Wrenching on my R80 G/S, an ongoing therapy

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by One Less Harley, Feb 1, 2010.

  1. One Less Harley

    One Less Harley OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT

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    I had recently purchased a set of hid lights from Trail Tech and was less than impressed w/ them, both quit working in a VERY short time.


    So I looked into another option- ended up going for the Vision X LED(same as the Denali lights) lights w/ the Euro lens, which is between a spot and flood light (wish there was spot light version). The light output is very good, very white light and very brite. The light pattern fills in up close the empty spots in the stock high beam lighting, but don't reach out any further than the stock H4 (65w high). There is no beam pattern to the light and I assume glare in rain or fog would be extreme and probably excessive.

    Construction of the lights are top notch, very nice and heavy cast aluminum. The light mount very solidly to the mounts and other lights can be mounted together by means of a very nice aluminum block. Stainless bolts and u shape bracket. The wiring harness has a very nice water proof pig tail.

    I also used a Piaa wiring harness ( which I already had) Piaa mounting bracket to attach to the crash bars, this swivels for differing mount locations. The lights are switched (on/off) with the high beam only.

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    PIAA Mount

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    #41
  2. bmwblake

    bmwblake upside down parker

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    there is a spot version though their page admittedly says flood and spot in various places on that page.

    i'm waiting for some night shots with the lights on.


    #42
  3. One Less Harley

    One Less Harley OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT

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    Blake , I called them and they had a spot lense available, $7 each. I ordered a set.
    #43
  4. One Less Harley

    One Less Harley OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT

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    #44
  5. One Less Harley

    One Less Harley OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT

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    Replacing final drive bearings on a R80 G/S.​



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    BMW Part #’s​


    5) p/n 33121241938 shaft seal (85X110X10)​


    4) p/n 33121242210 out put ball bearing (85X120X18)​


    2) p/n 33121241682 needle bearing dive bearing (35X50X20)​


    13) p/n 33112311097 gasket​


    p/n 07119906328 (two) brake pivot o-rings​


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    Fig 1



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    Fig 2​


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    Fig 3​



    First clean mud (this is a G/S) from final drive, rear wheel and mono lever. Loosen three nuts holding rear wheel and back off adjusting rod to the brakes, then remove wheel. Remove brake shoes and just to make things easier keep springs on shoes, also remove circlip (#18). Put these in a safe spot along with other parts, which will be removed later. It's helpful to put parts in relative location for ease or reassembly.

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    Fig 4​

    Remove drain plug (#9) for drain final drive. At this time clean off the drain plug magnet. Now clean the inner part of the final drive with brake cleaner and a small brush. Remove the brake rod adjuster (wing nut). For the brake arm, make a scribe mark on the brake arm pivot pin where the arm is split. This will aide in relocating the arm and pivot pin on reassembly. Remove pinch bolt and pointer. Then tap the brake cam out towards the left side of the bike (while sitting on the bike) again make sure to keep parts grouped together so no to mix them up later.
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    Fig 5


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    Fig 6

    Final drive cover removal-The remove the 8 final drive cover bolts and wave washers in Fig 5, and then insert two 5x30mm bolts as pictured in Fig 6. Then heat up the housing cover around the perimeter of the oil seal with a heat gun, this is to make removing the cover easier as the out put bearing is press fit into the cover.
    Tighten each of the 5x30 mm bolts, equal amounts, don't over tighten one side over the other, as you want to pull the housing cover off square and not angled. The bolts will be tightened down almost to their full length before the cover is released from brake pivot tube (fig1, #25). Make sure to keep one hand on the cover at all times to catch it when the bearing is released.
    In order to remove the large roller bearing (fig 1, #4) from the outer cover screw in the tap lightly with a copper hammer around the perimeter of the flat ring gear surface (Fig 6) until the cover is free of the ring gear and bearing. Once free remove the cover and ring gear from final drive. Again make sure to hold onto the cover and be careful not to damage the spacers inside the outer cover.



