XR650R Thread!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by JustinT, Nov 24, 2008.

  1. Shibby!

    Shibby! Long timer

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    In the midst of building a power bleeder for the ktm. I'll have to make connectors for the XRR.

    You guys have me thinking about rebuilding mine with all this engine talk.


  2. TJE

    TJE Space Emperor

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    Sep 17, 2009
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    Hi lads! I bought an '03 XR650R a year ago, but I haven't ridden it much yet, maybe 1000km total. it's a fairly low mileage 3 owner bike.

    My worry is that it consumes quite a lot of oil. It's also jerky, especially when picking up the gas after throttling down a bit. It's like the throttle is super sensitive ... When going straight at a constant speed, it's doesn't really feel smooth either.

    I did the valves last weekend, and they were totally off. Intake should be 0.15 but I couldn't even get a 0.04 in there. Exhaust should be 0.20 but 0.30 would go in.

    What state would the valves be in after an unknown thousand km of bad valves like that?

    Does the oil consumption correlate with perhaps worn out valves?

    What would be needed for a rebuild, assuming the bore and piston is OK?
    Many thanks!
  3. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    I have no idea, but I now see a use for the snake camera my bro got me for Christmas.

    I would double check valves again, clean the carb. Basically check everything, and then pull the head if nothing works. Sounds a bit strange.

    Is the motor stock?

    As far as a rebuild, I found it a pleasure to work on. However, I would feel safer assuming you need a new rod while you are in there. It is pretty common. Once you confirm your rod is good, then the rebuild is a breeze, if not it goes to another level with splitting the cases. No matter the bike however, 4t motors are expensive to rebuild compared to a truck or 2t.

  4. Bhart89

    Bhart89 Been here awhile

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    Hello all, I'm a soon to be owner of a 2003 XR650R.

    Are their any issues with parts availability I should know? I'm aware that Honda hasn't produced these bikes since 2007. Are their any issues getting rebuild parts should I need them?
  5. brayjay

    brayjay Been here awhile

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    I checked into this recently and was told that transmission gears are the most difficult but are available and could be a long wait to get them if neaded. As for other parts not sure.
  6. supernick

    supernick Been here awhile

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  7. supernick

    supernick Been here awhile

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  8. pavemike

    pavemike I fall down alot

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    Great video! Looks like one hell of a trip :clap
  9. supernick

    supernick Been here awhile

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  10. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    so i set the top ring end gap at .014 and second ring at .018. does this sound about right for the wiseco standard bore. i decided to go off of the specs in the service manual. according to wiseco, the chart dictates top ring should be at about .016 and second ring at .020in. what is the consensus on this?
  11. jwalters

    jwalters Farkle Proliferator

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  12. lstzephyr

    lstzephyr Solo con rambo

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  13. techforlife

    techforlife CDI REPAIR

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    Whenever i rebuild an engine i go by the piston manufacturers specs on skirt clearances and ring gap..........they made both,,,,,,,,,Honda did not make the rings for Wiseco.......i have had ring gap closure on an engine,it was caught before it damaged the cylinder,but 014 and 018 is plenty..

    B
  14. jules083

    jules083 Long timer

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    I know about ring gap and all, but how did you catch it? Some distinct sound? Not that I'm doing a rebuild or anything at the moment, but it seems like good information to know.


    Another, also just for reference, question. Wouldn't the top ring need the bigger gap, as it's the one that gets hottest? The idea is for the gap to basically go away at operating temperature, right?

    Just one of those things I kind of know about but not really. Thanks.



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  15. TJE

    TJE Space Emperor

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    Thanks, crypto666, much appreciated. Problem is that I know the basics of upkeeping a motorcycle, but when it comes to the inside of the case, I draw a complete blank. Living in Vietnam, I can't just go to a mechanic for help, as they would most certainly screw the whole thing up ... so trying to find out if it's actually a problem, and whether it's something I can do myself, or if I should just sell it before it goes really bad.

    I heard that a loose valve is a happy valve, to a certain degree, but what would the result of too tight intake valves be? And could this be related to the high oil consumption?

    Could the jerkiness have something to do with timing? And would this be easy to check?

    Also, checking the rod sounds like a large operation, removing the top entirely?

    Thanks again!
  16. PeteN95

    PeteN95 Long timer

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    TJE, are you using the proper method to check oil level, run 5 min, wait 5 min, then check? Also, has you bike been jetted properly? The abruptness off idle is normal because the stock round slide carb tends to vacuum stick a little when shut, but proper jetting is critical for smooth throttle operation.
  17. crypto666

    crypto666 Long timer

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    To tight on the intake and the bike will be hard to start and/or will have a hanging high idle. It could also be the reason for the strange throttle response.

    To check timing on the valves is a bit involved. I think you have to remove the right case cover (oil pump, water pump, etc). But it should also be able to be done by referencing the flywheel postion and the cam chain procket postion. However, you should still be able to set the valve lash regardless. I would suggest pulling your vlave cover off (the whole thing, not just the access covers) and check the valves when you know all the cam lobes are pointing down. This would also give you a chance to inspect the cam and related stuff.

    Ignition timing? I am not sure on that one.

    Yes, you should remove the cylinder to check the rod, but if you put a piston stop in the spark plug hole, you may be able to check the slop by moving the flywheel back and forth to see how much play there is. This movement will be the result of the rod bearing play.

    Removing the jug (cylinder) is not too difficult, just review the shop manual. If you don't have it, download it for free. it will have all the info you need.
  18. ghostrider1964

    ghostrider1964 Edumacated Red Neck

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    I guess I won't tell you I went riding yesterday and it was 74 degrees...my XR rode great until i smelled radiator fluid...fluid collected around crimp at top of radiator. Tried to see if its the hose or what but my huge Acerbis tanks makes it real hard...course the weather switched last night and today is 45:lol3 Texas weather is a bitch:1drink
  19. Oz Nutter

    Oz Nutter Long timer

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    How many lbs of torque is required on kickstart lever?

    Can kick start shaft (theoretically) keep spinning in anti clockwise direction?

    Is it only because of the lever mechanism needs to return to top, to enable re-kick?

    If one used mechanical force (ie 90 degree Drill head) to spin shaft , would motor start?
  20. mitchn06

    mitchn06 Been here awhile

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    27 ft-lbs with blue loctite


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