Wireless Heat Trollers

Discussion in 'Equipment' started by max384, Oct 28, 2013.

  1. max384

    max384 Bandaided

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    I measured the voltage to be 12.6 volts. I'll remeasure in the morning. If the voltage drops, I'll remove the heat troller and then look for voltage drop again. That should tell me whether the new heat troller is to blame or if my problem lies elsewhere.
    #21
  2. levain

    levain STILL Jim Williams

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    Hmm. That's not how its designed to work. It's supposed to be on your jacket, so its only plugged in when you're using it. I'm thinking the controller thinks its running something since its plugged into the bike and that's why its draining your battery. An email to Mike at WnS will answer that.
    #22
  3. V-rock

    V-rock Been here awhile

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    Just got mine this week. Big difference from running the jacket and the gloves from a single controller.

    Old controller had 3 settings: 1-Not enough heat, 2-I'm burning and 3-Nuclear meltdown. Now I can have a little extra heat on the gloves and less on the jacket, and also can fine tune it for better comfort, it seems like it draws less current and heats faster (more efficient?)

    I have the newest version of the Dual Remote Heat-troller, it uses 2 AAA batteries and turns off after 30 minutes after no longer sensing the receiver to conserve batteries.

    The package is labeled under First Gear brand but says Designed and Manufactured by Warm & Safe Heated Gear, LLC next to it.
    #23
  4. max384

    max384 Bandaided

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    Voltage dropped to 12.3 volts overnight. Tonight I'll disconnect the troller and see if I'm still dropping voltage while the bike sits.

    Once I see if it is the troller that is draining my battery, I'll email him. If the troller is indeed behaving normally, I'll either have to put it on a relay or start keeping the receiver in my pocket.


    Thanks for all the help everyone.
    #24
  5. Offcamber

    Offcamber Long timer

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    Agreed, I'm pretty sure its not designed to work that way. One pigtail with a fuse inline, connected to the battery should be all that's connected to the bike....you get on, plug in one plug.....and set the temp...that's it. No need for a relay. An open circuit won't draw any power. I'm not sure what the issue is with keeping the receiver in the jacket. I don't even notice it when wearing the jacket and it has its own pocket.
    #25
  6. levain

    levain STILL Jim Williams

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    I guess you could continue doing what you're doing, but tap a switched circuit so it isn't getting any juice when the bike is off. I know what you mean about it living in the jacket, but I really only notice it when I'm off the bike using the liner as a light jacket.
    #26
  7. massrider

    massrider Been here awhile

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    As someone mentioned, if anyone has the old style 2032 coin battery version it is worth the $25 upgrade to the AAA style, I could never keep a steady heat with the old controller, the liner would go cold and then come back on by itself to full bake, several times I had to unplug the power to the liner to shut it off. I wasn't sure whether it was the receiver or the remote and even sending emails to W&S didn't get me an answer so I went ahead and did the remote upgrade and it fixed the problem.
    #27
  8. gixxersteph

    gixxersteph Been here awhile

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    Sure wish you had posted this a week ago. I just bought 3 lithium 2032 batteries. I am hoping they'll last a little longer than the usual watch batteries
    #28
  9. Offcamber

    Offcamber Long timer

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    I haven't had any issue with the coin battery....I have gotten 2 seasons out of the current one. :dunno

    I will add, mine is a powerlett controller...probably made in the same factory though.
    #29
  10. max384

    max384 Bandaided

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    Well... I've had quite a frustrating time with my bike and heated gear. The battery was still being run down, then my heated insoles quit working, then the heat troller quit working altogether! :eek1

    After a frustrating round or two of troubleshooting, I got it all figured out. First of all, my problems with the battery running down were because my battery is shot. Secondly, the reason that the receiver was drawing power was because the remote somehow became unsynced from the receiver. It was such a small amount of power that was being drawn that the battery should have been able to handle it. Also, the cold weather exacerbated my battery problem. Then, by dumb luck, the wire to my insoles quit working at the same time everything else was happening.

