XRL owners sign in.

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by onaXR, Jan 18, 2006.

  1. AZ TOM

    AZ TOM Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,212
    Location:
    Prescott AZ
    Was having same bottoming rubbing problem with 606 with right amout of sag set. Had a lowering link also. The link puts more leverage on the shock & it blows through the travel faster & can bottom out. Removed the link set the sag & all is good.
  2. Cigar Mike

    Cigar Mike Too Old and Too Slow

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,493
    Location:
    Centennial, Co

    I am curious about your impression on the front tire. I have had one on the front for about 2000 miles.

    Mike
  3. Grayjet

    Grayjet Ride on!

    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2008
    Oddometer:
    474
    Location:
    Va Beach
    I definitely need to work on the rear suspension. I set the sag years ago... Perhaps a recheck is in order. I weigh 240, so a stiffer spring is likely in order as well, but in the end, the suspension is going to bottom now and again. I think I will just switch back to a 120/80 when the time comes. I have never had any issues with size tire at all.
  4. xj750guy

    xj750guy on the Baja 7yr plan

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2009
    Oddometer:
    99
    Location:
    Alberta "Wildrose Country" Canada
    Hey folks,

    Stupid question......

    I'm in the process of mounting a Shorai battery on top of the air box (ala Spud), and have a quick question regarding cables.

    Is there any reason why the ground cable actually has to go all the way down the the ground lug by the starter?

    Being that the Shorai is going to be mounted between the frame rails, why not just loop a short cable from the negative battery post, right to the frame where the factory harness grounds are already located?

    Any thoughts.

    Regards
    XJ :D
  5. kenny61

    kenny61 Crazy Idiot

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    24,961
    Location:
    Romaniacs 2019
    It just guarantees direct path for electricity.
  6. xj750guy

    xj750guy on the Baja 7yr plan

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2009
    Oddometer:
    99
    Location:
    Alberta "Wildrose Country" Canada
    Is there any reason that grounding the frame directly as I suggested would be "inadequate" as opposed to the factory setup?

    I suppose I could put a ground "jumper" cable between the frame and the starter lug if it didn't complete a good circuit to the starter.

    Later
    XJ
  7. malignity

    malignity The Hurt Locker

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2012
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    Sanford, MI
    I'm double checking my PO's work on Dave's carb mod; just curious if there was a way to check to see how thin a washer is without using a micrometer? Unfortunately, I don't have one. I'm wondering if maybe his shim wasn't big enough. Seems like an awfully thin washer.

    I don't know much about this style carb, so what happens if I shim it a bit more?
  8. MuscleGarunt

    MuscleGarunt Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2011
    Oddometer:
    107
    Location:
    Tip of the civilized world
    Get a caliper. Go to the reloading section of your local Wal Mart. Pick up the Lyman dial caliper for 28 dollars or something. It's a good thing to have.
  9. ThumpnRed

    ThumpnRed Pig Wrangler

    Joined:
    Aug 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,621
    Location:
    Eye Duh Hoe
    ditto. I HATED the lowering link on my bike. It blew through the available travel like me through a case of good beer:freaky You can get a stiffer spring to help offset it, but then you end up with less sag which kind of negates the whole point of the lowering link.
    I am convinced that the best way to lower the rear end is to tear down the shock and install a lowering spacer in the shock itself. Messing with the linkage rates is always a compromise.
  10. malignity

    malignity The Hurt Locker

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2012
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    Sanford, MI
    I'll be picking one up likely soon, as it seems like I'd be needing one. Any idea what'll happen if I shim it more? Poor performance? Richer mixture? Explosive kangaroos out of the exhaust?
  11. kenny61

    kenny61 Crazy Idiot

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    Location:
    Romaniacs 2019
    Im sure there is, but I dont think you would have a problem if you used a jumper
  12. ShooterDave

    ShooterDave Adventurer

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    May 30, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,381
    Location:
    Caliscrewitself
    :lol3:lol3:lol3:lol3:lol3

    The holes in the slide allow for the slide to move faster, the shim in the needle allows for more gas to get in sooner. You can lower or raise it all you want, it will still run. It just won't run well. So all it will do is change the way the carb behaves. Experiment with it. I found that on my Ninja, it runs well with one or two shims in it. It just runs a tad better with just one, so I stick with that.
  13. malignity

    malignity The Hurt Locker

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2012
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    Sanford, MI
    Well, I shimmed the needle to about a .035 or so and rejetted the main to a 162. If the reason it's not getting above 70mph very easily is because it's too lean, I'm thinking it's about to be damn right cured here in a few.

