XR650R Thread!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by JustinT, Nov 24, 2008.

  1. FlyGuy

    FlyGuy MachineHead

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    Do the easy things first.
    Set Idle mixture to peak rpm then go richer till you notice a decrease in rpm.
    (CCW)
    test ride and evaluate you might try more mixture again if it helps?
    from there you need to plan to remove the carburetor
    Check float height (16mm) if higher than >16mm adjust float and re test if a fairly big adjustment was necessary.
    if lower than or close to <16mm raise the needle (lower the clip)

    Then again you ask if its a typical symptom of the stock carburetor?
    you cant expect the stock carb to take on large and fast throttle changes from low RPMs
    it should be able to respond well to appropriate throttle control though.

    Hope that helps
  2. cragdweller

    cragdweller Adventurer

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    Jul 2, 2012
    Oddometer:
    47
    My 2000 has its rearend pushed to the left when viewing from behind. I know this is a common thing on these bikes. I'm not sure if mine was that way when it was new, at least not to the degree it is now. Has anyone had any luck fixing this? I've read alot of posts on the subject and I've tried tweaking the subframe with a large pipe with no luck. It actually does not appear to be bent, but seems like it was built that way. Is the tweak in the subframe or in the plastic? I don't really want to apply any more force than I've already tried to the subframe, don't want to break a weld. Are later model subframes straighter? New plastic? Thanks
  3. larryboy

    larryboy Chopper Rider

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    I think you're getting into that gigantic main jet too soon, I'd start dropping the needle if you want to run it that rich.
  4. jwalters

    jwalters Farkle Proliferator

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    Thanks guys for the input, I appreciate it.

    First things first, I'm going to remeasure my float level. Maybe it was tweaked when I rebuilt my carb this winter. If the fuel wasn't high enough in the bowl that could explain my symptoms because at higher rpm you have more venturi pressure to suck the fuel up. I've been playing with the idle mixture and various jet/needle positions
  5. slickwill

    slickwill Exhiled

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    My bike is built way beyond what you're describing and I run a 70s pilot. I've had it on the dyno at 600ft and the A/F was perfect. I think you'd have a hard time coming up with a situation where you'd ever need a 72 pilot if my bike doesn't need it. For comparison I run a 192 main jet most of the year, 190 when it's REALLY hot and humid, 195 when it's really cold.

    Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk 2
  6. graygoat657

    graygoat657 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2013
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    392
    Location:
    in the woods
    So I joined the Porcine Patrol with the purchase of a 2003. Did a quick shake down shred, and found a out the DS kit the previous owner installed has some errant behavior. If I flick the right blinker on, works (pretty much) like it should. Flick the left blinker and the head light blinks:eek1. On top of that no brake or tail light (have yet to put a meter on things), and the whole system likes to have a bit of throttle to operate. The battery still seems alive (strong horn when engine off).
    Any one run into something like this? Thinking its going to be some hours of poking and prodding.
  7. larryboy

    larryboy Chopper Rider

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    Lean it out. Do you have a screen kit on the airbox cover? Take it for a quick whip without the cover on it, I bet the stutter is gone. Or drop the needle.
  8. PeteN95

    PeteN95 Long timer

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    That is what happened when I added a header and cam, I had to drop the needle and go up 3 jet sizes, currently 180, because it went lean on top and fat in the middle. That last dyno run he said it needed another bigger jet and a pilot, now at 70.
  9. XR650Gnar

    XR650Gnar Adventurer

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    Jan 23, 2012
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    14
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    Wasatch Front
    I just rebuilt pretty much the whole bike including the engine, ended up modifying the side panel for airflow and going with a stage 1 cam which required me to go to the third clip on the B53E needle and bumping from a 165 main to a 170, it seems to be running great, good power througout the throttle range, minimal popping on decel, decent idle. throughout the break in Ive been a little nervous that my water temp sensor wasnt working so Ive been doing short runs to keep the temps low, today I finished up with the rest of the odds and ends and took it for a ride, well ill be damned it started to register the temp! Which means its either been staying below 100*F or the thing actually wasnt working and now is. I did go with some larger chinese built ebay radiators that Im actually quite pleased with but now they seem to be working too well, I couldnt get the temp to break 130*F. I was running without the T-stat before the rebuild as it was running hot, but I assume I should run one now? I think running temp should be around 190-200 right?
  10. Cpt. Ron

    Cpt. Ron Advrider #128

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    I believe the thermostat opens at around 180.
  11. jwalters

    jwalters Farkle Proliferator

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    Great feedback, thanks! Maybe I over compensated.

  12. Trl Rdr

    Trl Rdr Big Red Bird

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    Quoted a post, but it grabbed some other post!
    This was for for the guy with the XR600 rebuilt to 628 getting hot.
    Did you up size the jets after the rebuild?
  13. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    Sweet. I hit a set of whoops the other day while day dreaming at around 60mph. Then only thing that slowed me down was fear, the bike sucked it up perfectly.
  14. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    When you crash, you need to go down on the right side and it will correct this.
  15. BuRPsa

    BuRPsa Finally growing up..

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    Jwalters & Flyguy,

    I seem to remember the floatlevel is 18mm in the books but 19mm cures a dribling carb when parked over on the stand.
    Hence that mentioned 16mm sounds awfully wrong?
  16. ride4fun562

    ride4fun562 Been here awhile

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    CA
    Does anyone live near Southern California , Long Beach more specifically. I want to compare my piggy to someone else's and I don't know anyone who has one. It would be awesome to go on a little ride and compare if you have it plated, gas would be on me, send a PM. :ear
  17. jwalters

    jwalters Farkle Proliferator

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    The Clymer service manual also calls for 16mm. That seems to be the general consensus. I'll play around with it, and report back. So much easier working on the one carb, than my Honda CB750. All 4 got tedious! :-)

  18. Shibby!

    Shibby! Long timer

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    Anybody have a tanker brace they are willing to part with?

    My buddy scored a tank without the brace.
  19. bigtrailie

    bigtrailie Pursuing happiness

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    Ditto. I'm hoping Hodakaguy will make another batch sometime soon - buy if someone is sitting on a spare, drop me a line ( after contacting Shibby first of course).
  20. BuRPsa

    BuRPsa Finally growing up..

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    Ah, my bad. Then add 1mm ie 17mm and rid yourself of leaking fuel when lent over on the sidestand.