XR650R Thread!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by JustinT, Nov 24, 2008.

  1. AirCommando

    AirCommando Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2010
    Oddometer:
    50
    Location:
    Ramstein, Germany
    What spring rates are you using in the forks? Have you done any re-valving or modified the factory valves? Can I ask how much you weigh? Thanks for the info.
  2. kaijb

    kaijb ianb

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2010
    Oddometer:
    120
    Location:
    Sydney
    Look at the diagram below and where the Link Arm slides on to the Throttle Drum. There is a (split pin/roll pin) that holds them together. (you can see the hole on the throttle drum shaft as provision for it to pass through.

    Your roll pin is flogged out allowing the link arm to move fractionally which is the basis for your issues. The roll pin is a one cent part but can cost much more when she does not shut off in to a corner.

    The old pin will press out and the new one will tap in.
    [​IMG]
  3. jm-2008

    jm-2008 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2008
    Oddometer:
    568
    Location:
    South Eastern Australia
    I saw no guiding pin,

    Achile,
    You are correct.
    Had my carbies mixed up.
    Apologies for any confusion.

    JM-2008
  4. stinkfinger

    stinkfinger Chickenfat dirtbiker

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,256
    Location:
    North Mississippi
    I didnt change the stock fork springs or modded, just fresh fluid+adjust.
    7wt if i remember correctly. I have no doubt it could use
    some stiffer front springs,but it just is not that bad, so i never got around
    to it. I'm 300lbs and the biggest prob i had was bottoming the rear.
    Even figuring the preload setting differential between a softer/stiffer
    spring, I think you'll find the progressivly wound stuff is just a different
    breed from stock in the way it behaves and I still would buy a stiffer
    spring than what is reccomended, because of the way the progressive
    winding acts at speed. Just my opinion,

    Tony
  5. Beserker

    Beserker Red Rider

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2007
    Oddometer:
    94
    Location:
    Down South
  6. Beserker

    Beserker Red Rider

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2007
    Oddometer:
    94
    Location:
    Down South
    +1 .. with proper springs you can tune it to cater for a wide range of conditions. To soft, and you can only tune it for not bottoming out, and all the rest is a compromise in terms of suspension quality.

    I have a chart that will tell you what spring rate you need considering your weight (You + luggage + fuel) If you need it, drop me a pm (It has a jetting table on, a gear ratio calculator etc etc)
  7. BuRPsa

    BuRPsa Finally growing up..

    Joined:
    Feb 5, 2011
    Oddometer:
    548
    Location:
    Pretoria

    Correct, plus then East to the Indian Ocean. Can't have fuel enough, and what better place to carry it than in this tank? Turns out to be new too, and here's me asking Sean if it still was somewhat presentable..... call me Dick from now on bru :rofl
    Sean reminded me I'll need an underslung exhaust, so I'll start thinking about that as well. Mind, would give me a chance to fit a watertank under the R-panel then too, so now I got even more work cut out :wink:
  8. Beserker

    Beserker Red Rider

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2007
    Oddometer:
    94
    Location:
    Down South
    Reynard at Scorch is your man...a real artist.
  9. AirCommando

    AirCommando Adventurer

    Joined:
    Feb 4, 2010
    Oddometer:
    50
    Location:
    Ramstein, Germany
    Can anybody recommend some good brake pads for my BRP?

    Thank you
  10. Lostsaffa

    Lostsaffa Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 17, 2011
    Oddometer:
    696
    Location:
    Carina, Brisbane
    OEM are the best I have used, believe it or not!
  11. slickwill

    slickwill Exhiled

    Joined:
    Dec 31, 2011
    Oddometer:
    209
    Location:
    Ohio
    Same here.

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
  12. BigNastybrp

    BigNastybrp Big Nasty

    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2007
    Oddometer:
    696
    Location:
    high speed boogie land, Sunny Ca.
    I like the EBC red pads, oem are good as well.
  13. Beserker

    Beserker Red Rider

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2007
    Oddometer:
    94
    Location:
    Down South
    The red EBC ones look "Factory" and lasts! (Or maybe I'm slow)
  14. achile

    achile Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2007
    Oddometer:
    289
    Location:
    Brasov, Romania
    The two pins are worn and the holes are oval. The bolts from a 520 master link are the perfect size. I sent them to a machine shop. They called me today to inform me that the link is ready for pick-up. 10 $ :deal
    If I would have ordered the new parts, it would have cost me about 80$.





