped bikes bog when the throttle is opened rapidly at low revs.
  17. gruesohm

    gruesohm n00b

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2012
    Oddometer:
    8
    SSSooooo....mhhmmm After reading through the whole thread and then reading Laramies' BST cleaning thread (and noticing that it was the last cleaning due to successful replacement with an FCR 39).... I am left wondering why some more specifics about jet selection and pictures of the process etcetera have not been posted. I have a BST on a 2,000 640 Adventure r. I love the old clunker and want to restore her. So I read the threads I printed out Laramies' excellent carby adventure. I even got a rebuild kit from the KTM dealer (why do I feel like I'm at a drug dealers?). PLUS I got a special 6 pack for the project. Well! A previous owner JB welded a breather hole closed after removing a part of the carburetor body:eek1. It also has a choke piston that turns around freely with a screw driver but does not budge in or out in the cylinder:cry...it looks as though the bottom of the threaded area for the shitty plastic nut may have been JB welded too:dog:dog. Now I have an unopened rebuild kit and a pretty dismal looking carby. If I order a replacement flatslide 640 specific kit it is very expensive. If I order a flatslide without a kit I have no idea where to begin with the tuning or fitment.:huh... I am going to order a new carburetor and return the rebuild kit. If anyone has any hands on experience with a Mikuni flatslide (what your jetting is and how you installed it I am all ears.:earOh and if by chance anyone wants some BST parts :1drinkthey are free.
  18. meat popsicle

    meat popsicle Ignostic

    Joined:
    Feb 9, 2004
    Oddometer:
    14,324
    Location:
    Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
    Creeper's setup thread at the top of the index should have most of the info you need to setup a BST. Creeper also has a setup thread for the FCR39 in the index somewhere. Otherwise you have to search for posts with setup tips in a plethora of threads because folks just seem to post shit wherever - so it gets lost... the Index thread probably has a ton of info, scattered about it.
  19. fastdadio

    fastdadio Still gettin faster

    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,861
    Location:
    Pinckney Mi.
    I would think that Sudco or James Dean Jetting could also give some pretty close starting points for jetting a flatside to the LC4. It's been done before.
  20. gunnerbuck

    gunnerbuck Island Hopper

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2005
    Oddometer:
    4,948
    Location:
    N.V.I, B.C.
    The jets from the BST will fit the TM 40 pumper and shouldn't be too far off... The actual squirt time of the AP may have to be fiddled with...
    Sent you a PM...