XR250l rear rim question

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by apotex, Jan 12, 2018 at 11:12 AM.

  1. apotex

    apotex n00b

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    Hey! I have a 96 xr250l. I know that the hub and spokes are specific to the xr250l due to the cush hub. Does anyone know if the rim itself is specific to the xr250l? Are their any aftermarket rims that will accept the stock spokes and hub? Any help is greatly appreciated!

    BJM
    #1
  2. Richarde1605

    Richarde1605 Adventurer

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    Hard question,
    To use the specific hub and specific spokes, you must use the specific rim. However many rims are available that could be used, some could use the specific spokes, some are blank and require drilling and punching to suit the specific hub, and custom spokes.
    Google motorcycle wheel builders, and ring to speak to someone who can answer specific questions about your requirements :-)

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    #2
  3. ex250mike

    ex250mike Been here awhile

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    If you can't find what you want in a L wheel consider using an R wheel.
    #3
  4. JCool

    JCool Long timer

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    Buchanan Spokes. The rim only needs the appropriate number of holes for the spokes. Buchanan's builds wheels and sells parts , as well as custom made spokes and drilled rims.
    #4
  5. EnduroRdr

    EnduroRdr Woods Racer & D/S Rider

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    I’m speculating it’s a 36 hole 17” x 2.15 wide

    Size will be stamped on the side of the rim
    Most all Asian bikes were 36 hole (European bikes usually 40 hole) but you should count to be sure it’s correct.

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    #5
  6. ex250mike

    ex250mike Been here awhile

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    18 x 2.15 32 holes
    #6
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  7. Richarde1605

    Richarde1605 Adventurer

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    Same as my XR400 rim

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    #7
  8. apotex

    apotex n00b

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    Thanks everybody! I will be calling Buchanan to see what they suggest. Stainless steel spokes which are unpolished are close to the stock look, correct? It is hard to tell because mine are in poor shape. Thanks again!
    #8
  9. apotex

    apotex n00b

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    Also, if i order just spokes, is it very difficult to lace and true the wheel by myself? I have seen videos on the process and it looks like something I can manage. Has anyone done this by themselves? Thanks!
    #9
  10. kenny robert

    kenny robert Long timer

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    lacing in a rim is not too bad as long as you follow correct procedure
    a rim must be drilled at the correct angles for spokes but that doesn't mean some other bikes rim is not a perfect match angle wise
    but your 32 spoker is oddball shit, 36 is the norm 40 is next norm, 32 is the new whatever,but the new hubs with straight spokes can be tensioned more
    the old bent spoke end way has a limit then it just tries to straighten the bent end
    a missfit rim ,wrong angles yeilding bowed spokes is crap, thats all there is to it they must be straight on the run rim to hub the whole principle of the wire wheel hinges on that fact
    the main thing is to get the rim on the same centerline track as it is designed to be on the machine
    you can use sprocket surface as a straight edge plant and measure over to rim edge
    if lacing in same size and yours is not to whacked out you can measure yours for the benchmark
    generally if the hub is same on both sides then most rims are centered on hub
    a new rim is really quite round when new
    it doesn't take much to pull the whole rim off center ,a few-half dozen turns can move it sideways a lot
    if your into triggeralmetry its easy to digest that
    the only advantage to ss spokes is corrosion proof
    they are not as strong as good steel wire and you must use some good anti-sneaze paste on threads ss is hairy and loves to wad up and seaze in threads
    i like using 2 dial indicators one set for radial one for axial runout
    its also easy to see if you are going eliptical instead of round by observing the indicator ,the sweep becomes dippy
    many will say eff that but i tell you now its heaps easier with indicators because you can see exactly how much movement is happening and it saves you from going too far in any direction when on final true
    i have after all spokes and nips in place but not near true yet i have marked the rim in 1/4's or 3rds and just snugged up the small group right at those to get initial true
    do not try to do it with a goddam balancing spindle and cones with the spindle rolling on the little shit bearings in a balancing stand
    i see many do it that way,good grief morons all of them
    bolted securely in a swingarm is a must
    i use a scrap swingarm clamped vertical in carpenters bench vise
    you want to be able to thump it and smack it with a rubber mallet and not upset pointers or indicators
    once you start getting spokes in good seated nipple contact 1/2 turn max on each nip is a safety valve for noobs
    dont bolt it in swingarm till all spokes in place,just flat on clear benchtop for spoke planting
    #10
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  11. apotex

    apotex n00b

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    Well, I have plenty of dial indicators I can use. Te hub is offset due to the cush drive. Thanks!
    #11
  12. Richarde1605

    Richarde1605 Adventurer

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    Lay a reference surface of the hub on a table, measure, and put the rim in the same relative position...

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    #12
  13. JCool

    JCool Long timer

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    Send your hub to Buchanan's.
    #13
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  14. kenny robert

    kenny robert Long timer

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    as long as the rim is correct motorcycle wheel building is really quite easy if you understand it
    you have to try to fuck up anything
    bicycle wheels ? different animal,whoa , big ole flimsy ten speed wheels ? no thanks them are going to be way touchy
    #14
    JCool likes this.