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    Fig 7​


    Be careful as the driven bearing has a shim (Fig 7) for the ring gear. It is a brass like ring, DO NOT BEND OR LOOSE THIS. Best and safest place for it is in it's current location.

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    Fig 8​

    Seal removal-Look inside the cover plate and be careful not to loose or bend the shims (fig 8) for the out put bearing. Remove shims and store in a safe place. Clean the cover in mineral spirits and scrape gasket, leaving the flange clean. Note that seal (Fig 1 #5) protrudes slightly from the face of the cover; make a mental note of the amount. Then remove the large seal with a hammer and punch. Once removed clean and oil the sealing surface.
    Put cover gasket side down on a flat clean surface and lightly oil outside edge of seal,
    put it in place on outer cover and around the circumference GENLTY tap new seal in place. DO NOT force, the key is to work it slowly, as not to bend the seal. Keep tapping seal until the amount of protrusion is the same as noted earlier and equal all the way around.

    [​IMG] Fig 9




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    Fig 10


    Out put bearing removal- Note I don't have the appropriate three jaw bearing puller for this so be patient on this. Heat the inner race with a heat gun, then with a set of chisels work on hammering the race off. Work the chisels at 180 degrees of each other, then at 90 degrees. Keep tapping the chisels in place working them opposite of each other, you may have to get larger chisels or add metal shims next to the ring gear (Fig 10) as the spacing between the race and ring gear gets larger. Be very careful not to mar the ring gear surface. Don't do this on concrete, or where you may drop the gear as it might be damaged. Removal will take time but it will come loose. [​IMG]


    Fig 11





    To remove the inner driven bearing race (Fig 1#2) on the ring gear a dremel tool and small cutoff wheel works very easily. See small cut in Fig11. Just make sure not to cut completely though bearing race, as you don't want to damage the ring gear surface. Proceed slowly in cutting but stop when almost through the shell. Then tap the cut with a chisel and the race will spring open for easy removal. Save the inner race for reinstallation of the new race. Clean ring gear thoroughly.

    Remove the brass shim and protector plate from the drive housing (Fig 7).​



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    Fig 12 Note small hole in bearing shell



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    Fig 13

    I found it easier to remove the needle bearings and cage first, and make note of the small hole in the outer race. Use an inner bearing removal tool to remove outer race of the driven bearing (Fig 13), which is inside the housing. Remove any remaining gasket and sealant with a scraper (be careful not to mare the sealing surface) and solvent. Wipe down and clean inner housing of all oil, also inspect gears for wear.


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    Fig 14




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    Fig 15


    Chill ring gear in freezer and with a heat gun heat the inner race of the driven bearing. Lightly oil the surface of the ring gear. Tap race into position, and use the old cut race (fig 11) to tap it completely home as in Fig 15. Make sure the race is seated completely on the ring gear flange.

    Take note of the hole in the bearing race and line up as in Fig 12. Use bearing driver tool pictured in Fig 14 to install outer race and needle bearings in the final drive housing. Use appropriate size tool that rest on the outer race, as you don't want to damage the needle bearings or cage. Install protector plate (Fig 7), Lightly oil brass shim and place in position.

    It is best to use a hydraulic press here, because if the bearing isn't seated fully the end play will not be adjusted correctly. Place ring gear in freezer and heat the output bearing (Fig 1 #4) with a heat gun, lightly oil ring gear surface, then press bearing into place. Make sure it is fully seated.

    Now all the hard things are done, the rest is easy!!!!!

    Lightly oil ring gear where it contacts the outer cover seal. Place ring gear in housing make sure that the driven gear bushing (fig 7) is in the correct location. You don't want to damage it. Put a light coat of Yamabond (Harley Davidson High-performance grey or Permatex #2 works well too) to both sides of outer cover gasket (fig 2 #13). Place gasket in housing, put cover in place and tighten cover bolts slowly and evenly tightening alternating bolts (make sure to rotate the ring gear as the gear teeth need to mesh tot he pinion gear and not get press on two gears, teeth need to slide past each other) until cover bottoms out, torque bolts to 13 ft.-lbs.

