XR650R Thread!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by JustinT, Nov 24, 2008.

  1. TJE

    TJE Space Emperor

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2009
    Oddometer:
    72
    Hey guys!

    Noob here! Got a BRP this weekend and is well impressed with it. My other bike is an XVR750, so really enjoying the torque and the lightness of the XRR ...

    I have one 'issue' that bugs me a bit ... when I let go of the gas in 1st or 2nd, and the engine starts to decelerate, it's really hard to smoothly pick up acceleration again. It's like it'll only catch on quick, giving a sudden yank, not a smooth pick up. I'm not talking about bringing it down to very low revs ... just engine breaking a bit.

    Does that make sense? Since this is my first thumper, I have no idea if this normal?

    The same seems to happens when changing from 1st to 2nd gear. Very hard to do it smoothly, unless I rev 1st gear a bit more than I would think is necessary.

    Thanks in advance!

    /Thomas
  2. BuRPsa

    BuRPsa Finally growing up..

    Joined:
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    Pretoria
    Ha Chris, then you'll like this one too: take apart, use Hylomar Blue (never setting gasket maker paste) instead of grease, and ride until the Earth ends - and screw Mayans too :lol3
    OK, a trick mainly for hard/brittle rubber parts of oldtimers for which you cannot get parts, but run it will. Way better than silicon as the Hylomar 'glue' easily comes loose again. Ah, NO Allan, go buy a new boot ya hear? :rofl
    Agree with pullstarting, and he should know to drop hard in the saddle the moments he lets the clutch go.
    Must say, I'm curious as to what it will turn out to be!
  3. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    I'll check out the Hylomar Blue, hadn't heard of it but I agree, RTV is a poor repair for a rubber manifold problem.

    Tje, the symptoms you described could be a number of things but it mostly sounds out of tune, probably the carb. Since you just got it, I'd go through everything, verify the valve adj, jetting, float height and overall setup like cable adjustments, specifically throttle and decompression freeplay. Blow out/verify all the carb passages while it's apart. I'd verify it's decorked. Doing this will familiarize you with the bike which will be invaluable when you have an issue in the middle of nowhere and you'll be surprised how out of tune previous owners will let a bike get. Also get a manual and read this thread start to end, it will educate you :D

    Your chain looks a little tight too :D
  4. BuRPsa

    BuRPsa Finally growing up..

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    Pretoria
    Xmoto - congrats, it looks the biz!
    And now go change your avatar to a single then?


    TJE, Welcome, and - you didn't expect anything else here did you? - you bought the best bike there is!
    I'd start taking the carb off, apart and clean it - so you know it's not that. Floatlevel 19mm (not 18) will prevent pissing fuel when leant over. Also, on the lhs there's a small cover under which a spring & membrane lives, and the cover itself has a tiny hole/passage in it... block it, use a droplet of epoxy or silicon. This system leans off the mixture on overrun, and may be the cause of what you experience.
    But, allow me to be thick, your bike is "un-corked", like in opened up? Scratch here using the search function if you dunno how to check, but this bit you need to do first in any case - and luckily for you that includes disassembly of the carb in any case (to change a few parts).
    And, new2you means checking oilscreen(s), renewing oilfilter & checking/cleaning airfilter, fresh oil incl checking the oil-level - go read how the latter must be done first before you call me thick indeed :wink:
    And read a lot here in this thread, you'll learn plenty which you must know about this bike.
    Have fun doing all this, it's a grrreeaat bike!
  5. Lostsaffa

    Lostsaffa Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 17, 2011
    Oddometer:
    696
    Location:
    Carina, Brisbane
    If you are not used to dirt bikes, which don't have Cush drives like road bikes it does seem like they jerk when tapping on and off the throttle, especially a beast single like the XR650R. It may be something like Burpsa suggests, but could also just be because these types of bikes are new to you.
  6. Xmoto

    Xmoto Death Race

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    Schodack,NY
    Can someone tell me if a front wheel from a XR650L will fit a R.
  7. Xmoto

    Xmoto Death Race

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    Thanks. I still have a twin also :clap.
  8. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    Buell, I like the red!

    Powdercoating is def the way to go if you want a decent rehab of the cases, I just finished building an XR4 and had the cases done in a flat black satin powdercoat, it ran about $100 which is pricey bit it really made the bike look better (I painted in the lettering to add a little bling :lol3)

    Sand out any scratches before taking it to them and make sure you wash out everything very well afterwards, they have to bead blast the parts prior to the PC and there will probably be some silicate left on the internals.

    crappy phone picture.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  9. jules083

    jules083 Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2011
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    5,777
    Location:
    Richmond, Ohio
    Ridefreak, that bike is sweet. :thumb


    I'm finally getting around to my winter maintenance, planning on a rear suspension grease/check, remove the lowering block and restore factory height, fork rebuild, grease steering stem bearings. Motor shouldn't need touched at this point, just a valve check and oil change.

    For the guys with the 'left' rear fender, How'd you fix it? It's more of an annoyance than anything, but on mine the tire rubs on the side of the fender and the muffler is shimmed out about 3/4". The goal is 'better' rather than 'perfect', but I'd accept perfect also. :D Pictures coming as soon I hope, internet is running slow today.

    Any surprises I'm going to run into pulling the swingarm? I'm partway through making the swingarm tools, and have a shop manual. Just wondering if I'm going to run into something. As you all know the manual keeps talking about special tools that we don't have.