    My charging system is good, but the battery is definitely toast. I think I've decided to upgrade to a Ballistic lithium battery. My stock battery is 10 Ah/180 CCA. The lithium battery that I'll most likely be ordering is 20 Ah/400 CCA. I'm still not sure about lithium battery for the bike though...

    I synced the remote with the receiver, and I bought new wires for my gloves and insoles. Everything is good now... Except that my battery won't start the bike...
    #30
  11. max384

    max384 Bandaided

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    Another update: My remote kept getting unsynced from my receiver. Then they quit syncing altogether. Called Warm n Safe, and they're sending a replacement in the mail immediately. I'm bummed the first one was a dud, but their customer service has been top notch thus far.
    #31
  12. CSI

    CSI Long timer

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    Resurrecting a dead thread:

    I have a Warm-N-Safe wireless controller (labeled First Gear, but made by Wam-n-safe). A friend gave it to me a couple of years ago, so it has been sitting....I have no doubt the batteries in the remote are dead.

    Anyway....got a few questions:

    My plan is to mount the remote on the bike. Are they for the most part water resistant, or will I have to remove it every time it rains? I'd rather have it where I can reach it, as opposed to having to dig in my pocket every time I feel the need to make a temperature adjustment.

    Does the remote need to be paired to the actual controller every time one or the other loses power? I disconnect from the bike and walk away: Do I need to go thru the whole on-off-on-off watch the lights blink pair process every time I plug back in? How about if I disconnect AND shut the remote off?

    I have a dual zone wired controller I could use, but would rather keep that in reserve, as I am planning on the buying the o/l a heated jacket liner for Christmas...but if those wireless ones are more of a PITA than they are worth, I 'll just be a 2nd wired controller
    #32
  13. JR356

    JR356 Long timer

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    They are waterproof,you should not lose pairing and they are very reliable.
    Do replace the unit batteries before attenpting to use the setup.
    If needed there is a pairing process on the WnS website,or on their YouTube videos.

    JR356
    #33
  14. CSI

    CSI Long timer

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    Is it correct for me to assume that there is some sort of battery in the controller unit itself? (Not the remote, but the other component). Seems to me there would have to be some sort of power in there for the remote to "sync" to prior to plugging in to main power.
    #34
  15. bluestar

    bluestar the rain maker

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    No battery in that part that I can tell. If there is, it's not replaceable.
    #35
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  16. JR356

    JR356 Long timer

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    Harness from controller goes to jacket connections and has power lead that must be connected to bike power by one of several methods.

    All the WarmnSafe videos,should answer most of your questions.
    https://m.youtube.com/user/Warmnsafe?feature=watch


    JR356
    #36
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  17. davidji

    davidji bike curious

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    It doesn't communicate prior to getting plugged in.

    The wireless W&S setup I used would go to 1/3 heat when powered on. If I didn't want that heat, I'd turn the remote's power knobs on and off at startup. A minor inconvenience compared to a wired controller.

    Mostly I've just used a wired controller, in a holster clipped to a pocket.

    When I've used wireless it was mounted to me as well, and that was less convenient than using a wired unit. Wireless mounted to the bike might be great, but then you need a remote unit for each bike (paired to the same controller?), or need to move the remote around.
    #37
  18. Yossarian™

    Yossarian™ Deputy Cultural Attaché

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    I attached my WnS dual remote controller to a RAM base with some outdoor-type 3M dual lock. I just move the remote from bike to bike as needed; it takes about 30 seconds.
    #38
  19. appliance57

    appliance57 Long timer

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    Use the lanyard - as good as that stuff is, it lets go sometimes. I know - let my pain be your gain.
    #39
  20. appliance57

    appliance57 Long timer

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    One thing to note is that even without the controller, a plugged in liner will deliver about 30% of it's warming power. Takes a little of the fear factor out if your controller battery dies, or it flies off your bike on the highway because you didn't use the effing lanyard.
    #40