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Discussion in 'Hacks' started by DRONE, Apr 26, 2011.
At least I can count on Boxertwin!
Oooh-ooh! There it is!
Davebig chastised me a few months back for turning my nose up at a 33/11 with 22,000 miles for $375. But I didn't want to spend the money just to bump up from a 2.82 to a 3.0. I think he musta felt bad about that because he PM'ed me a couple of weeks ago and put me onto a 34/11 for $315 with only 18,000 miles.
So this 3.09 arrived today from a fellow inmate in Tennessee. Just spinning it in my hands, it feels smooth as silk with no play at all. I think I got a good one!! Not as low as Cob's 3.36 (37/11) but those things just don't show up too often on the used market.
Thanks, DB!! I owe you one!!
Wait till you get it installed before thanking me but I think you'll enjoy it with our adv transmissions 1st and 6th are lower than the standard 1150gs and I think a 3.36 would be too low for the occasional interstate flight, I live out next too the great prairie and can never decide how to cross the Dakota's.DB
Do you have it installed yet ? Don't make come over there to get you on the right track !!!!!!
I could go to Duluth MN get you an Aerostich jacket so you can go riding and test it !!!!
I'm doing some electrical work on the rig right now, Dave, and took the opportunity to send out the rear Ohlins to get it rebuilt and resprung. Once I get the rig rolling again, I'm gonna have Alex at South Sound BMW do the wrenching on the Final Drive.
I actually have Square4 to thank for that. He sent me detailed instructions on how to do it, with links to pics and other how-to's. I read through it all and decided that changing out the FD is beyond my wrenching limit.
My kind of instructions--
"A good man always knows his limitations." -Dirty Harry, 1973
"A good man always knows his limitations." -Dirty Harry, 1973 [/QUOTE]
Its not difficult but is a pain and requires a heat gun or propane torch and a couple of large allen wrenches one has to make and a 150 lbs + torque wrench and it's easy if you have 3 arms, and enjoy working on your knees ( I don't have a lift)
What are you doing wiring wise ? No soldering just good crimps.DB
As you are planning on changing out your final drive soon, this might be as good a time as any to change from the frail needle bearings that BMW used on these bikes to what many believe is a better solution. Tom Cutter at Rubber Chicken Racing and I think Claude Stanley sell a replacement bronze bushing and steel race that are much stronger than the OEM bearing used for this application. Just a thought...
I've got a pair of them some place I think I got them from Ted Porters Beemer shop, I think I'll try them when I install the 34/11 I just bought off fleabay,cold winter days and fleabay aren't good for my budget.DB
I look at the Oilheads thread once a week or so, but never heard of these. I used Rubber Chicken's cam chain tensioner on my bike and was very very impressed with the quality of that product. Really no comparison to the tensioner that came off the bike. Here's a pic from RC Racing's website--
And here's some of their sales pitch--
"To my knowledge a roller bearing is designed to roll not rock back and forth, wearing a groove in the race and a flat on the roller. My Bushings are a direct replacement made from 660 Oilite Bronze that is oil impregnated and self lubricating, matched to a Timken Bearing race. They provide a much larger contact surface than the rollers since the full face of the bushing contacts the race. I have developed and tested these for three years in my GS with great success, the present set has 15k miles with no measurable wear. . . . The best feature about them, besides the reliability, is the ease of refitting the Paralever assembly after any servicing. On the road this could prevent a trip-stopping failure of the OEM tapered needle bearings."
I actually had my pivot bearings replaced about 8000 miles ago, but since I knew not about these things, I put in the BMW parts. But, most of the cost is the labor, so since the Rubber Chicken parts only cost $125 and promise to give me many more trouble free miles than the OEM, I'm gonna go ahead and get some since I'm gonna have the FD off the bike anyway.
Sir Stroker, thank you for the heads up!
If you, or any other good readers of this thread, look back at the early pages, it's easy to see what's there, and harder to see what's not there. One of the things not there is a picture of my FZ-1 Fuzeblock and the connections to my various accessories. The reason for not posting a pic is, of course, it's a terrible rat's nest of wires and I foolishly placed the FZ-1 where I need to remove the gas tank to change a fuse! Stupid!!
So I'm moving the FZ-1 to the area above the airbox cover which means it's accessible by simply removing the saddle. At the same time I'm trying to turn the rat's nest into something that more closely resembles say a wolf den, or a beaver dam. A beaver dam would be appropriate since I've used several products from Eastern Beaver to tame my tangles. Here's the way I WISH my FZ-1 looked--
I thought about buying a PDM-60 which is infinitely cooler than the FZ-1, but for $150 it seemed like a bit of a splurge seeing as how I already had the FZ-1. What I like about the FZ-1, is I can have switched and unswitched circuits powered by the fuse block, no relay needed, and can change any circuit at any time form switched to unswitched. But if I was just starting out on farkling my bike, I'd definitely start with a PDM-60. If you don't know about it, follow the link. Basically, it's a fuse block without fuses. Instead, it has circuit breakers that automatically reset every time you cycle the ignition on and off. Very cool advancement in bike techno.
