XR650R Thread!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by JustinT, Nov 24, 2008.

  1. SpeedoJosh

    SpeedoJosh Been here awhile

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    Jan 9, 2011
    Oddometer:
    840
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    Florida Panhandle
    I'll give that a try. Weird thing is, I had it running great. Then I changed the vented side plastic for the non-vented one, and this happens. Figured it'd be running rich if anything. Not sure how much airflow those side vents actually ad, but still figured it'd be the other way around.
  2. sintax

    sintax Been here awhile

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    Jan 20, 2010
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    So.Cal

    If you pull the cover off (essentially opening up your air box), does the problem go away? I really dont think the two problems are related to each other. I dont believe that the change in side cover could result in such drastic outcomes.
  3. SpeedoJosh

    SpeedoJosh Been here awhile

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    Jan 9, 2011
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    Florida Panhandle
    I tried that initially, and no change occurred. I'll give the carb a couple clicks and see if that does anything.
    Another thing to note, is that when I changed out the plastics I also put a new tank on. Straight out of the box new, and had to fill it up with the gas can that's been sitting in the back of my buddies truck for awhile. He assured me it was good. But come to think of it, it has to be at least 6 months old, and probably been rained on.
  4. bigtrailie

    bigtrailie Pursuing happiness

    Joined:
    Feb 11, 2005
    Oddometer:
    760
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    Jackson, MI
    I FINALLY got the uncorking procedure right on the XR650R. I removed, disassembled, cleaned then reassembled and reinstalled the carb 3 times. Success! Wow - much power. I'd like to thank all of the guys on this list for all of the assistance.
  5. hontri

    hontri Global Bummer!

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    Nov 6, 2009
    Oddometer:
    307
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    Summerland B.C.
    I'd have to agree with you there. I have 2 xr's both with Eddies and they both had a hanging hi idle. I could get it to drop by putting in gear and letting out the clutch slowly. The cure i used for both of them was to put one more turn in the circular slide return spring.It appeared the slide was not returning completely. It made the throttle slightly stiffer but hardly noticeable.You can check your plunger assembly for wear also.Apparently if the cup wears fuel can leak by and cause a hi idle. Except for that problem my Eddies have worked flawlessly!
  6. jasonlion54

    jasonlion54 Adventurer

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    Feb 12, 2011
    Oddometer:
    66
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    Pacific Northwest
    Don't know if you've solved this or not yet, but I had the exact same problem. It comes from doing the valve adjustment. When you rotate the crank to find TDC, you MUST rotate it ONLY in the FORWARD direction. If you go past the TDC alignment mark by even a quarter inch, and then go backwards to line it up, there is an automatic decompression cam that will kick in and preload one of the exhaust valves. If you do your valve adjustment with this cam engaged, it will be wrong and you will get the noise in your video. Hope this helps!
  7. BuRPsa

    BuRPsa Finally growing up..

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    548
    Location:
    Pretoria
    Jason,

    this is a single - why even look at the marker? Adjust the ex's when the in's are deep-down & vice versa.
    Put bike on stand, take plug out, put in 5th, and turn backwheel fwd until you see them moving - that's all there is to it.
    Just stay away from the 'rocking' point where both valves move, but that's really all.
  8. tannerc

    tannerc Pig Pilot

    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    448
    Location:
    SOuth dakOTA
    I went over backwards and bent my stock exhaust up into the rear fender.. :huh
    Im looking to get a new can and trying to do it as quickly and cheaply as possible..
    ebay is offering up 3 solutions

    DG O-series $160
    FMF powercore 4 $240 ish
    Big gun Evo $240 ish

    Anyone have any experience with these 3 cans, or do i go try to find a stocker anf do the hrc tip..?

    any advice is helpful

    Thanks
  9. DocAxeYarYar

    DocAxeYarYar RideDualSport.com

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    792
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    Your best, low cost, and most reliable option is the stock muffler, opened up with the Honda tip. I bet you can find one on flea-bay at reasonable cost. I am sure all those other pipes are ok, but most likely dont hold up as well as stock can. I am going to run a Leo Vince slip-on on mine, but only because it looks better....I dont expect any increase in performance, and hoping it holds up ok. If not, will go back to my stock can.