    :)) Don't worry, mate... I get them mixed up also.






    SO....for all you piggy owners with crazy idles, check the linkage. The cheap way to fix them is replacing the pins and boring bigger holes.
  15. Shibby!

    Shibby! Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,680
    Location:
    Currently - Canada

    I had relatively worn front Honda pads on when I started my last trip. I had back-ups to repace them on the trip when needed. 28,000 KM's and I still haven't replaced the damn set.

    They are worn down pretty far, and they were working in relatively "clean" environment, but I'm shocked they are hanging in there with moderate to sometimes heavy use at all speeds.

    My back-ups are cheap alternatives, but I will no doubt be buying Honda if I have to replace again.

    By clean I was refering to mostly gravel, dirt, and pavement use. The bike wasn't cleaned once in almost 5 months of riding (it's bad luck).
  16. Ridin Dirty

    Ridin Dirty What day is it?

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    189
    Location:
    WMASS
    Last year was terrible and my BRP only saw the light a couple times. I now have a fun ride scheduled for this Summer. Time to stop the procrastination and take care of some much needed maintenance. I have a long list of things I'm going to touch. Not sure if I should start my own thread but I'll start here for now.

    I plan on lacing up new rims, adding more electrical items (fuse box, fan, aux), "doing the swingarm", wheel/suspension bearings (lube & replace), chain/sprockets, oil sight tube and any other stuff I have time for. I may be biting off more than I can chew. I have a few months but not much actual shop time because of work and family. So I appreciate any advice.

    My first order of business is to source a swingarm tool. I haven't touched the swingarm and I need to get to those poor (destroyed) bearings. I imagine that it's a mess in there. My plan is to get the nut off and soak it (a long time)until I try to wrestle it out. I have other things to work on so I don't need to rush it or panic. I understand that I can make a tool with a cutting wheel and socket. I'd prefer to find a proven tool before I put my fabrication skills to the test. Where can I buy one? Anyone want to loan me theirs?
  17. DocAxeYarYar

    DocAxeYarYar RideDualSport.com

    Joined:
    Aug 25, 2008
    Oddometer:
    792
    Location:
    Austin, TX
    Hey best of luck on doing some work on your bike! The swingarm pivot on my bike was pretty well corroded where it goes though the engine cases. Lots of penetrating oil is needed let it soak for several days, keep applying. I used a brass drift to pound out the pivot, be gentle as you can.

    Here is the pivot bolt, fairly corroeded, but covered in Liquid Wrench when I took it out. *

    [​IMG]


    On Ebay I found this seller Turbo Suzukis that makes custom stainless steel tools. I paid via PayPal, a total of 31 GBP, or $49 including shipping. They arrived at my house one week later! These are very high quality and have a 1/2 drive on the back so you can use a tourque wrench.

    You can reach Kev Drake directly at: TURBOSUZUKIS@YAHOO.CO.UK

    He was very responsive and helpful. Highly recommended!

    These tools fit outer and inner locking rings on the swingarm. Its important to put the right tourque on the adjusting bolt to get the correct tension on the swingarm. Hope this helps!

    [​IMG]
  18. Ridin Dirty

    Ridin Dirty What day is it?

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    189
    Location:
    WMASS
    That's exactly what I need! Hopefully in a few weeks I'll have parts sourced and start tearing things down. I don't have enough heat in my garage to overcome negative temperatures anyway!:vardy
  19. stinkfinger

    stinkfinger Chickenfat dirtbiker

    Joined:
    Aug 13, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,256
    Location:
    North Mississippi
  20. lstzephyr

    lstzephyr Solo con rambo

    Joined:
    Jul 13, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,781
    Location:
    Huntsville, Al
    Alright I'm bumping this back up with new components and even less of a guess. There was another guy a while back that asked us to check some cdi's for him. Does anyone know if he got it fixed and what was wrong? I'm running low on ideas.

    Edit: I started a thread to try to get more opinions so feel free to answer either there or here. Both posts are identical. http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=20574772#post20574772

    Any help would be greatly appreciated!