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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by lacrestadr, Oct 29, 2005.
What wire do I "tap" to install hand warmers for the 640 ADV and do I need to install a fuse? Thanks
i ran a power lead from the battery with a fuse right at the battery to a relay up front. then all accessories are wired from that out. gps, road book, grip warmers, heated vest, radio, etc... added a bunch of switches to the dash to accomodate all the added gear.
I just did my XR day before yesterday. I also went from battery with a inline fuse to the switch. My main reason was if the grips shorted out I didnt want it to affect what ever I tapped from, ie no headlight or whatever. But I do suggest you get a lighted switch for the grips to help remind you to turn them off.
that'll werk... but why not a relay through the ignition switch? then there's never a chance of missing the light.
That would work also. Only reason I didnt do that was I didnt think about it. honest aint I?
A auto electrician mate mounted a switch in the dash ah la loaded's (except mine is a toggle with a label for on/off), via a relay from the back of the ACC socket on the dash, this also runs my GPS/Pocket PC, and is fused, we shorted it to double check.
We had already used the power from the horn to upgrade the lights to run both hi/lo when high is on, that would be another source you could use.
i added an acc socket when i added the relay. so it is tied into the same setup.
1) run a power lead from the battery forward. make sure to mount a fuse as close to the battery as you can. that way if it breaks anywhere along its length it'll take out the fuse rather than melting the wire.
2) install a standard 15amp automotive relay up front somewhere. **what's a relay?**.
2b) ok now you've gone down below and know how a relay works i'll help you out a little with this a, b, c shit... on almost all (all good ones) relays there is a standard in terminal naming... terminals 87 and 87a are the high current power outs. 87 is the one that is switched 87a is the one you can tape up. terminal 30 is the terminal you want connected to your battery and fused wire. 85 and 86 are the low current electro magnet. piece of cake....
3) connect the fused battery lead to terminal 30 on your relay. leave the fuse out until you're done wiring the whole thing.
4) connect a wire from 87 on your relay to one lead on each grip heater. you're also going to want a toggle switch in this line to turn the heaters on and off. if you really want to get fancy you can put an on-off-on toggle with a resistor in one wire to give you a high and low heat option.
5) connect the other lead(s) of grip heaters to a good chasis ground. some guys will tell you to put your grip heater switch here. don't! if there is a failure in the element, or anything upstream you could have bad things happen.
6) connect a lead from terminal 86 on your relay to the good chassis ground.
7) here's the fun part. you need to find a switched +12v power source to flip the electromagnet on and off when you turn the key. you're going to need a multimeter for this job, or someone who has done it and can point you to an exact wire (i'll go find one later if nobody else bucks up). what you need is a wire that is hot when your ignition switch is on, and dead when the switch is off. once you get that wire hook it up to the 85 terminal on your relay.
pop a small fuse in the fuse block to test everything (like a 1 amp), then once you're sure everything works well pop in the size to match the wire and relay (prolly a 15 amp).
if you ever need power for any other acessories you can jump off the lead hooked to terminal 87. no need to fuse anything beyond that point because you already have a fuse back by your battery.
**what's a relay?** - a relay is a switch that transfers high amounts of current on one side and is controlled by a low current on the other. when the low current side is energized it activates and electromagnet that pulls in the high current side. in the diagram below v1 and v2 are the low current side. the "common terminal "c" is where you want to put the lead from your battery. it's hot all the time... terminal "a" is hot any time your v1 and v2 are not energized (tape that guy up... you don't need it right now). terminal "b" is your switched high current power to run whatever you're powering.
Thanks for the great instructions loaded!! The heaters came with the hi/lo switch so I'm set there. Can the horn or headlight be my switched lead? Thanks again for the help!
your headlight low beam is on all the time the ignition is on so it would be a good one... horn would work too if you get in on the hot side of the switch... just make sure the horn doesn't work when the ignition is off.
'02 Adventure. Using the horn for a hot. It is off with ignition off. No relay. No fuse. Horn circuit is fused. No issues (except one grip is hotter than the other).
5 K miles experience.
Just got done with a 30-40 degree F. hell ride(Lake Superior) with the grips on high burn all the way. Warm hands even wet in a steady rain. Ran my heated vest too. Believe both consumers are 35 watts each for total of 70 watts. Battery voltage upon shutting down after 4-5 hours of riding was 12.05V initial, 12.02V after 4 hours. Not exactly good news since that reflects about a 30% charge on the battery. My drive-in basement is 63 degrees. The bike started easily after 5 hours without use, using full choke. Grips and vest off.
Bill in Tomahawk, WI.
Relay in and hand warmers work, no fires and no cussing Went with the relay and the brown wire coming out of the horn for the switched wire. One grip is quite a bit warmer than the other, don't have a clue about that Drilled a whole under the speedo and installed the high/low, on/off switch. Anybody know what the two open white plugs up under the speedo are for??? I'm doing the valves next, yep that's what I'm doing :huh
good to hear mate... doing things right takes a little longer, but is best in the end. and now you have a load of power up front for other stuff!
your left grip is colder (you didn't say left but i think i know) because you didn't insulate the heater from the bars. there is a plastic throttle tube on the right to insulate... and the left you should tape with insulating tape like so:
if you have the grips on already no panic. once warm'd up they will even out. if the grips are not on i would take the left off again and tape it up with electricians insulating tape (a few good layers like 2mm of electrical tape will be ok if you don't have insulating tape). then if the glue is not sticky just tape them tight with electrical tape and a little contact cement.
oh yeah... the white plugs? one is for the tripmaster switch ktm doesn't include factory anymore. it can be ordered through the hard parts catalog to control your imo. if you look at the pics above of my bars you can see it beside the turn signal button.
cant remember what the other one is for, but i think it's something to do with the optional roadbook shit.
You're right, the right grip is hotter. I did put a layer of electrical tape under the left. I also put some of that expandable insulation foam in the bar end on the left side, I guess I should've put two or three tape layers on??
The grip install instructions say to glue the grips on. Should I Wire them instead? Seems like you would rip everything out if you needed to take them off at a later date, if they're glued :huh
Thanks again for the great help
you're prolly right about glue vs wire. i glue mine on. if they are destroyed when i change the grips (a couple years down the road) i'll replace them. they are half the price of new grips so i'm not overly concerned about 'em. plus... the wires will probably get a little nick (meaning the warmers get replaced) or cut before the grips are done anyway.
Just be real careful about how you tuck the pigtail of the wire after you snip it off. If you tuck it in (normal style) and it pokes through the thin mylar coating on the grips, you will get some smokin hot safety wire.
I adopted a different approach. Had a short piece of undersized electrical conduit bored out ever so slightly, slammed it onto the handlebar with a rubber mallet (tight as all get out, which is what you want) then used a throttle side handgrip (it's thinner then the standard LHS grip) to match the thickness of the RHS, this provides the same insulation to the LHS as on the RHS and leads to equal "grip heating". Both LHS and RHS grips are safety wired to the bar.
hey.... you're a fart smeller.
I just installed mine. I replaced the tank with an ims and used one of the old tank bolts for a ground since it wasn't used with the new tank. I tapped the license plate light for power. Pretty simple install