XR650R electricity

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by themansfield, Jan 8, 2009.

  1. ZXRaziel

    ZXRaziel Been here awhile

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    If you follow the bd instructions it shows that both circuits need to be grounded to the frame , but it does not work if you do that . What is the solution to this ?
  2. ZXRaziel

    ZXRaziel Been here awhile

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  3. Rydah

    Rydah Remember the Night Rydah!

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    So after riding for over four years with the ol' Baja Designs/Ricky Stator (BD/RS) kit on my bike, I've come to the conclusion that I need to build my own harness. These bikes were never intended to be dual-sported, so there just aint much room under the seat, behind the light, etc for the exta wiring. I'm running the split AC/DC RS setup, with my headlights on AC, while the DC side powers my other lights (tail, indicators-all LED), 12V accessory plug, KTM fan and horn off a small battery located under the seat.

    I'd like to keep all the same functions, but want to reduce the wiring as much as possible, while still using a better grade of wiring and connectors, plus leaving room to add on a couple other accessories if needed.

    I know some of you have posted that you have built your own harnesses, and wonder if any of those fit my same model. If so, would you be willing to share so I don't have to "reinvent the wheel"? Also, to save space/weight, would using an automotive grade of sheilded wire be a possibility, and use the sheild as your ground?

    Lastly, I've seen different opinions about which side (AC or DC) to float. I gather that you can float either, as long as the other one is grounded to the frame. Mine has the AC side floated, but is there an advantage as to which one is floated?

    If you've read through all my blathering, and would still be willing to help, I sure would appreciate it.
  4. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    After doing a couple different bikes, I've found the simplest way is to add a DC harness, leaving the OE harness untouched. I've done both and the seperate harness was by far the easiest and most reliable. You'll only add the wires that you need to run the items you've chosen to include and depending on where you decide to locate the reg/rect the under seat area can be left uncrowded. Troubleshooting the ignition remains the same as stock and you're not at the mercy of your wiring job when it quits in the middle of nowhere. I prefer to gnd the AC as it's already grounded and the dc items always come with a (+) and (-) which makes it easy to run them back to the battery. Just a personal preference though.

    Here's a diagram of a system I used, it's very basic (on purpose) and mimics the honda OE (XRL) setup as close as possible.

    [​IMG]

    This is a fully integrated system, not the seperate DC that I described (that came later) This setup worked fine for the 5K mi I had the bike setup that way, I chose to go a more minimalistic approach and run a cap. The DC setup had good charging of the battery and bright lights, seperate DC system will do the same.
  5. Rydah

    Rydah Remember the Night Rydah!

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    Rats, I'm at work, and can't see your diagram. Will check when I get home. Good suggestion though, Chris. When I bought the bike, it already had the RS stator and the BD kit installed. Does the BD kit replace the stock harness, or is it still there, but has just been added to? In other words, can I remove the BD kit and end up with the stock harness? Also, I'm assuming then that the stock harness is robust enough to handle the increased wattage of the RS stator?
  6. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    I've never used the BD harness so I'm not sure if the stock harness is still there. I ran 100W ac through the stock harness with no problems, I could see that the connectors had gotten a little warm (discolored) but no melting, there must have been some resistance (corrosion) at the bullet connectors to cause that. Typically the switches are the most effected by the increased current, I try and use a handlebar switch off a XR650L for the lights, the OE switches handle the extra power much better than most of the aftermarket switches I've seen.
  7. mikejohn

    mikejohn Long timer

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    Will the stock harness support running a KTM 990 Adv. head light?
  8. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    I can't see why not unless you're connecting up 200W stator (single output) to it.
  9. Henderson757

    Henderson757 Living the American Dream

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    Hey yall,

    Need a little help, I have a BD Dual Sport kit on my XR, has the small battery pack and such. I mainly ride trails so I have ditched the Turn signals, I Order a 8" BD HID light and a 200watt ricky stator. It is the dual 100Watt output. My question is can I run one 100w leg to the BD Kit ( Headlight and Taillight ) and then run the second 100w leg to a 12v charger. I just want to be able to charge my (phone or GPS) Thanks for the help.
  10. tijuana

    tijuana Farkling Around

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    I will have to read all this again. I bought a BD new Squadron and Skeen controller. I need to connect them and blinkers, brake light and a 12volt for a phone charger.