    Carb's back in, taking a break right now. Was having some random 'all thumbs' difficulty getting the oil separator reconnected and my back is killing me (for some reason I have back issues at 28). Waiting for my Motrin 800 to kick in and my pizza rolls to finish in the oven. There's nothing like a few dozen pizza rolls right before working on a bike. :evil
  14. malignity

    malignity The Hurt Locker

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2012
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    Sanford, MI
    Outta curiosity, I remember reading somewhere that people said the front Kenda 760's can wash out on pavement at certain speeds. Personally, I've never had any major issues after the break in period, have you?

    Had a little bit of a scary moment during break in with about 20 miles on the tires going on the expressway. I could feel the knobs start to slip on the entrance ramp. It wasn't anything horrible and I haven't had any issues since.
  15. ShooterDave

    ShooterDave Adventurer

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    May 30, 2009
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    Caliscrewitself
    You sure the reason is because of it being too lean? 162 is a pretty big jet, mines a 158 I think and it does fine, even at 155 it will easily reach 70+mph. What is your gearing at?
  16. Cigar Mike

    Cigar Mike Too Old and Too Slow

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,493
    Location:
    Centennial, Co
    What lowering links have you guys been using? I installed one from Performance Designs and It may have lowered it a little more than an inch. I installed it to improve the handling by leaving the forks alone. I would have installed a stiffer spring if needed. I have to disagree with the idea that when setting the sag with the stiffer spring it would negate the installation of the lowering link. Your sag would still be the same and the end result would be your bike is lower. For as slow as I am I did not notice much difference. I checked the sag after the switch an it was so close I did not have to adjust it. I like it a little softer for the speeds and terrain I travel on.

    I have never bought a dirt bike that I did not change to stiffer springs. But I don't think of the L as a dirt bike. It is good enough to ride mild dirt and easy single track, and is a good fit for Adventure Rides . I still have dirt bikes but the L is not one of them.

    Mike
  17. Cigar Mike

    Cigar Mike Too Old and Too Slow

    Joined:
    Jan 16, 2007
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    Location:
    Centennial, Co
    It seems that most that have tried the 760 front did not like it. Most of the complaints I have read have been in the dirt. I ran one for a few hundred miles and took it off. I don't like that narrow a tire on this heavy of a bike. I liked the Kenda 777F much better but it wears fast especially under heavy braking. It did bit well off road though. So well it would climb up the side of ruts if you were not careful. I am running the Unicross front now. It wears better and I have no problems with it washing out in the dirt. It seems to hold it's line well in the turns. Not the best, but a good compromise. On the pavement I had no issues with the 760 but I don't push them as hard as street tires.
  18. ThumpnRed

    ThumpnRed Pig Wrangler

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    Aug 30, 2009
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    Eye Duh Hoe
    If you have so much spring tension that you lose sag, your shock (and bike) sits higher in the stroke. Set up properly with several inches of sag and a stock link will make the bike actually sit lower than a "corrected" bike with a lowering link. Another issue that I found with a lowering link is that the first inch or so of travel is still pretty good, but after that the increased leverage eats through the remainder of the travel.

    Now... having said that, if I stayed close to the hardtop road, I would have left my lowering link on the bike. I am however prone to pointing my pig into a series of whoops and grabbing a handful of noise. That is where the lowering link really fell down. Without the link, it will behave pretty well.

    The brand of link is really irrelevant... they are all simply a longer dogbone. One brand might be a tad longer or shorter than the others, but there's no secret sauce. The bottom line is that the more a link lowers the bike, the more it rapes the link ratio.
  19. malignity

    malignity The Hurt Locker

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2012
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    Sanford, MI
    Stock gearing, running an IDS2 Supetrapp with 8 disks. I do have full (DOT) knobbies that I run though. It would do 70, but not much more than that. It sounded like it was screaming at 70. Plug was showing pretty white too.

    I shimmed the needle from .02 or maybe even less to .035 or so and added the 162 main. I can cruise 70 comfortably now it seems, with a max speed around 85. The low end torque seems more scary too. I clutch popped while leaning forward and still managed a 1' wheelie. :D
  20. techforlife

    techforlife CDI REPAIR

    Joined:
    Sep 21, 2008
    Oddometer:
    4,389
    Location:
    Moncton,New Brunswick
    Corrosion,paint,etc,between ther engine and the frame can cause high resistance and if the ground is not placed on the engine it can cause high current to the starter due to that bad ground,,possible starter issues..

    Cars/trucks always have a large ground cable to the engine for this same issue........more so on a car though due to rubber engine mount issolation..

    B