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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by One Less Harley, Feb 1, 2010.
I'm an idiot!!! :huh
I was thinkning about Race Tech gold valves.. please ignore my post above!
not to worry- having the two share a name makes this kind of confusion almost impossible to avoid.
Had to order push rod seals for the right side of the bike...damn it. did them not too long ago and one is split, pissin' oil down the oil pan. Got confirmation from UPS that Max is sending them out. Should have them Friday. Just did them 12,000 miles ago (2 years ago)..... Hum I need to ride it more!!! Well the DRZ got 9,000 of those miles last year so that's about 21,000 miles riding in two years.
Guess since the neutreal switch is cured something had to go.......Get the push rods sealed then what the FD...oh wait it a monolever.....
Careful Richard, that's all I was doing before it turned into reconditioning the heads I didn't mind the oil leak.
Valves, rings and such were done 20K ago....so I'm not even gonna pull the piston out. Only doing the offending side. A little seepage would be ok, but this is to much.
Not in a rush here took about 1 1/2 hours to do one side, but just taking my time.
dont forget the circlip. Just saying.
just found this thread... thanks for sharing
Nice read and advice
$5000? That poor lamb!
Realized I didn't have any after pictures of the old girl, so here it is w/o the big HPN tank all purtied up with the stock little tank and coffin windscreen.
Skinny w/ big jugs...what's not to like.........
Hi One Less,
Bike looks great. As I said, pretty much a twin of mine - down the the K60 scouts!
I would love your thoughts on my engine noise thread if you have a minute.
With the GS front end which is something like 2 inches longer than the G/S, the bike has been leaned over too much. A ST side stand was obtained from Hardwaregirl. Surprisingly it's the same length as the G/S.
So 2 inches were added to the end along with another larger and gusseted fork. There is an extra hole added to the gusset. This is just in case the springs break or get knocked off and allow a nice point to tie the thing up.
Been installing the HH Race tech forks (info on forks), and need to relocate the turn signals as the fork caps won't hold the turn signal mounts, so I purchased brackets from Memphis Shades (ebay had best price) and turn signals from China which are supposed to fit the F650 again from ebay.
The bracket worked perfect, but I had to make a small backer plate. One bad thing about the bracket is the mounting screws are SAE.
Volt meter mounted w/ angle bracket.
Kind of lost a float bowl on the TAT.
so made the carb leashes...
More info on leashes here.
Info on the Final Drive Breather hose (here).
I use a ty-rap to zip the leashes to the shackle. Have seen some guys losing the shackle it self with the float bowl hanging on the leash.
Currently working on getting a spare set of wheels. I've located and purchased a rear wheel from Germany. There were three available, but only two were worth consideration. One had a very nice looking brake surface but appeared to have a slight grove, another was a little rusty and looked questionable. Then there was this one.
The brake surface had been sanded some, but no apparent groves in photo. The drum currently on the bike is worn, and most likely excessively.
Plus I needed a front hub from a R100GS. I figured finding a hub only would prove difficult. Placed a few want adds and called around, found three, an individual ($150), Recycle ($206) and Woody's Wheel Works ($350 refurbished). I purchased the one from the individual, but it will need to be bead blasted then laced to a tube type Excel rim. Just like what was done before by Woody's Wheel Works. One BAD ASS WHEEL. This is what it will look like.
Since I have the GS front, and wanted to run a tube type rim, more mentioned on that in earlier post on this thread. It will be nice to have a two sets of wheels with road tires and off road tires!! No problems pulling the rotor off the front wheel with the wheel change. Reason not to run different rotors is so the brakes won't need to bead in. Not an option w/ the rear wheel set up though.