    P.S. I work at bikebanditdotcom :D
  11. hontri

    hontri Global Bummer!

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    I have a similar system.I ran 100 watts thru a regulator (ac power)to run my 8" race light. I ran the other 100 watts thru a regulator /rectifier (dc power) to run signals, brake light,tail light and charging ports. I operate the hi and lo beam of the head light by way of the BD light switch (dc side) thru a relay. Make sure to float the ground on the ac side.
  12. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    You can float ether one.

    Henderson, I'd run 100W to the headlight through the AC reg, connect the other 100W to the BD system, tap in to 12V on the BD system and run a USB converter off the 12V. You'll get allot of power for bright headlight 100W and the remaining (100W) will easily power what's left.
  13. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    Good, you will have access to all the parts. And you need to get some swag for your friend at ADVrider.

    The only advice can give you is add up your max power requirements and make sure it doesn't exceed the stators output.
  14. tijuana

    tijuana Farkling Around

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    I have a dual output Ricky Stator stator installed. :wink:
  15. Rydah

    Rydah Remember the Night Rydah!

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    It might already have been covered in here, but where exactly are the stock grounding points on the XR650R? A diagram would be nice, if at all possible.
    Thanks.
  16. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    Any grounding point is good as long as it's on the frame itself and has a good connection (bare metal). That's one of the reasons I choose to float the DC, the AC harness and it's grounds gets left intact OE style.
  17. Rydah

    Rydah Remember the Night Rydah!

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    Yeah, I like that way better as well. My question though is where is/are the stock grounding point(s)? I believe there is one on the frame backbone near where the coil mounts? This is for the ignition circuit, right?
    Then what about the other two AC legs coming off the stator (I have BD 125W x2 stator)? I assume they are ungrounded until I find one for them? If so, and I ground one (keeping it AC for the lights) to same frame, will it interfere in any way with the ignition ciruit? Sure don't seem like our puny frames are enough metal to ground that much wattage.
  18. Ruprect

    Ruprect Got me a Big Red Pig

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    I really like this idea and have (2) quick questions if you don't mind. Here is the breakdown: I'm planning to run a standard 55/60 headlight and a small incandescent taillight on the stock AC wiring, and the LED turns, brake light, horn and trailtech computer and maybe a GPS on DC. I have an old DS kit that will allow me to mount a small lead-acid battery, reg/rec, etc behind the headlight. I don't really have any plans to add any more power hungry accessories.
    Question #1 - I have 18ga wire to rewind my stator with, how would you recommend dividing the AC vs DC sides re: # of poles each & turns to get enough AC to run ignition, headlight and tail & leave the rest for DC ?
    Question #2 - I have the reg/rec from the old DS kit as well that has (2) red wires, (2) yellow, (1) blue and (1) black coming out of it. One of the reds has ben trimmed off flush. How would you recommend I wire this up to the DC side of the stator ?
    Question #3 (I lied) - any advice on separating the AC hi/lo headlight circuit from the rest of the DC stuff in the handlebar switch. I bought a BD replacement switch with Hi/Lo, Turns and horn. Could I run dc from hi/lo to a relay with the AC thru it, and if so would I need (2) relays to enable lo and hi settings ?

    THX a ton for any advice !!

    Ruprect
  19. graygoat657

    graygoat657 Been here awhile

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    Great thread, thanks to the OP for getting it started. I bought a 03 BRP with a BD kit already installed and it is turning out to be a headache. When I use the right turn signal, everything is normal. But when I try the left switch, the head light blinks. I have traced the wires and everything seems to be in order. BD says I probably have a worn out handlebar switch and I need to replace what I have. Funny thing is, I started to work on it this morning and what do you know, the left blinker starts working. Problem solved, right? I take out the small ni-cad battery to put a trickle charge on it, put it back in and test again....and its back to the blinking head light. And now my rear running and brake light are out.:huh
    Has any one come across something like this before? I'm almost ready to tear the system out and start over again, as there is no telling what the original owner did.
    The bike has the stock stator (as far as I can tell).
  20. LVCJT

    LVCJT Been here awhile

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    +1 on starting over. Then you will know your system front to back. Ridefreak has posted some excellent wiring diagrams on this thread. I kind of remember reading about guys having similar issues due to bad batteries or reg/rect.

    Sent from my MB855 using Tapatalk 2