XR650R electricity

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by themansfield, Jan 8, 2009.

  1. 269gs

    269gs Been here awhile

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    How many DS kits has Baja Designs sold for the XR650r? How can I find out which one I have if I am not the original owner?
    I will pull the Left side cover tomorrow to see what my stator situation is.

    XR rider, pm sent regarding your offer to send schematics.
    #21
  2. ZenMoto

    ZenMoto Bikeslut

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    I also have my BRP set up with the rICKY sTATOR (2X100W). I have them split, 1 to the rectifier feeding horn, signals, heated grips and tail light, and 1 to an AC regulator feeding a Baja Designs 8" halogen race light (not really legal here in CA, but they don't really inspect anyway so...).

    The single 100w feed doesn't provide enough juice to give me adaquate power for the 8" light, even with a 55w bulb, so I'm trying to redesign the system as we speak.

    However, I have converted all my signals and tail light to LED units which are far more duarble, and draw much less power! :D If you convert your signals to LED, note that you need a different flasher relay to provide the correct voltage to the LEDs or they won't work. The tail light unit I have is "supposed" to work as tail/brake light, but seems permanently stuck on "brake" so that's another thing I'm looking into. lol

    I may sacrifice the horn and battery and go full AC just to get the light output I want. I don't really ride on the street anyway, I just have it plated so I can do dual sport rides like the LA to Barstow to Vegas, etc..

    I'm glad to see a thread like this, as I'm in the middle of redoing everything. Please post up what works for you!

    D
    #22
  3. Hodakaguy

    Hodakaguy NorthWest Adventure Rider

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    Whats your light doing? Is it just dim/yellow? I'm running a single 100W AC leg to my 8" light with a 100W bulb and its extremely bright. ???

    Hodakaguy
    #23
  4. Zapp22

    Zapp22 ZAPP - Tejas

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    +1

    This subject is THE subject in doing an XRR buildup. What Hodaka and XRider are providing is so necessary. You gotta get this step right, and make it bulletproof [or weatherproof, better yet] using high-grade harnesses and splices, otherwise you're going to be a very unhappy owner down the road a ways. I've really been wanting to see someone complete a "Kit" for rerunning all the wiring, all the spigots including accessories tied to these High-Output stator designs.

    The only thing I would add to the OP is that the Euro versions of XRR, or the XRL for that matter, have some wiring schematics that are very helpful in understanding all this stuff. The XRR over there has lights...

    #24
  5. Gunslinger1

    Gunslinger1 GIVE'R

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    Rolla, MO
    #25
  6. themansfield

    themansfield Adventurer

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    BAck with an update on my setup.

    Got schematics .pdf package from XRider, got the soldering iron hot, installed a fresh new handlebar switch and got to business. After a good deal of splicing and soldering and fixing PO's wacko wiring job, DS kit lights all work properly except for little "running light." At this point I'm saying hell with it because I've got the low and high beams that work as they should.

    Now I'm poised for a home stator rewind as per the instructions on 4strokes.com. A quick read through them leaves many procedural questions, but I figure if I botch the job I'll just get a BD or Ricky anyhow. Any help with a better set of directions or some tips would be great.
    #26
  7. ZenMoto

    ZenMoto Bikeslut

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    Basically, besides the flickering, it is just dim and yellow, as you said. I think the stock Baja Designs "DS kit" light put out as much light. My setup for that leg is currently 100W lead -> BD AC rectifier -> high voltage toggle switch (bar mounted) -> 8" race light. There's really nothing in the circuit to sap power, and even at consistant revs the light never gets really bright.

    Originally I had the 100W bulb in there and thought the 100W feed might not be putting out enough juice to fully energize that bulb so I put in the 55W, but am getting basically the same amount of light. :(

    So at this point I'm a little torn. I'd like to have the DC power and battery so my tail light stays on if the bike stalls, etc., but really am tempted to just chuck it and run the whole system AC.

    ...thoughts?

    Thanks,
    D
    #27
  8. Gunslinger1

    Gunslinger1 GIVE'R

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    You may have a ground that is suppose float as opposed to grounding to the frame off your rectifier.
    #28
  9. ZenMoto

    ZenMoto Bikeslut

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    I'm not sure what you mean by a floating ground. The rectifier is grounded to the frame and I've done a continuity check to ensure it was a good ground. Are you saying that the ground isn't supposed to be grounded?

    ...I'm just not sure I'm following.

    Thanks,
    D
    #29
  10. Gunslinger1

    Gunslinger1 GIVE'R

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    pm sent
    #30
  11. XRider

    XRider Almost Lifelike

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    The number of requests for the DSK schematics has gotten to the point that I've lost track of who I have and have not sent them to. If you haven't recieved your schematics yet (sorry 'bout that) please PM me your email address once again and I'll get them off to you. For those who haven't requested a set yet but would like one, let's do this all at once. For those who would also like the stock XRR schematic, mention it in your PM and you'll recieve it as well. For the inmate who was unsure which version DSK he had, PM me and I'll tell you how to find out.

    By the way it's good to see so many people not affraid to dig into thier electrical systems. It realy will all start to make sence after a while.

