XR650R Thread!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by JustinT, Nov 24, 2008.

  1. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

    Joined:
    Apr 17, 2009
    Oddometer:
    8,757
    Location:
    Out in the NM Dez somewhere
    Hanging idle is usally too tight of cables or the valves are too tight. When the cables are too tight the work against each other to hold the slide up for a period of time, when it does come down the other adjustments may be off not letting it idle. Check the freeplay at the grip and make sure it will rotate back and forth a little bit (ensuring they aren't too tight) To check for a cable prob forcebly close the throttle after a rev so the push cable pulls the slide down, if the revs drops down immediately then it's a cable issue.

    If the valves are too tight it makes all kinds of wierd running cond including hanging idle and failure to idle. I've seen some pretty worn carbs that had no adverse effect on the running, I'm sure that could happen esp since we can't really see how bad the carb is but it'd be very unusual.

    It's not uncommon for the valves to settle in the head a good bit right after a topend job, that would cause them to tighten up relatively quickly. Tight valves = hard starting also. Im thinking that's the issue.
  2. achile

    achile Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2007
    Oddometer:
    289
    Location:
    Brasov, Romania

    The cable is new and oiled, freeplay is fine, valve clearence is in specs, timing is fine. I started the bike with a makeshift gas tank, without the cable. The bike revs itself up, dosen't respond to air screw movement.
    It's driving me crazy.

    Update:
    Went to the garage, took off the carb.
    -the throtle valve rotates around it's center(left-right) and the lower gap changes in size
    -the valve has a bit of play and can rattle back and forth
    -the levers that operate the throtle valve are worn

    I will take the carb apart and check the extent of the wear.
  3. jm-2008

    jm-2008 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2008
    Oddometer:
    577
    Location:
    South Eastern Australia
    ACHILE -

    -the throtle valve rotates around it's center(left-right) and the lower gap changes in size

    This make me wonder if the slide has not been placed correctly on its alignment pin.
    If in the correct position you should not be able to rotate the slide.
    This will effectively hold it open causing it to rev like mad and not respond to air screw.
    Remove the top cover and rotate the slide till it finds the alignment pin.
    If set correctly the slides cutaway will be on the intake (air filter side)


    JM-2008
  4. Cpt. Ron

    Cpt. Ron Advrider #128

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2001
    Oddometer:
    3,602
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    There has been obvious concern with Edlebrock not providing replacement parts for their pumper carburetor. One difficult part to source is the cup on the accelerator pump, especially if the bike sits for length of time with ethanol fuel left in it. I don't have a source yet for an exact part, but I have found out that it is a 1/2" diameter cup. Similar to what is found here:

    http://quadrajetparts.com/rochester...buretor-accelerator-pump-assembly-p-1056.html

    Or here:

    http://www.mikescarburetor.com/Holley-1909-Accelerator-Pump-Cup_p_1060.html

    Good hunting.
  5. Unsung

    Unsung Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2012
    Oddometer:
    60
    I read that it should be in Neutral when installed the push rod so that it is properly seated. I put the bike in gear and pull the clutch and it will not roll. I had the clutch discs out, oiled each pieces separately and stuck them in one at a time, then poured a bit more oil at the top so it would go in between the discs.
  6. larryboy

    larryboy Chopper Rider

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    17,290
    Location:
    Über Alles,California

    That's how a wet clutch works, go for a ride.
  7. Unsung

    Unsung Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 14, 2012
    Oddometer:
    60
    Thank the lord, I think that is the problem. I ran it for 30 seconds to check the oil, about to top it off. After I ran it I put it in gear and clutch it, and if I rock it twice it breaks loose and rolls good. I am trying to top this oil off, I've put 1 quart and a 1/4 in it just about, and it stays on the bottom centimeter of the dipstick. Every time I add more, it doesn't move. I think maybe if I start it I'll get better results? My question is, from the bottom of the dipstick to the upper mark, how much oil fills that gap? Another question I have is with the chain. I put a new chain on it, used a tool to rivet the masterlink in. One side of the masterlink is a little tighter I guess, because it's not letting the chain flex at that pivot point as easily as the rest of the chain, is this a problem? I can make it flex if I grab it and do it.

    I've put so much new stuff on this thing, can't wait to ride it. It had a silencer in the pipe that was probably robbing it of a lot of power. I went from a 48t to a 43t rear sprocket. Has new streetable tires on it as opposed to the dirtbike ones it had before. Riding this thing tomorrow will probably feel like a completely different bike.

