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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by JustinT, Nov 24, 2008.
Nice trail! Amazing scenes ! I miss the US ground!
thank for videos Bro!
I have enjoyed watching that , thank you for sharing RF
OK, flog the thing, but keep that cam running here ;-)
Just bought some off ebay. 380 U.S. dollars with free shipping. Best price I found. Good luck. FYI, If you buy the unibiker rad gaurds, ask for the wide ones that fit the fluidyne radiators. Cheers.
I'm having some clearance issues between the chain guide and wide rims.
Its kinda hard to see in the picture but the nut is dangerously close to the tire. Is there a aftermarket chain guide that gives more clearance? Is the chain guide needed for mostly street/forest service roads?
Better picture of the whole bike.
Bill, if you have more room on the other side, you can adjust the spokes to move the rim to the right side. Just loosen the spokes on the left one turn each, tighten the spokes on the right one turn each, and repeat until it is centered.
Quick fix: flip the bolts around so the nut faces to the outside of the swingarm
I looked at that, the problem is the heads are counter sunk on the wrong side. I can counter sink the other side and use big washers on the nuts. Just not a real clean solution.
Here is what i did.4 years and no problem!
My buddy just left his off altogether. No problems either.
hey thanks, that looks like a good solution.
Also make sure that the wheel spacers are in the correct side. Just realized after having the same problems with my Warp9's that the spacers are different offset, so I swapped them, and no more issues.
Here is another option... this is exactly what I did to mine, works great.
same issue form me in the past
, with 4.25 rims simply rotate the bolts and keep the nut outside istead inside (not very beautiful but works)
with 5" rim cut the inner plastic wall of the chain guide near the rim..
That is what I did to mine and it works well. I have a xrs only chain guide too(I use it with my dirt set) and it does not fit at all with a supermoto rim. The modified stocker works better.
Need a bit of help. I started working on this over a month ago but I had to leave the country. I replaced my clutch center after one of the bolts broke out and hit the cover. I finally got around to putting it all back in today, I didn't try to crank it. The clutch isn't working at all. I put it in neutral and it rolls fine, I kick it in gear and hold the clutch and nothing. The only thing I know of I did wrong was when I put the clutch push rod in, the bike wasn't in neutral. Is this most likely my problem? If I pull the cover off and the pressure plate, and move that rod around do you think it'll pop down somewhere where it should be and work? If not, I have no idea what's going on.
I would open it back up and check to see if you put everything in right. If you did then check the adjustment.
When in gear and you pull in the clutch lever, you say "nothing". What do you mean exactly? Does the rear wheel not spin? The clutch rod shouldn't be affected by the transmission gear position when you install it. It just transfers the action through the motor to the clutch pack.
I'm guessing that your clutch plates are sticking a bit since it's sat for some time. With cold oil, there is quite a bit of viscosity to overcome to get the friction and drive plates to "let loose". Try putting the bike in a taller gear, pull in the clutch and then try to spin the rear wheel again. Or, put the bike on the ground (again in a taller gear), pull in the clutch AND decompression levers, and slowly rotate the kickstarter through it's range. That should break the friction and drive plates.
I have a set of these tanks up for sale ......ill show you guys first
These are very rare and not available to ya avrage punter
they hold 44 ltrs full exelent setup for long haul
these cost me 515 bucks so thats what there up forsale as
no mounting kit ..has to made by the owner ..not a real big job but skills are needed to fit them
the set i have forsale are clear IE white looking
pm me for more details ... i will post them anywhere
Sorry to bug you, but I have a problem that's driving me crazy!
I overhauled the top end of my piggy(piston rings, valves, seats, springs, camshaft bearings...you get the idea).
I dismantled the carb, cleaned it, set the level, needle setting(the needle is new)...etc.
1) the bike starts very hard
2) when it starts, the idle goes wild(from normal to 3000 revs)
3) very litle response from the air screw(new as well)
4) when I rev it, it dies after releasing the throtle
I suspect an air leak due to worn carb body and throtle valve(the only thing I didn't check). The intake boot is new.
I had this problem before the top end work, but it intensified after. More vacum/compression=more air leaking => leaner mixture??
I found crf 450 carburetors(FCR 41) on ebay. I'm thinking about buying one.
What say you?