XR650R electricity

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by themansfield, Jan 8, 2009.

  1. Sean-0

    Sean-0 straya carnt

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    here ias some work i did on my pig .... my bike runs dc pwr for everything ..stator rewound to 200 and puts all that pwr to the reg/rec of a kwaka 1000 ..then goes to my battery and then pwrs all elecs on the bike ...the charge system is seperate from the ignition so if it fails the bike still runs no mater what

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    all fused and works great runs gps...12v pwr socket ...led spots ..thermofan...heated grips...plus the normal headlight speedo blinkers horn and so forth
  2. sintax

    sintax Been here awhile

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    I'm sure i'm going to be spending some time in this thread over the next couple weeks. I'm upgrading my electrical system from your stock XR650r w/ the full DC BD DSK.

    So i've read all 66 pages twice now.... :huh

    There does not seem to be a ton of info on getting a quality Ni-Cad battery pack replacement. Some of the guys have posted locations, people have bashed, and I cant find a clear "good option" I've seen someone online that list the power leads from the pack at 20ga, which is clearly too small.

    I'm not thinking i'm very interested in moving to a Li-Ion, or other type of cell that require extra charging methods. I need the bike to supply all the necessary juice.

    So does anyone have a company that has made them a good solid pack?
  3. Sean-0

    Sean-0 straya carnt

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    the battery in the pics works well very light and 6ah ...great idea on a bike like this easy to find a place to put it ...acpwr to reg/rec and then to batt easy
  4. sintax

    sintax Been here awhile

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    Should have clarified. Needs to fit under the seat... :D
  5. Sean-0

    Sean-0 straya carnt

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    you could fit that battery under the seat ....move the cdi a bit and there would be room
  6. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    Hope I can get some input. Will this setup work as drawn. Focused primarily on stator/regulator area?
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  7. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    I use two sizes: red for single connection and blue for making y-harnesses where whire branch.

    A new trick I came up with also is to inject the connectors with dielectric silicon grease for waterproofing. Tape and shrink wrap let water in an hold it much of the time.
  8. thouk

    thouk Been here awhile

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    Mitch,
    I think you may have trouble running to regulators off of the same lines of the stator. If you are going to make dc power you might as well as run your headlight off of the dc also. I'm not sure, tony
  9. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    According to what I have read and seen that should work, but I have not used a frame ground on the dc side myself because the ignition uses a frame ground and I don't what to intermix things I don't understand.

    It seems like it is shown the same in the service manual. If you haven't noticed, they use generic schematics that show a battery and turn signal on a dc circuit and an ac light all running off the same stator coil. If I am reading it right.
  10. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    I know there is at least one other person out there who has had this same experience. So I am posting this for information purposes, but also to see how others have handled it.

    I am running two 100w coils.

    coil 1 is powering a 100w halogen and a tail light, stock reg.

    coil 2 is feeding a 250w tymphanium r/r (ricky stator's) to create a dc circuit to power led turn/brake and 55w HID. I had used 150w trailtechs in the past and they died.

    It works great as long as I keep a load on the DC side.

    The problem I have is this:

    The 25ow r/r requires a battery. If no battery is present the measurements are wacked; it will show 12-14v ac steady and 10.5v dc, dropping to about 8v with increased rpm on the dc outputs.
    With a battery present it shows trace ac voltages with a solid 12-14v dc.
    With a capacitor instead of a battery it will charge to over 17v dc.


    I built my own r/r using a seperate reg and full wave rectifier with the same results.

    Aside from causing a great deal of mental anguish over the physics of it all, it works fine as long as there is a battery in the circuit and a load.

    However, using LiFe batteries instead of Pb or NiCd, I get similar problems as with a capacitor in that they basically are being over charged if there is no loads on the system (daytime running, no HID light). This will eventually cause a cell to die after long periods of high revs.

    My plan now is put a load on the dc circuit when the HID is not running. For now it will be just a resistor using up 10-15w, but I plan to put that load to use, maybe with a fan or disco lights.


    BTW, the reason I will not run a dc only system is because my ac has been the only one to never fail.
  11. arrcrussell

    arrcrussell Gimme Dirt

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    Looks to me like you got the DC+ feeding the blinkers twice - once directly and the other thru the multi-switch.
  12. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    I don't think you're going to have much luck with that system but I guess it's worth a shot. By hanging 2 systems off the stator you are doing some wierd stuff with the stator's output. For one thing you've effectively reduced the charging systems resistance by a large amount (probably 1/2) which could easily double the current. Is there a compelling reason to set it up that way? The current issue I described could decide to cause problems when you least expect it if it doesn't blow out a reg right off the bat. Anotherwords it might seem to be fine and eventually burn out a componet while you're out riding it. The manufacturers have come up with many different configurations but I've yet to see one configured that way. That design effectively takes what was a very simple sytem and makes it much more complex plus adds another failure point and increases the heat and load on all the componets. An AC/DC system does the exact same thing but with 2 seperate systems. Is this because you have a rewound stator with one output?

