Who made these handlebar risers? Help please to fix a problem.

Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by tkb, Nov 28, 2012.

  1. tkb

    tkb Mr. Britten's bike

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    The risers shown in the photos below came with the bike when I bought it used from a fellow rider some years ago.

    Can anyone ID the maker?

    My problem with the risers is no matter how much I tighten down the riser bolts I am able to still push the handlebars up or down if I press firmly on the hand grips. The risers just do not hold the handlebars securely enough.

    Anyone have a suggestion for a fix for the problem. I've considered adding electrical tape around the handlebars under the riser to see if that would improve the grip. Note in the photos below that there is space between the two riser pieces, so problem is not that handlebars are too small for the risers, they just do not hold the handlebars in place securely enough that the handlebars cannot be rotated in the risers.

    Machine is 2006 BMW R1200GS.

    Any info/suggestions appreciated.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #1
  2. James Bond

    James Bond Tight is best

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    Take a small centerpunch to the handlebars, go around in several loops around the bars under the supports and caps to the risers. This will knurl or increase the effective size of the bars and give the mounts some "tooth" to hang on to.
    #2
  3. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander Ride Far - Ride Fast

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    maybe use a dremmel and cut a few slots in both that won't show when they are mounted
    #3
  4. Tosh Togo

    Tosh Togo Long timer

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    What's the diameter of those bars at the clamping point?

    Are the bar clamps on backwards?...

    Take one of them off, and put it flat-side down against a level surface. If one side is a bit taller than the other, re-install the clamp with the longer side forward- insert both bolts, but tighten the one in front first. Then torque the one to the rear.

    Unless there's something truly weird going on, your handlebar clamp should work in the same manner that a front-axle pinch bolt/clamp does; ie- the longer side is bottomed first, and by tightening the other you'll be wrapping around/pinching the handlebar with the aluminum clamp.

    Done right, there will be zero gap on the longer leg, and a little bit of a gap on the shorter one.

    Like this- [​IMG]
    #4
  5. DSM8

    DSM8 Where fun goes to die....

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    IF there is no gap between the top ad bottom of the clamp you are not getting full clamping force on the bars (that is what is sounds like).

    Get a piece of glass and some sandpaper.

    Remove the top clamp and basically mill the face of it a little bit, until such time as you have enough of a gap to facilitate the clamping force to increase.

    Take you time you want the face to remain flat, hence the use of a glass plate to file them against.

    A large mill file would work as well but might take off too much material too fast.
    #5
  6. ragtoplvr

    ragtoplvr Long timer

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    cast clamps like that can break if over torqued

    Get some good blue loctite, the non removable without heat stuff. Put between the clamp and bar. Do not use on the threads, use red there.

    Problem solved.

    Rod
    #6
  7. Desert Skies

    Desert Skies One brick shy...

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    ^^ This.
    #7
  8. Dan Alexander

    Dan Alexander Ride Far - Ride Fast

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    He already said there was lots of space for clamping. You guys should try and read at least half the original post before commenting :wink:
    #8
  9. DSM8

    DSM8 Where fun goes to die....

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    Even though I read that I failed to see it.

    If that is the case then peening the surface of the bars under the caps would solve the problem. Roughen it up so to speak.

    Looking at the pictures it was hard to tell but it seemed like the clamps were bottomed out.
    #9
  10. Gompie

    Gompie Been here awhile

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    Pictures are not great but seems like a W (Wunderlich) on the riser. If this is like a 2010GS, and as as per post #4, loosen up the bolts and tighten the longer ones first. These longer ones are the only bolts that actually bolt the handle bar to the forks.There should be no spacing between clamps anywhere when you tighten these. Then tighten the shorter ones (reasonably as per torque settings..). You wil end up with spacing between the clamps on the shorter bolts, that's normal.
    #10
  11. Disco Dean

    Disco Dean Long timer

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    I would never suggest to cut, or pin/peening or roughen up your bars ever - I have never ever heard of such a thing. That action effectively reduces the surface area to have a good "purchase" on the bars. A factory knurl used to be standard on metal bars or chrome bars but I haven't seen that done - even on my kids BMX for 20 years.

    If the bars are slipping then something is wrong. Weakening the bars by adding stress points and cuts to the metal just sounds crazy - especially right at the most critically stressed point in the bars - where they mount to a rigid solid edge.

    First as noted - I would make sure the clamps are on the right way - they only go one way and are to be tightened only one way - one side first to torque then the other side to torque. IF they are swapped that would explain the issue.

    Then there might be some quality control on the clamps - ie. paint, raised surface, mold marks that are keeping the clamps from getting enough surface area down. Or the clamps just might be made in error.

    Just about the only thing noted that might help in a pinch would be the loctite but even then I would not trust that it would hold the bars.

    Bars are way to critical a piece to chance it in my mind.
    #11
  12. AviatorTroy

    AviatorTroy Long timer

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    The best shims for bars are aluminum, just like crush washers. Cut some shims from a beer can and wrap around the bars inside the clamps.
    #12
  13. tkb

    tkb Mr. Britten's bike

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    From your help I have confirmed that the risers are Wunderlich, and are installed improperly. I downloaded the installation PDF from the Wunderlich website and will venture forth armed with all this and all the good information/suggestion you all offered to attack the problem.

    Again, thanks to all of you for the kind assistance. Once again this is a great forum!
    #13
  14. MJS

    MJS Long timer

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    As Tosh posted above. On an 05 GS the clamps are asymmetrical. The top of the risers should be also. The front of the clamp is slightly higher than the rear. The forward bolt is to be fully torqued with no gap. then the rear bolt should be torqued.

    Looking at the pictures it appears there is a gap at the front bolt. You're not getting the full clamping force if you are trying to even out the gap between the front and rear of the clamp.
    #14
  15. GS Addict

    GS Addict Pepperfool

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    Are you sure the clamp bolts are not bottoming?
    #15
  16. tkb

    tkb Mr. Britten's bike

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    "As Tosh posted above. On an 05 GS the clamps are asymmetrical. The top of the risers should be also. The front of the clamp is slightly higher than the rear. The forward bolt is to be fully torqued with no gap. then the rear bolt should be torqued."

    This was the problem, riser were not properly installed--risers were installed by PO with same gap front and rear. I reinstalled the risers with the forward bolts torqued to no gap, and then torqued the rear bolts to 19 foot pounds as specified in the installation instructions I downloaded. Handlebars are now rock solid in the risers.

    Again, thanks!
    #16
  17. Disco Dean

    Disco Dean Long timer

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    And that is a happy ending. Most times it is something simple like that - Great.
    #17
  18. jsb223

    jsb223 ADV Rookie

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    Check this first...
    #18