    Oil and replace two rear brake cam pivot o-rings, install brake lever arm making sure that the split section of the arm lines up with the scribe mark made earlier. Don’t forget the pointer, which goes between the socket head bolt and arm.
    Install circlip (fig 2 #7) onto the left brake pin. With an clean cloth wipe brake shoes and sand with sand paper (100 grit works fine), just enough to scratch off the surface. Then install springs to the shoes then shoes to the final drive. Install rear brake arm. Replace wheel and torque three lug nuts to 62 ft.-lbs. Then adjust rear brake rod so rear pedal travel is 25mm.
    Fill final drive with 350cc GL5 SAE 80w/90. Now take your G/S for a test ride and double check your work, checking brakes for adjustment, listening for any noises and or vibrations. You might want to check after 20-30 miles the final drive for leaks, just in case.
    #45
  6. One Less Harley

    One Less Harley OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT

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    I scored a good price on a stainless Laser Produro muffler for a R100GS. I took a chance that it would fit a G/S, luckily it does. The only difference is that the muffler has two top mounting tabs. The back front one lines up perfectly, while there is nothing for the rear. I'll make a tab for it.

    The muffler had the name brand label riveted on upside down, no big deal, just hit it with a wire brush. probably do something with it latter on.

    1st on the agenda for making it fit is to make another muffler guard out of 3/8 metal rod and flat stock. here it is after two short nights of bending and welding. The 1st night the flat stock was bent and drilled the lower mount, then on the second night 3/8" rod was bent, cut and welded to the lower mount.

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    Stay tuned for more....

    BTW- the muffler is more subdued than the Sito, w/ a little more pop from the cylinders at idle. I could drill the baffle holes larger, but am worried about making it too loud and not being able to go back.
    #46
  7. mark1305

    mark1305 Old Enough To Know Better

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    Cool! I think I saw that same muffler in a thread on here somewhere and commented that if I hadn't already scored the Staintune for my ST I would be all over it just to try it out. Or I may have seen it on the Yahoo R80 ST group - can't recall. But it looks good!.
    #47
  8. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

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    It's amazing how much your final drive resembles the /2 units. Very very similar. The whole thing can be taken apart with a heat gun and a couple basic tools.
    #48
  9. One Less Harley

    One Less Harley OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT

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    It maybe a little harder w/o specialty tools, but can be done. The hardest part was removing the big ring gear bearing, then making the my cheap inside bearing puller fit the race inside the housing.

    /2 is looking good.
    #49
  10. datchew

    datchew Don't buy from Brad

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    Thanks mayne. Do you need the puller to get that big bearing out or would heat make it drop like the older models? I'm curious on this part because when the /2 is done, I'll be doing at least a full teardown, inspect, assemble type job on the GS and I suspect new seals for the final drive will be part of it.
    #50
  11. One Less Harley

    One Less Harley OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT

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    chewy- It takes a bit with chisels. I did use a heat gun, but worked the perimeter with lager chisels as the bearing slid off more. I'm sure it'd be easier with the right puller, it will need some narrow jaws. I'm sure some people would cringe at the way I removed the big motha...

    Possibly I didn't heat it enough. I've seen Gunter Wurst, use a gas grill to heat up a tranny and flop it over and low and behold all the gears dropped out.......

    Ok, back to your regularly scheduled program..

    Did more finish work on the guard, completely welded the four rods together at the top back of the guard, just below the saddle bag mount. Can't see how it's finished. Aslo welded a mounting tab for the muffler. Welded a nut on the back side of the tab, then a stainless button head bolt to attach it..

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    Also made a mounting tab for the rear of the muffler, just bar stock w/ two nuts tack welded on it. You can see where the muffler name plate is, it was upside down so hit it w/ a wire brush remove the lettering.

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    Next project to finish welds w/ a sander then satin black powder coat.
    #51
  12. One Less Harley

    One Less Harley OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT

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    The guard has been powder coated and is done.

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    Rear bracket painted too.