Anyway, I've finished the job of relocating the FZ-1, but I discovered some other little noogling things I want to change around. The rat's nest is somewhat improved, but it's still not a real clean install. Probably won't see any pics of it here even when it's all done.
I have used Blue Sea marine fuse blocks but I must admit that FZ-1 is very nice, I have a fuse block in the chair trunk and the battery(auto Optima) on the sidecar frame, welding cables to bmw cables and piaa fuses and relays where battery used to reside.I have cleaned up the rats nest but am at a loose as to how and proceed, I don't like the idea of carving up the piaa wiring harness's and adding another fuse box so it may have to stay as is but I'm running larger wire size from chair fuse box to battery for future improvements.I need to sit down with my welding buddy whose actually a electrical tech and used to make a living fixing high end mfg welding equipment and come up with a plan.DB
Will you post some pictures of your wiring, both on the bike and chair, please?
You going to add a fuze block or PDM60 or whatever to your chair to handle your accessory sockets and lighting?
Even if your wiring looks like a rat's or mare's or beaver's nest, some before and after pics would be helpful.
Hey, Duncan! No, no fuse block in the car. Just a power strip. I posted up some pics of my car wiring back a few pages ago, but here they are again so you don't have to go search for them.
I have 8 separate power lines going from the bike to the car -- (1) pink electric trim-up, (2) purple electric trim-down, (3) blue running lights, (4) brown brake lights, (5) green turn signals, (6) black unswitched accessory socket, (7) and (8) blue and red switched accessory sockets. I also have two separate white ground lines--one to the Fuzeblock and one directly to the battery. The power distribution happens behind the seat back as seen here--
Separate lines makes it easier to troubleshoot problems. This whole area is protected by the seat back, which gets used even when the dog platform is in place.
I installed Powerlet sockets on a piece of wood glued (yes, glued!) to the seat support bracket. This way I didn't have to drill any more holes in the car, and the bracket provides some protection to the sockets. The sockets will be used for Queen Bee's heated gear, for a heated cushion for the dog, and for re-charging batteries on gadgets while on the move.
Your not a bad electrician neater than I am,I like the FZ-1 a PDM-60 is just a bit to techie maybe if I had a canbuss system, I can't decide to I want to cut the end's off my BMW battery cables or not(to make a decent looking splice), I could de-tug it as I have the stock A frame and lower triple clamp and I can easily reverse things though I don't know why I would. Are you familiar with Eastern Beaver ? http://easternbeaver.com/Main/main.html
Yeah, I mentioned Eastern Beaver four posts up. Eastern Beaver is my "go-to" source for electrical crapola. Been using his stuff for years. Jim seems to be a cool guy and I always get stuff from him real fast even though he's shipping from Japan. He'll also put together custom stuff for you if you can tell him what you need.
Yes why would I think there is any information you wouldn't have a pretty good handle on ? foolishness after all you own a Guzzi ! How did that happen ? My first real motorcycle was a Guzzi about a 79 SP-1 before that was a amf HD Sportster and a Kawasaki Mach 1, it's a wonder I'm still alive at all.DB
***(said I wasn't going to post it, but here it is anyway--my FZ-1 Fuzeblock install)***
I got 26 items on my winter punch list. Yesterday, I finished #14 (relocate and rewire the FZ-1 above) and #15 which was a big one--to troubleshoot and fix the electrical gremlins in the sidecar.
As you can see, I need to write stuff down and draw diagrams for myself, and put little labels on all the wires. I still manage to screw things up!
Of the remaining 10 items, only two are "must do's". Rebuild the rear shock (sent it out 3 weeks ago and should get it back real soon now) and install the new 34/11 final drive (which will be an easy mod because all I need to do is bring my wallet and my rig to South Sound BMW!)
So I'm starting to get excited about the coming season. Got the nod from Queen Bee to take Kirby on a l-o-o-o-n-g trip this summer so kinda thinking about doing the Great Divide Trail south to north in time to arrive at the Bigfoot Rally. That would be a fun kind of goal to shoot for!
Anybody wanna come with us?
You didn't do that bad with your fz-1 mount, hell even my welder electrical tech mentor makes himself diagrams even draws more complex circuits on his computer before creating them,( eccentric prefers classical music while welding) .The important thing to remember is one never has enough good crimping and or stripping tools.
I was tempted to put a battery back in my stock position to just have terminals to attache everything to and make the area neater, and I may yet.DB