    You could easily wire that HL into the DC system and avoid the potential for other problems also setup that way it's not adding any reliability to the system.
  13. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    ya i messed up on the rear blinker setup. I guess i had the idea in my head to get the BD or RS dual output stator and run both AC and DC. then i decided i could accomplish a high output stator and save myself $150. so i drew up that diagram still utilizing the AC and DC, not sure why i could not do a full DC system. and that is probably what will happen. XRsnaggle or some guy with a user name like that seemed like he had the setup like i drew, but for some reason he fried it when changed from 100W HL to 50W HL, ?? IDK, no reason i can't do full DC, not sure why i wanted to incorporate AC. i've just been going through my upgrades list trying to get all things figured out. i rewound the stator two years ago, but i added the new windings in series with the old windings, and did not fill up all poles for some reason, so when i redo it, i want to do it right.
  14. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    Chris, can you explain the reduction in charging resistance? I don't quite understand that, I thought that was purely a product of the battery's internal resistance?

    The only reason I thought it would work, while not being ideal, is that the xrr service manual shows some schematics that are similar; dc and ac system from the same coil. Or so I thought, looking at again there are two coils. However, these wiring diagrams are obviously not of an xrr so who knows what the hell thats all about?

    I think in theory you could have an ac light, and still rectify it for a dc system. However, there wouldn't be a need for both ac reg and a reg/rectifier, because only one of the regs is going to be doing its job.

    It would be simpler to just go all dc.
  15. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    The battery is the source, the rectifier is the load (resistance). Anytime you add resistance in parallel (like the second regulator) it lowers total resistance increasing current. This explains it with a calculator and shows the formula. Type in a few values into R1 & R2 and you'll see the loss of overall resistance, plug that new value into ohms law and you'll see the increase in circuit current I'm describing, it could easily double the current, not good!

    I'm not telling the OP not to do it and I might be missing something here but in my expierence why add the complexity and the overhead associated with an extra reg? We want our systems to be as simple as can be and as robust as we can make them. Each componet will add some loss of output to the system by virtue of it's resistance in that circuit. Almost all headlight bulbs that run on AC will run on DC. The final product will end up being more complex, run hotter and have more potential for failure. I seriously doubt the headlight will be any brighter if it does work at all, it's hanging off a circuit in a very inefficient way.

    I've worked on my share of MC electrical systems as well as plenty of other electric/electronic sircuits and have yet to see a system that is configured for 2 different voltage types off the same output in this manner. The closest thing I can think of is when they pull more than one tap off a source like a transformer or set of windings. In that situation, the way the windings are configured provides circuit isolation. Doesn't mean the OPs method isn't out there but typically at a min. there is some circuitry or design feature that minimizes ones influence on the other.
  16. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    Mitch, no prob running a single output all DC (or AC) or dual (AC/DC) there's pro's & con's to both. If you are doing your own stator, the single output is a little easier, no reason why you can't run a full DC setup off it. Like I mentioned above, shoot for simple, last thing you want to do is troubleshoot a complex system out on the trail somewhere. There's a few designs in this thread that are pretty robust, you'll notice they are very similar to some of the OEM systems. They are proven designs that hold up provided the wiring is done right. Often folks will try to reinvent the wheel, nothing wrong with that if the original wheel doesn't work for you, just be prepared to spend some $$ and sweat going down that road.
  17. sintax

    sintax Been here awhile

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  18. babuja

    babuja Been here awhile

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    Just got my fan install going on and need some help with electrical connection.

    Where/how to conect on/off switch for fan?

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  19. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    what is the device on the lower triple clamp says MBN on it? i'm guessing you included it for a reason. Does your bike have DC power? battery? capacitor?
  20. Sean-0

    Sean-0 straya carnt

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    you can draw prw from the green an black wire nxt to the pink 1 in the pic shown ..not the green and black going to the capacitor

    that is a reg/rec to run your blinkers and horn .. you have the EU specbike with the headlights and blinkers and horn for street rego i take it ...same as my bike