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    #52
  13. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

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    alright I'll be the first to ask, what's it sound like?:ear
    #53
  14. One Less Harley

    One Less Harley OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT

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    Similar to the Sito, but more subdued, and has a little popping when coming off the throttle. I kind of prefer the Sito sound, but it isn't stainless.
    Didn't like the shinny stainless at 1st, as the black looks more suited to the G/S, but I'm over that now.

    Wanna buy a Sito, gotta sell to pay for the GS front end. Sold a bicycle wheel and a nice R100GS tank almost paid for the fork......almost.
    #54
  15. One Less Harley

    One Less Harley OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT

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    Latest update for the G/S and new front end from a 1992 R100GS. Some misc ramblings about the conversion can be found here.

    (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=13889111#post13889111)

    Got the R100GS forks, rotor (No GOOD), front wheel today, plus the Race Tech Emulators (FEGV S3802), only need one the other is for sale in the Old School flea market section.

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    Moto Bins supplied wheel bearings, head set bearings, and some brake parts.

    The rotor wasn't any good, no need to measure it, so one was ordered from The Beemer Shop, plus the fork dust sliders.

    Unfortunately I was off from work today, so the fork tubes were pulled apart and cleaned, new seals installed, the right fork got the emulator, and headset bearings greased and installed.

    I won't go into details about the forks or emulator as Infracaninophile has a great writeup on it.
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=431153&page=36

    The front wheel was sent to Woody's Wheel Works a regular contributor here. Where the hub will be bead blasted and sealed, a new Excell 21x1.85 tube rim laced with stainless spokes and trued. Maybe three weeks till I see that.

    Still waiting on the Harrison Mini 6 caliper. Looking forward to seeing it and posting pictures.
    #55
  16. One Less Harley

    One Less Harley OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT

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    Things are going a little slow on the front end conversion, been waiting on parts still. I did get a left 4 pot caliper ( 'bout $40 for the Brembo and yeah I'll be using the Harrison 6 pot, but just have to try it.) from a 1995 R1100GS ( I believe any R1100 or K1100 will work). As mentioned the mounting hole spacing is the same, but metal will need to be removed from the caliper tabs.

    Here's a nice writeup- http://www.airheads.org/content/view/275/98/
    Or my writeup (here)

    Here the caliper is mounted to the right fork, no machining yet.

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    I've spoke w/ Woody's Wheel works and the wheel shipped out today.

    The Harrison Caliper was shipped yesterday.

    New brake rotor will probably ship today.

    So hopefully all the parts will be here by next weekend!!

    Took some measurements of the pad area for the Four pot Brembo (approx 8.12 sq in of pad material)
    The harrison Mini Six has 15 sq in of pad material

    #56
  17. One Less Harley

    One Less Harley OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT

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    More eye candy, the Harrison Billet 6 arrived Saturday while I was sailing in Tennessee, great weekend for a little hull flying on Sunday.....You guys don't want to hear about that.

    Good looking chunk of aluminum...

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    Not quite plug and play, as another type brake line will be needed, but no reason to use the OEM brake line. One end of the brake line needs a banjo type fitting and the other end needs to be compatible w/ the MC, be that a thread in or banjo fitting.
    #57
  18. One Less Harley

    One Less Harley OH.THAT'S GONNA HURT

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    Recieved the Excell Rim today from Woody's Wheel works. The double butted spokes are huge.I don't think I'll have to worry about the rims holding up.

    Note- the hub is a R100GS hub. The spokes are flared extra large to go into the hub where the GS hub had nipples and a flare at the rim. The Excel rim I wanted was the same style as the Akront, nipples on the rim. Nice looking rim which is polished and clear coated.

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    Now I just need the new EBC rotor to show up from Ted Porter. It's due Friday.
    #58
  19. bgoodsoil

    bgoodsoil Dare to be Stupid

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    nice wheel. I want a Talon rim too but I won't be able to afford that for a long time.
    #59
  20. Airhead Wrangler

    Airhead Wrangler Long timer

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    Back in Seattle, FINALLY
    Looking goooood. :thumb
    #60