    Good luck!
  10. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    Apr 17, 2009
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    Out in the NM Dez somewhere
    +1

    Been doing it that way since I realized what a PITA the factory procedure is :D
  11. XRx

    XRx Broken Filter

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    Bruins Territory
    As usual, you two are full of great advice.
  12. Erndog

    Erndog dirt relocation service

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    Mar 27, 2005
    Oddometer:
    125
    Location:
    Moses Lake, WA
    [​IMG]

    Was goofing around a bit today, thought I'd share....
  13. DocAxeYarYar

    DocAxeYarYar RideDualSport.com

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    792
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    Funny, or not, but learning that it costs $$ just to take parts off, and put them right back on! My XRR is a 2000 model so its already a 12 year old bike! Took off cover off: stator, clutch, oil filter, water pump, ect... for powder coating. Well, all new o-ring gaskets there! Factor in other misc items: exhaust manifold gaskets, few nuts/bolts, air box clamp, clutch lock ring, and others. Ends up at $90 in gaskets, and bits/pieces. Sure I could re-use some o-rings, but why chance it when I have the bike apart now and can replace. I learned same lesson restoring 1984 900 Ninja, hardware and misc bits/parts ate my lunch! Oh well...........
  14. digga1111

    digga1111 bann ed

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    Oct 15, 2009
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    wynnum
    you could always go with the revolutionary design(pat pending) a couple of us are working on here in aus. i call it the oil rotation system. just leave an oil leak here and there so as to allow ..space... in the oil reservoir to regularly top up with new oil, thus allowing longer oil change intervals :1drink
  15. saberstud

    saberstud Been here awhile

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    Aberdeen, MD
  16. babuja

    babuja Been here awhile

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    Jan 30, 2007
    Oddometer:
    361
    Location:
    Luanda, Angola
    Hi guys,

    need some help about valve ajustment. I've never adjusted any valve but I feel the need to do it as I live in angola and can´t find any relieable mechanics and ear some tick tick that I assume is valve need for adjustment.

    This a new bike from 2007 and has about 2000km.

    Where can I find proper info about this job, like valve adjustment for noobies? :lol3

    Tnks guys
  17. Agent2

    Agent2 Been here awhile

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    Apr 28, 2011
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    134
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    Firestorm Alley, California
    This site - http://www.xr650r.us/ is a must read for pig owners. Go to Tech Tidbits and the valve adjust is there. One thing, I don't remove the side cover, just the inspection plug, and center the "T" in there.
  18. Shibby!

    Shibby! Long timer

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    Aug 24, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,679
    Location:
    Currently - Canada

    Easier said then done! =)

    My plug won't even come out anymore. I'm afraid of stripping it.

    Just get it to the right part in the stroke when both valves are fully closed and you can check from there. First few times I'd line up the T though for sure. It's a fine line to get it to that sweet spot though.
  19. babuja

    babuja Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2007
    Oddometer:
    361
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    Luanda, Angola
    Could never open this site: http://www.xr650r.us/


    always get this mesage:

    Forbidden

    You don't have permission to access / on this server.

    Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.

    Apache Server at www.xr650r.us Port 80
  20. BuRPsa

    BuRPsa Finally growing up..