    XR's Forever!
    #31
  12. alexh2k

    alexh2k Adventurer

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    Atlanta
    I've been watching this thread and have searched many others as I'm about to wire my XR650r and still deciding on several components. I have noticed many threads about BD batteries getting toasted, could this be due to incorrect wiring or wrong reg/rec? I was thinking of going with a battery box available through Wheeling:

    http://www.wheelingcyclesupply.com/shop?action=category&cat_id=72

    Scroll down to the EZ Electric Wire Kit, you can buy the whole deal or bits and pieces. It just takes 8 AA batteries, thought that would be good if they went out on the road you could replace at a convenience store, or if the batteries went dead in your flashlight you could rob the bike. So, I was wondering if anybody had any experience with this battery box and their wiring harness, it seems reasonable enough. I have heard many good things from this company. I currently have their Edge tail light/brake light and it works great.
    #32
  13. Stevevh

    Stevevh Kudu Driver

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    Another great info thread on electrics for the 650R.:clap I just totally rewired my bike and built my harness from scratch. I also never really got the "float the ground" issue. I bolted the ground from the rectifier to the bikes frame and we shall see how that works.
    I posted this before but it has good info on the electrics for the BRP and seems appropriate to add to this thread.

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=161729
    #33
  14. XRider

    XRider Almost Lifelike

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    The NiCad batteries going dead is due to the nature of the charging system and the requirements of the NiCads. To get a long service life from NiCads they need to be completely discharged before being recharged. On the bike they are constantly being topped up without the discharge cycle. This causes the time to discharge to be less and less until they are worthless. I picked up a 1.2 Ah 12 volt lead acid battery that I'm going to stash under the seat. Lead acid batteries are quite tolerant of being topped off without being discharged. I'll let you guys know how it works out.
    #34
  15. XRider

    XRider Almost Lifelike

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    ZenMoto, I'll bet that if you connect a volt meter (set to measure AC volts) across the 2 wires that connect to your headlight bulb the meter will read 6 volts or less. If you have gotten one of my schematic packs check out the one for connecting lights to a big stator. I know everyone keeps telling you that you have to float the AC ground but nobody has seen fit to tell you what that means so here it is. I won't blather on about the theory I'll just blather on about what you need to do. The two wires from your stator that will be the AC lighting circuit should have one of the AC regulator wires connected to each one. None of the AC stator wires or the reg. wires should be connected to the frame. Also, most lights will have the negative side of the bulb grounded to the housing and therefore the mounting bolts. You will need to isolate the light from the frame or insolate the bulb so it's no longer connected to ground. Basicly your AC circuit needs to be a closed loop, and only the DC system can use the frame as a ground. It's a pain in the ass but that's the deal. BTW if you want you can add a second regulator/rectifier for a pure DC system and then you won't need to sweat the ground isolation. If you do this you could also run two batteries but you don't have to. Hope this helps.
    #35
  16. Irnworker433

    Irnworker433 XR650RRRRRRRR

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    Fleischmanns NY
    I can see youve been busy. Any luck on finding pics of lights youve done? Im sending the stator down to BD to be rewound this week. Thanks!
    irnworker433@aol.com
    #36
  17. ZenMoto

    ZenMoto Bikeslut

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    Thanks for the input. That makes sense to me; don't really know why I didn't see that earlier (I actually have a background in electronics, albeit in the Marines, and a loooong time ago). ;)

    Thanks again for taking the time.

    Cheers,
    Dale
    #37
  18. ZenMoto

    ZenMoto Bikeslut

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    Ok, I'm back. I've rectified some electrical issues (my Vector computer lost power due to the teeeny-tiny 22g. wire they use getting rubbed to pieces). I've also mapped out my electrical system as shown below:

    [​IMG]

    You can see that the headlight ground is currently tied to the frame. This is the thing I believe I need to fix. The plan is to remove the headlight ground from the frame, along with the ground from the AC Regulator, and tie them together (floating ground?). :ear

    Obviously, the bikes general systems are all run from the DC side, post battery, I just didn't feel like including all that wiring in my diagram. The AC circuit consists only of what is shown; it is a very simple circuit.

    Also, the way I have the drawing laid out shows, approximately, the correct relative lengths for each wire run.

    Anyone have other thoughts?

    I'm hoping to get my wheel back from Buchanan's today so I can fire up the bike and test the wiring out. ...it's really hard to kick start the pig with no rear wheel it turns out! :rofl
    #38
  19. XRider

    XRider Almost Lifelike

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    Remove the frame ground from the AC circuit and everything should work fine. I'm not sure what style of headlight you've got but make sure the negative side of the bulb isn't connected to the housing and therefore grounded to the frame. One last thing, all AC regulators have only 2 wires comming out of them, your drawing shows the AC reg with 4 wires (2 from the stator and 2 going to the light). If your regulator has 4 wires than it's a DC regulator. A typical DC regulator will have 2 yellow wires and 1 black and 1 red wire and a typical AC reg will have one brown and one yellow wire only. Or is this just a typo in the drawing so to speak?
    #39
  20. ZenMoto

    ZenMoto Bikeslut

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    Thanks for chiming in XRider. The drawing was correct, sort of. ...I forgot (and glad I remembered) that Baja Designs sent me the wrong thing; I ordered an AC regulator, but they sent a reg/rec, so that was how I had the light wired, as a DC system (shown in the diagram). I now have an AC Reg wired in.

    According to what I could find, the AC Reg simply gets wired in parallel with the AC circuit from the stator? ...basically I have the green and white from the stator going to the AC Reg, at the point where the white ties into the yellow of the AC Reg, I also have the Positive feed to the headlight (via the handlebar switch) wired in, and I have the negative feed to the headlight wired in at the same point the as the Brown & Green rom the AC Reg & Stator respectively.

    ...does this sound correct to you?

    I'm going to fire the pig up later today and see if it works! :)

    Thanks again,
    D
    #40