    On a side note, I had a problem with my clutch handle sticking when I clutched it 100% sometimes, I just realised it's the handguard bracket catching the end of the lever when it's fully compressed.
  8. larryboy

    larryboy Chopper Rider

    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2005
    Oddometer:
    17,290
    Location:
    Über Alles,California

    After a quick oil/filter change I just dump in 1.5 quarts to get me started. Check the oil with the engine idling is how I do it, about .5 from the bottom mark to the top. If you really work at it you can get the full 2.1 quarts out of the thing if you don't rush the oil change.

    Get a sight glass kit for peace of mind, riding down the road you can just clutch it and let it idle, glance down and check the oil level.
  9. brucifer

    brucifer Long timer

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    Nov 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,686
    Location:
    Eureka, Ca.
    That internal linkage was the source of hanging idle on my last 650R. I bought all new linkage components, installed them and the hanging idle was completely gone.
  10. Cpt. Ron

    Cpt. Ron Advrider #128

    Joined:
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    I've found the bike needs to be really warm to get an accurate oil reading. I'm talking like at least a ten minute ride, if not more. Just idling in your driveway isn't enough to get it warm and circulated. If you top off the oil when it's not warmed up, you'll end up with too much. From the minimum to maximum mark, I believe it's only 0.5 liters if memory serves me correctly. I've found that after doing a filter and oil change, if I fill the "tank" up to the very maximum when cold, it's good enough to run to get it warm to then get a final level check.

    As for you master link, I'd run it but keep an eye on it. You won't be able to loosen it up after riveting it too tight, but you can replace it later if it doesn't loosen up.
  11. Unsung

    Unsung Adventurer

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    60
    Good idea. I realised how cold it was outside, so I let it run until the clutch cover got nice and warm, then checked it, and I'm good to go.
  12. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    Out in the NM Dez somewhere
    :clap
  13. achile

    achile Been here awhile

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    Brasov, Romania
    The valve has a gap cut into it for the arm...I saw no guiding pin, but the holes and the axels of the linkage are enlarged and I think this is the problem. The right-left movement has a lot of amplitude.


    @ Brucifer

    Did it start easyer?
    Did it respond to the air screw adjustments before/after?
  14. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    I think the side to side is normal, up-n-down is a different story.
  15. brucifer

    brucifer Long timer

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    My bike was pretty close to spot on with the jetting and float adjustment so it always started easy before and after. The mixture screw worked fine before and after as well.

    :getiton
  16. BuRPsa

    BuRPsa Finally growing up..

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    Oddometer:
    548
    Location:
    Pretoria

    PM sent Sean, I want them.

    PS thanks Beserker :wink:
  17. Shibby!

    Shibby! Long timer

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    Currently - Canada

    Read your manual.


    It's a dry sump motor.

    I normally fill mine after an oil change with 1 liter, let run for a minute, stop, and start filling the last .6 or .8 depending if I changed the filter or not.

    If you put over 1 liter ( quart) it will overfill. Just go off rough actual volumes for an oil change, then on your first ride make sure you check the oil after a short ride.

    I normally check my oil everytime I fill gas or before every ride. Good practice, especially with these bikes.

    I dont have a sight tube.
  18. Shibby!

    Shibby! Long timer

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    Dooo ittt!!

    Order some BIG springs while you're at it too.

    I'd love a tank like that, just not sure where I'd need 750+ Km/tank.

    Guess on a long trip you can skip filling in countries with expensive gas... =)
  19. stinkfinger

    stinkfinger Chickenfat dirtbiker

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,262
    Location:
    North Mississippi
    I went with the eibach's(rear,12.5(stiffest)) and am very happy.
    Something to note tho, the initial compression is actually SOFTER
    than stock. When i sat on it for the first time I thought there was
    a mixup, but no, its great! Never bottoms, yet offers a a soft ride
    in the mild stuff. I suspect that a 170-200lb rider wldnt even be able to
    tell that this was a 12.5kg, as the first half of travel is so soft.
    Way better to get too stiff, than too soft in the progresivly wound
    stuff, in my opinion.

    Tony
  20. Shibby!

    Shibby! Long timer

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    That's often because if the spring is compressed too far you're changing where you are in the stroke. Higher up, softer dampening, lower down, stiffer dampening. Hence the harshness on mild stuff with a softer spring.

    Suspension is nothing without the proper springs installed.