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Discussion in 'Australia' started by jack82, Mar 12, 2009.
you guys should go work for nasa
NASA works on 99.999999999 percent accuracy.
Theres way too many fuckups in here for that Johno
G'day Johnno, i tried ringing Serco today(thanks for the heads up), but the workshop must shut around 4.00. I have a couple of leads now so will chase them up tomorrow.
ground control to major f-ckup happens quite a bit when i work on my bikes
Poppy if you want a loan of a clymer xr650r manual for a couple of months give me a pm and i will send it to you in the next week or so.
nasa don't even know if there working in metric or imperial let alone getting down to a 99.999999999 % accuracy
Yeh i have days like that
Whys that Joe
I agree that these don't look like cracks to me, casting mold is the most likely cause.
If you want to be completely sure, do a dye penetrant crack check, but my bet is they won't show anything.
The non-rotating side of a bearing is usually size for size fit, called transition, only the crank side of the bearing needs interference, think about a rear wheel drive vehicle front wheel stub axle and hub, and where the interference is and which parts turn.
For reassembling and truing the crank, buy a copy of "Tuning for speed" by that great Aussie engineer, Phil Irving, and all will be described in practical terms.
Wee bit different when talking about steel into alloy housing though otherwise when the motor gets hot, the bearing will spin in the case.
Don't forget also that some cranks are located by one of the main ball bearings.
Bit more progress
Pulling the bearing off the crank
Had to do some repairs to the case were the case saver fits
Tigged up mounting lug
Cleaned & shaped up
Drilled out, ready for tapping
Bit of a chamfer just like factory
Works just like a bought one
best case saver i could find
but i suspect you might make your own might be a few here keen
Hey is that my one DW?!
Your bikes so clean.....it's nearly gay
Well heres some stuff to get the juices flowing
Step 1 - Create a Jig
A jig is a gear that serves as a guiding tool or a holding machine. Construct a jig to hold the bearing and the crankshaft in place. Attach the bearing in the jig and the crankshaft unto the bearing. Take a new bearing and get rid of all the grease and immerse it in the break clean. This frees the bearing and allows the crank to spin the heavy spot down.
Step 2 - Weigh the Bobweight
Remove the piston, rod and wrist pin to weigh it in. The wrist pin is a pin attached at the end of a connecting rod either to a wheel, crank or piston. Take ¾ of the total weight as a guide for you to know the ideal bobweight you will need to wrap around the crank pin. Start spinning the cranks using the balancer machine and see where it stops. Make sure that the counterweight of the crank is heavier compared to the overall weight of the piston and rod on the crankshaft.
Bobweight refers to the reciprocating and rotating weight of the assembly. Reciprocating weight is computed starting from the middle of the rod upwards including the piston, wristpin, and rings. Meanwhile, the rotating weight starts from the lower half of the connecting rod.
Step 3 - Balance the Crank
Do the necessary cuts to obtain the ideal weight wherein the counterbalance must be heavier compared to weight on the crank pin. Place back the crankshaft into the engine which may seem that nothing is different. Start the engine and dont mind the vibration.
Removing weight from the crankshaft to balance the assembly is simple. Use the drill and drill some holes unto the attached crankshaft counterweights. However, if the bobweight is lighter you may add metal to the crankshaft.
Balancing a motorcycle crankshaft also depends on the type of cylinder. There are three cylinders available-single, two, and multi-cylinders. The vibration which was mentioned earlier is normal especially for engines that do not have balancing counterweights. To reduce the vibration, single-cylinder integrates balancing weights.
Counterweights are installed on the crankshaft to balance the effect of inertia between a heavy piston and the connecting rod in two contrasting motions-reciprocating and rotational. The weight of the piston and connecting rod greatly affects the size and the placement of the counterweight. The heavier the piston-rod is, the heavier the counterweight to be used. Counterweights should be placed in front and rear of the cranks to lighten the crank without blocking the case of the crank.
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Some good info on separating and rebuilding the crank halves here
but you need to be a member to view it
but what about the balancer shaft.
no mate the order still hasn't shown up yet travis
yes it is a little gay:huh but this is not my bike so W,H,F will have to keep looking for a chum
i have heard a rumor that there is a 07 plated XRR around Hervey Bay that has 200k's on the clock sitting in a shed
I got this xrs engine stripped for a refurb in the new year,given it to my son so when he gets older he can come riding with me.....hes a few years off licence age so i should have it ready by then.Going to get a low c/f front mudgaurd and a c/f bashplate,and add the brace from the lhs footpeg mount to the rear of the subframe to help carry the load of the rear tank,should be a good thing
Chuck it in the bin ,overrated
that might be where the secret is:
That stuff above is general info not xr specific ,might help someone split a crank and play around.
also not a xr but back in the day these weirdos used a *#!650 motor,renowned for not being overly powerful, jammed in a 250 chassis for racing.They removed the counterbalancer.
Why would one want to make the xr motor better i was under the impression they was pretty good.