while i've got it apart... exhaust cleanup

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by datchew, Feb 14, 2007.

  1. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

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    I'm trying to shy away from the "while i've got it apart i may as well..." line of thinking.

    That being said, i'm gonna clean up the exhaust a bit which I think is stainless???

    I've been looking at this thread for tips:
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=187078

    Is there any CHEAP methods to help the process or prevent corrosion?

    By cheap, I mean <$50 or else i'll just use some cleaner and a green abrasive pad to polish the grime off.

    I'm not after pretty, i'm after longevity.
    #1
  2. RandyB

    RandyB .

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    Too late.:huh

    Try Noxon metal polish. Available at any good hardware store. That and elbow grease.
    #2
  3. RocketJ

    RocketJ Been here awhile

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    +1
    #3
  4. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

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    is the exhaust stainless steel?

    (89 r100gs)
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  5. RocketJ

    RocketJ Been here awhile

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    Good stuff too. At least the OEM part.:clap
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  6. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

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    anything i could splash around the inside of the collector and pipes?

    If it doesn't do anything beneficial, i won't bother, but just wondering if they get eaten up from the inside out or the other way around.

    Man, i have tremendous respect for the metal quality of this beast.
    #6
  7. Gezerbike

    Gezerbike Hey Rocky...........

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    Any brand name chrome cleaner or metal polish, like Flitz or Mother's Metal polish will clean these up pretty quick. I would only use steel wool in as a last ditch resort. Simoniz chrome cleaner worked real well on mine the last time I got around to cleaning it. Semichrome works really well but my favorite is Flitz if you can find it.
    #7
  8. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

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    okey doke. Will attack it soon and let you know.
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  9. Stagehand

    Stagehand Imperfectionist

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    werent german dwarves the first metallurgists? :lol3 :lol3



    Germans - They make good steel.
    #9
  10. Mugwest

    Mugwest .

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    Dat, i dunno about this 'stainless' business-- i thought the stock chromed GS exhaust stuff was just that-- chromed steel. May be/prolly am wrong, but regardless, the pipes see so much oil soot that i doubt corrosion-from-within is a huge issue, unless the bike gets submerged.

    That being said, a swab of Chem-Prime/OSPHO (trade names. It's phosphoric acid essentially) etc might be interesting inside the pipes (it'll etch chrome, paint etc). My only experience w/ perforated BMW pipes was on ancient stock RS pipes at the upkick-- where water would naturally collect. I suspect that was directly due to the pre-garage days when that classic had to sit outside in years of FL rain.
    #10
  11. Wirespokes

    Wirespokes Beemerholics Anonymous

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    The stock system is a combination of stainless and chromed steel, I believe. I do know the headers are chromed steel. And I think the collector is too. And I'm pretty sure the muffler is stainless. Most alloys of stainless are not magnetic and the 304 grade used on mc exhaust isn't. So check it out with a magnet.

    Don't use anything like steel wool on the headers - only chrome polish or something similar. Take your time. They're usually not that difficult to clean up.

    On the muffler (if it is stainless which I'm fairly certain it is) very fine steel wool will work to clean it up nicely. It will have very fine scratches that can be polished out to make a mirror finish, but will look nice without. Besides the compounds listed above, I've also used polishing and rubbing compound - fairly cheap stuff at any auto supply. I've also used stainless pots and pans cleaner you can find at the grocery store.
    #11
  12. Joerg

    Joerg Long timer

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    If you still have the original exhaust system on your bike, it's not made of stainless steel ... unless a PO has installed the stainless steel muffler of the post-1990 models.

    The downpipes and the collector box have always been manufactured from "ordinary" steel, no matter what model year. The muffler was from "ordinary" steel until late 1990 (=model 1991), and was replaced by stainless steel afterwards.
    #12
  13. nick_rhinocycles

    nick_rhinocycles Been here awhile

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    I have cleaned up a lot of metal parts on old Honda CB750s and have some things to add.

    If it is chrome, then Mothers or some other kind of metal polish used with VERY find stee wool (labelled like this: #0000) is fine to do.
    You will be amazed how much rust you can get off with this and some patient elbo grease.

    Do NOT use the green scrubby pads as they will scratch the heck out of any thing you put them to.

    After you polished up your chrome piece, WAX that puppy 5 times in a row. I am not kidding. Wax is great and will last a long time (don't listen to people who will complain about temp and whatnot, just do it).

    Same is true for stainless, except you don't have to worry about rust re-appearing after you just cleaned it up. This method of #0000 wool and polish works great for SS.

    For aluminum, using Steel Wool will embed the fibers in the aluminum and then it will rust! and corrode and look WORSE than when you started! BTDT.

    As far as taking care of the INSIDE of the pipe, the best thing you can do for you bike is to take it on a long enough ride so the pipes heat up fully. Most corrosion from the inside is from condensation that does not get burned off fully from short trips.

    If you were going to store it you could probably squirt some WD-40 in there, without too much harm!

    Good luck,
    --Nick
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  14. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    Be careful of the exhaust gaskets on the headers and muffler... I made the HUGE mistake of thinking changing these would be a good idea... then after 5 hours of fitting, swearing, sanding and cutting I got the stupid thing back together... serious PITA:deal
    #14
  15. darmahman

    darmahman "Illogically Deluded"

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    The stock exhaust system on my GS1000 had 53,000 miles on it when I bought it in Dec. It had baked on dirt and oil from the headers back thru the collector(totally covered) and even on the muffler (50 %). I spent 7 or 8 hours with chore girls and simple green and got it all removed. Looks almost new from the collector back and the header is a nice dark blue . Well worth the effort. Very high quality system.
    #15
  16. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

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    thanks all.

    I have some #000 steel wool or maybe it's #0000
    I'll give several methods a try in obscure locations before i get into it.

    One of the header rings (metal thing under the exhaust nuts) has a break in it. Is this a big deal when I put the exhaust back together or should I just squeeze it in there?
    #16
  17. RocketJ

    RocketJ Been here awhile

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    Are you talking break or not a complete circle?
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  18. Mugwest

    Mugwest .

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    Dat, item 12 (or it might be 13, can't remember the order just now) above is split intentionally. It's the compression ring, and it tightens as the finned nut is tightened.
    (also note that the order of assembly is bassackwards in the diagram-- the two tapered rings 12 and 13 obviously go between the finned nut and the head stub)
    #18
  19. Gezerbike

    Gezerbike Hey Rocky...........

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    I put in all new ones on my 95 when I had the exhaust off and they were not fun to install. Get everything to fit while it is still in pieces then install everything...makes the job much easier.
    #19
  20. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

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    :huh um.... uh... i'll have to look at it again.

    Also, I think there was only 1 ring under each exhaust nut. If there's supposed to be two, i guess another item for the list. I'll check again tonight.
    #20