XR650R blown crank

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Chris_W_65, May 28, 2013.

  1. Chris_W_65

    Chris_W_65 XR KILLER

    Joined:
    May 16, 2013
    Oddometer:
    52
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    Souf Efrica
    Help!!

    I changed my oil and filter on Saturday and there were no unwanted particles in the oil, filter or strainer, now 130km later my big end is stuffed and my engine is full of bronze shavings - not sure why this happened? I used the same oil, the filter was in the right way and I put in 1.6L oil.

    Should I replace the crank with a brand new OEM crank or use an aftermarket conrod kit? I want something that will last.

    I see Carillo, Falicon and Pro X rods - can anyone tell me which are good?

    I have an 11:1 Wiseco (which I will be replacing). I didn't check what cam is in but I am thinking about getting a stage 1 Hotcam. I was planning on fitting a CRF450 flatslide carb but after the crank problem that may have to wait.
    Thanks

    [​IMG]
    #1
  2. montesa_vr

    montesa_vr Legend in his own mind

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    You changed oil and 78 miles later one of the most reliable engines in the off-road world suffered a highly unusual failure. Either you are the victim of a remarkable coincidence or something went wrong with your oil change. I think you'll want to decide which before you spend a lot more money picking aftermarket parts.
    #2
  3. cognugget

    cognugget n00b

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    I say keep the motor stock. Stock Bore, stock cam, stock compression. They run forever without a bunch of mods.
    #3
  4. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    Falicon seem to be the top rod, and when you price it you will see why.

    Someone, I think it was ridefreak, said only a couple weeks ago that there were issues with some factory cranks not having the correct side clearance on the big end from the factory, and once they start to go, they go quick.

    However, when that 11:1 was put in there, was the crank done also?

    The rod is the weakest link in this motor eitherway, so get something with rollers on the big and small end.

    I would stick with 11:1, it isn't really that radical.

    I know a few racers who have tried and like the Hot Rods crank kits; it is a complete crank w/ rod all put together for a reasonable price. Just make sure its got roller bearings on both ends.

    You put oil in, filter was correct, yes its a coincident. Unless you put sun tan oil in it, that stuff sucks, even the spf 30.
    #4
  5. sintax

    sintax Been here awhile

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    what year XR?
    #5
  6. woodsxr

    woodsxr Been here awhile

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    Nothing to add. Just want to follow this to see what you find.
    Good luck with the rebuild
    #6
  7. Motomochila

    Motomochila Mad Scientist

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    Go with the Falicon and a crank balance. I'm running that and a hot cam stage 2 on my 2000 street converted 650R, Cush hub too to also protect the tranny. She a good engine and parts are becoming scarce so treat her well.
    #7
  8. Jimmy the Heater

    Jimmy the Heater Dirt Farmer

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    Cart before the horse much?

    From your post you just changed the oil and changed it again within a short ammt of time...odd. Did you hear a rod knock or some such?

    I agree that something major is wrong, but don't you think you should find out what exactly the problem is before you start parts shopping?
    #8
  9. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    I asked around about balancing my crank, or really any thumper crank.

    A guy at Crank Works told me to not bother with it; it doesn't buy you much if anything.

    Considering that advice came from a respected crank shop, I trust it.
    #9
  10. Chris_W_65

    Chris_W_65 XR KILLER

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    Oddometer:
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    No, it was due for 1000km service that is why I changed it - I bought the bike used.

    Now that I am riding my friend's XR650L I realize my engine did sound a bit noisy compared to the XRL

    Here is what is going in
    Wossner 11:1 (it had a Wiseco 11:1 but I only found out when I stripped it down)
    New cam chain
    New oil pump
    All gaskets and seals
    Probably stage 2 Hotcam and Kibble White springs
    Flowed head
    Pumper carb will have to wait

    Apart from the big end and the resultant scoring of the piston skirts from the bronze bits the rest of the motor is mint - rockers, clutch basket, clutch bushing, cam, shift forks and bore look like brand new. Even the oil pump and timing chain are still good but I am changing those
    #10
  11. Chris_W_65

    Chris_W_65 XR KILLER

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    I gave my oil change a lot of thought

    Drained oil from frame (when hot)
    Removed and cleaned sieve
    Drained oil from engine
    Removed oil pump/filter cover and removed oil filter
    Replaced oil filter with correct filter (although a Champion as this was supplied with my bike). Made sure spring was behind filter and hole was facing outwards. Fitted oil filter/pump cover.
    Fitted drain plugs
    Filled 1.6L of Castrol Activo 4T 10W-40 (supplied with bike and same as previous owner was using)
    Kicked bike over 6 or 7 times
    Started engine and watched oil level come up to max level in my oil sight tube

    The only possible mistake I thought I could have made was to have the filter not properly aligned with the hole in the cover and partially blocking the hole with the oil filter's seal but I checked and this is not possible as the oil filter basket is not big enough for this

    The motor had an 11:1 Wiseco in - probably the big end was worn and at the same time as the oil change I dropped a tooth on the front sprocket and it was a hard 130km after that till it went pop

    Obviously I will check all oil channels are clear before assembling the motor
    #11
  12. joexr

    joexr Banned

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    Are you sure you didn't twist the bottom oil line after cleaning the strainer? And what do you mean by the oil level came up in the tank? Did you put ALL of the oil in the rocker cover and none in the tank?
    #12
  13. Chris_W_65

    Chris_W_65 XR KILLER

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    1.6L in the frame - no, the pipe was not kinked. If my motor didn't have oil the other components would be damaged after 130 hard km
    #13
  14. XRPOWER

    XRPOWER Been here awhile

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    Hi mr! Did you fin out somting what was hapend with the engine? HP
    #14
  15. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    I doubt it's you oil change, just coincidence. The gold shavings are what's left of the big end thrust washers. It's rare but when an XR blows a crank, 99% of the time that's the symptom. There were some 01s & 02s that suffered this problem, some before the bike was out of warranty. those were caused by incorrect side clearance at the big end when the crank was assembled. You see it more often in the street (high RPM) ridden motors. HiComp adds to the big end stresses which I'm thinking probably made a marginal situation bad enough to eventually cause a failure. Back through this thread there's more than a few examples of the same failure.

    If you run higher RPMs (Sumo/street) with your HiComp I'd suggest getting it rebuilt by a reputable company like Falicon. If you run it like many folks do, a replacement crank works fine.
    #15
  16. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

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    A year or two ago I rebuilt a fellows XR600 that had blown it's rod. There were no thrust washers left, just a bunch of gold talcum powder. EVERYWHERE! I had to go over that motor with a fine tooth toothbrush. I even stripped each transmission shaft of it's gears to get all of the gold dust out of the collars and oil passageways. I spent hours cleaning that motor.

    Then he wanted to powder coat the motor so I got to clean the cases a second time to get rid of the blast media residue.

    I recently bought the motor and frame from him and built this:

    [​IMG]
    #16
  17. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    Nice build Steve. Very nice.
    #17
  18. mcma111

    mcma111 Long timer

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    Thanks. It's for sale.
    #18
  19. jamacca

    jamacca n00b

    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    8
    Location:
    Karratha, WA
    Hey RideFreak,
    You seem to have hit the nail on the head. I just bought a 2000 XR650R, very low kms / miles. Looking to build the perfect reliable cross country weapon... got 1,000km in on first trip, came to a halt. engine locked up but could wind backwards to unlock. Wind it over and it would lock again eventually. got the gold glitter throughout. Not as bad as some of the images on here.
    So I am in for a new Connecting Rod, but what else? Top end looks fine, what about crank, bearings, seals...???
    What a @#$#@ nightmare!
    #19