    Grease- I normally use Mobil one synthetic, should I use something else? I've never heard good or bad about the mobil one, I just know we use it on some very expensive things at work. From my experiance things made for motorcycles are triple in price compared to similar automotive or industrial items but may not be any better quality,
  10. walkergreenlabel

    walkergreenlabel Been here awhile

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    Mar 18, 2010
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    198
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    Oakville, ON
    I thought i read on the thread where you can get a replacement gasket for the stock petcock. i did search but didnt find it. i think i need a new one. anyone know where to get one cheap:D? i would get the clarke petcock for $20 but its on/off only, no reserve. i would be stuck in the woods for sure if the reserve reminder wasnt there.
  11. RideFreak

    RideFreak Torque Junkie

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    8,591
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    Out in the NM Dez somewhere
    I haven't been able to find the gasket only, ended up having to get a $45 OE petcock off e-bay from Honda of Toledo. I had a Clarke petcock on a Clarke tank, couldn't get it to seal along the edge for anything, I tried a making a gasket, different sized orings, fuel sealant goop, go figure. I replaced it with the new OE unit and it sealed up fine right off the bat so I'll sell ya a Clarke petcock cheap :D
  12. Xmoto

    Xmoto Death Race

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    After doing a little reading I see This question is asked a lot. Looks like no, different axle sizes.
  13. TJE

    TJE Space Emperor

    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2009
    Oddometer:
    72
    Many many thanks, RideFreak, BuRPsa and Lostsaffa!!! I should have given a bit of background on the bike. Sorry about that. It's gone 11k km, and is indeed uncorked. It also has a new carb (original) and standard jetting. Exhaust is standard, and there's a 4.6 gallon IMS tank on it. She's been very well kept, and had most other things like cables, handlebars, pegs, airfilter replaced. Oils been replaced every 1000km, and she has a non-standard ratio sprockets.

    One issue I forgot to mention, and which may also be due to my inexperience with big thumpers, is a metallic clanking noise coming from the cylinder area. I'm thinking valves or a loose bolt, but then again, I'm not even sure I know what bad valves sound like. Best description would be a metallic rattle, like something is loose, but I can't find anything loose. Judging by some youtube clips of other XRR's, it does indeed sound different. Doesn't sound like it's coming from the clutch area, but I need to check again to make sure.

    She really pulls very well, but then again, I don't know what standard is, and my AT is certainly nothing to compare by!

    I think I'll make a video and try to catch the rattling noise, and post here.

    Thanks again, much appreciated!
  14. BuRPsa

    BuRPsa Finally growing up..

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    Pretoria
    "Normal" greases will dissolve in water, and it is for this reason why I use 'water-resistant' grease. A 1Kg jar lasts a long time when used for wheelbearings, swingarm & wheel axles, steering stem etc, and by all means fill any handlebar-switchgear with it too.
  15. lstzephyr

    lstzephyr Solo con rambo

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    1,781
    Location:
    Huntsville, Al
    My understanding was that the xr650l/xr600r front wheel will fit with a bearing change. I know that nx250 front wheels do fit with a bearing change. I have a cbr900r front rim on my bike with a ....bearing change. If you check the bearing OD spec of different wheels you can figure out if the wheel can be made to fit. A spacer may be needed but spacers are pretty straightforward.

    It is probably easier to just fit a R wheel as they run close to the same price.
  16. stuntheavy

    stuntheavy Been here awhile

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    Jan 8, 2013
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    155
    Location:
    Tejas
    What kind of range are you guys gettinf out of the 4.3-4.6gal tanks? I'm building a bike for the TAT.

    Think its doable? Or should I go for the 7?

    Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk 2
  17. Shibby!

    Shibby! Long timer

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    1,680
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    Currently - Canada

    Donno about the TAT, but the 4.3 has issues with the CDT.

    My 6.3 handles better then my 4.3 almost all the time. No comparison. I love the Acerbis better than my 4.3, which sits on a shelf..
  18. Cpt. Ron

    Cpt. Ron Advrider #128

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    The extra-large tanks like the Acerbis 6-gal do provide an excellent amount of radiator protection from sideways tip-overs. I never have noticed the sloshing of the fuel with half-empty tanks, and you don't HAVE to fill them up all the way for those shorter sections....But you WILL notice the difference in suspension when the tank is full.
  19. Shibby!

    Shibby! Long timer

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    Currently - Canada

    I'd sooner ride my 6.3 full than my 4.3 full.

    That says a lot.

    My suspension is revalved and resprung though. I'm 200ish without gear. I could stand to have a bit firmer springs both front and rear when loaded down. Problem is I do a varying degree of riding from trail days with no load to full on trip with 70lbs of gear.
  20. Sean-0

    Sean-0 straya carnt

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    4,939
    Location:
    Mumblebum Northern NSW
    6.3 is nothin .......mine holds that then i add bladder bags for a total of 12 gal

    bladders hang over the side of the tank ...now thats some weight ....suspension is workin over time when fully loaded ...but i dont motorcroos the bike when she's got full weight on


    on another front ..we are making some steal rear subframes ..made out of box steal ...better that globtotting subframes ..as we keep them box section same as stock and add gussets to give more strength ....
    we test them out very soon :clap

    we need to carry 12 gl of fuel and 3 gal of water for our desert trip later this yr