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    548
    Location:
    Pretoria
    "Valve adjustment for noobies"

    'Ere ya are mate, and note this is a com-ple-te-ly different procedure than Honda prints in their manual - however a lot more easy:

    Make sure the engine is cold.
    Take off tank, and wash the engine's top & framebits as the bare minimum.
    Take off the valve covers first, then take out plug (so the small bolts cannot fall into the cylinder - duh).
    Put bike on a stand (jack, not sidestand), and put it in 5th gear.
    Rotate the rear wheel forward - on this, do not EVER rotate it backwards or allow it to turn back (block it with a piece of wood through the spokes or whatever) as even a little of this will mess with the auto-decomp system on this bike which will lift an exhaust valve!! So no 'back', nothing!
    Turn rearwheel fwd until you've convinced yourself that first the intakes go down, then up, and next the exhaust valves do ditto (hey, you said 'noobies' :wink:)
    Turn even more forward, but maybe slower this time, until you actually notice that at a certain point, just when the intakes come up again, the exhaust valves ALSO start to move - which is correct, any 4stroke does this, not to worry.
    Now rotate the wheel slow, very slow, until the exhaust valves are just about at their deepest point... then stop rotating, and block the wheel if necessary.
    Now adjust the intake valves as per below.
    To adjust the exhaust valves you turn (again, always forward only) the wheel until the intake valves are somewhere at their deepest point. As a sidenote, the exhaust valves are more difficult to reach on this bike, less handspace available.

    Adjusting valves.
    Valveplay is to be: Intake: 0.15mm (0.006"), Exhaust 0.20mm (0.008").
    The valves to adjust will have some play, they are loose, which can be felt, so check this, move the rocker up & down - see? If no play make sure (by rotating rear wheel forward, see above) that the other valves are quite a bit down if not fully down. If this is the case but you still feel no play then know you did postpone adjusting for too long, the play's gone... which is a bad thing.
    However, there normally is a bit of play.
    Take the correct-thickness feeler gauge and make sure it is spotlessly clean - then try to slide it inbetween rocker & valve. They slide-in best sideways, but find your own best way.
    If it goes in - just - and feels not too tight but also not too loose (this is experience which noobies do not have, sorry, however they can learn this by doing all this often) then that valve is set perfect.
    If either too loose or when the feeler gauge won't go in, undo the locking-nut with a ringspanner (10mm, spotlessly clean - and only morons use open ended spanners) whilst holding the actual adjuster with a well-fitting screwdriver (which also is spotlessly clean). The idea is to loose the nut whilst the adjuster stays where it is. Once loose wind the nut a half turn up (more loose).
    Now turn the adjuster with the screwdriver-only (yes, the nut will also turn) until the feeler gauge just goes in & and can be slid to & fro - just, tot too loose, not too tight.
    Now hold the adjuster into position with the screwdriver whilst you turn the nut tight - of course by sliding the screwdriver through the ringspanner. Watchitnow, this only sounds easy, but in practise the adjuster wants to turn with the nut when tightening it - and it may not turn!
    Try, fiddle & try again, but get the nut locked whilst the feeler gauge still just slides inbetween the adjuster & rocker. If this is the case then the valve is set correctly... so proceed with the other one(s).
    How much torque for those nuts? Never mind the manual, they must be tight whilst not over-tightened (refer remark above regarding experience), but basic gutfeel will get you there. MIND though, it is less than the force you needed to loosen them in the first place! There is oil now inbetween you see, so this lubes the lot now. Apply a bit less for tightening than for taking them loose.

    If this all reads daunting then relax, there's a way to check yourself.
    Say you 'think' you set the In's to 0.15 - because this size feeler goes in.
    Good - does the 0.20 also go in?
    It should not, so if it does re-adjust that valve, but a notch tighter this time.
    Got a 0.18 feeler in the set? This one should not go in either, however with enough force one can do anything... or cut your fingers :lol3


    Once you get handier with this, here's an idea. Next time, before you loosen the nuts, you first measure what the actual play is! You may want to write this down for later, may come in handy. Valves 'move' you see, they normally become tighter over time (due to wear), and at a certain point in life this goes quick to fast even... and this point you want to notice, before it get really expensive. This is the time where you take the top off, however, with your new bike this is a loooong way to go still.

    Have fun doing this. If you really will be doing this for the first time I'd advise to, after having adjusted all, rotate the wheel again a bit, and then check your own settings. If done correct it all will be fine, but this will give you piece of mind. Also check all nuts before you close her up - and if you turn one then you must re-adjust that valve again.