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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by onaXR, Jan 18, 2006.
What no pic to celebrate???
See post two up ^
Pics or it didn't happen!!!!
Screw the pic's. We want VIDEO...
I couldn't safely scroll until minute or two so ago....
Gotta go Red Alert....
Thanks the kind words. I really needed some encouragement. With the rush of the holidays, end of year at work, and you know someone here said I was a "turd". That comment really weighed heavely on me.
I went to my psychiatrist and told him " I keep thinking about suicide." He told me from now on I have to pay in advance.:huh
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Man you are one lucky guy. Ya see, I'm not a sexy guy. I went to a hooker. I dropped my pants. She dropped her price.
I think there's a Honda back there somewhere...
Damn... Fly by time again. Sure looked good on the Fly thou...
Dang, I'm gonna have to sit here with my computer on my lap for another minute. Things just don't last like they used to.
Thanks Spud... I ordered that oil cap bolt today off of ebay and picked up the Harbor Freight digital thermometer tonite while I was there doing some Christmas shopping. For the record... Harbor Freight is a great place... while their tools may not be the highest of quality I can appreciate any tool store that sells nose hair clippers alongside socket sets and power tools! Thanks for the tip on steering clear of the xr's only gauge... The price of $39 for essentially a meat thermometer was enough to send me looking elsewhere.
So it looks like around 300 degrees is the official "turn off the engine and drink a beer" marker... right?
You're welcome, Clint. Yes, I wouldn't ride the bike with oil reservoir temperatures exceeding 300 degrees Fahrenheit.
The oil in the reservoir is probably the coolest oil in the system. Oil coming right off the piston skirt is probably at least 50 degrees, or more, hotter than oil in the reservoir. Non-synthetic motor oil probably starts to degrade around 400 degrees Fahrenheit, so you want to stay comfortably below that temperature.
Also, I have noted my oil temperature seems to approach "critcal mass" as it approaches 300 degrees Fahrenheit in the oil reservoir. In other words, the temperature seems to want to continue to climb, even if I reduce speed. However, with my Spud Cooler installed, engine temperatures rapidly go down if I stop the bike for even a short period of time after oil temperatures approach 300 degrees. Therefore, it's wise to let the bike cool off, rather than watch oil temperatures continue to rise to dangerous levels.
I like 275 degrees as a limit myself. A cooler is very smart addition.
I don't think my oil temperature has exceeded 290 degrees Fahrenheit since I installed my Spud Oil Cooler. My XR650L will only approach that oil temperature when I am ascending very long, steep mountain trails, or riding WOT down the freeway for 35 miles, or more. However, it's not hard to exceed 275 degrees while climbing 2,500-4,000 vertical feet in the Rocky Mountains. If you can keep oil temperatures below 275 degrees, that's great. However, I think 300 degrees is a very practical, maximum temperature which will still prevent heat degradation of the engine oil.
If you remove the stock air scoops, and ride the bike hard, an oil cooler is a very wise investment. The oil cooler not only reduces oil temperatures while riding; it also cools the oil much more rapidly after you stop the engine. My oil cooler not only radiates heat from the cooler itself and its external oil lines; as the external oil cools it also reduces the oil temperature in the reservoir to which it is connected. At any given time, a large amount of the engine oil resides in the oil reservoir and downtube. Therefore, an oil cooler will greatly reduce operating oil temperatures after you restart the bike, and the much cooler, external oil is returned to the engine.
If anyone is interested, here's a link to the installation thread for my Spud Oil Cooler, which costs less than $100 to fabricate.
One thing to consider is that the battery box provides some support to the back of the subframe. Not saying it's essential, but it's something to consider.
"Venezuela. Coloooombia...." I am really starting to hate that thing.
Oh. And no underwear.
That's true. I'm sure I could fabricate a bracket that would keep the support there if I removed the box. I have also thought about putting a lighter-weight box there for tools, extra parts, etc.
I'm sure that's correct. However, you can bolt a 1/4-inch steel strap to replace the battery box frame. The straight steel strap will strengthen the subframe even better than the battery box frame, and the subframe will sustain much less punishment after the 10 plus pounds of the battery box and its contents have been removed.
I know some of you are interested in the 2013 Honda CRF250L. Motorcycle.com just posted a comparison between the Honda CRF250L and the Kawaski KLX250S. Here's the video summary of the comparsion.
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Here's a link to the associated article at Motorcycle.com.
My brief summary of their conclusions is the CRF250L wins. Motorcycle.com says the Honda suspension performs well enough compared to the Kawasaki. Therefore, the lower price of the Honda CRF250L, combined with its high tech, fuel injected engine, makes it the winner over the Kawasaki KLX250S.