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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by onaXR, Jan 18, 2006.
Thanks for the tips everyone. I actually had a Manual laying around so work has begun. In terms of the frame, I took the rear rack/subframe thing (one thats under the rear fender) off, sanded it down and took a can of RUSTOLEUM TRUCK BED COATING to it to test the stuff and since I didnt care how it looks and its mainly to prevent rust (it was pretty bad on that part). After letting it cure for a few days (I put 1 thick and 2 thin coats on) I'm going to test how it performs with the elements like leaving it out in the snow, putting it in front of a 500w shop light and chucking rocks at it. I think this "test" should give me an understanding if its capable of handling the real world scenarios and if its worth it to just go ahead and do the entire frame with it.
Also, I did a visual inspection of the shock and the linkage etc and things seem to be in pretty good shape back there so I think I'm just going to leave it alone for now. As far as the Shock rubber stopper is concerned, i took the old cork looking crap out and cleaned it up the area with compressed air. Since the shock itself doesnt look like it needs work done I think I'm gonna go find some kind of a stopper that I can split and slide it in there through the springs so I dont have to take the whole damn thing apart. Since I dont really ride trails etc and have never really jumped it hard enough to bottom out, I think this "fix" would do until I can afford to rebuild the shock right or find a good replacement later
Not once Spud starts posting pictures of scantly clad women all bets are off. I always counted on him to set the bar for all things proper and acceptable. Now, this thread will continue to degenerate.
So I found my Honda Manual and went ahead and took the left C.Cover off to take care of the hole in the case from the thrown chain. The actual block is good but the case had a dime size chunk missing under where I had patched it with JPweld :eek1
So I just have to go ahead and replace the cover but additionally, the Rubber plug thing on the Stator wire going out is beat up pretty good too. I figured if i'm gonna be clippin wires to get the rubber seal in, I might as well upgrade the damn stator itself since I'll be running HID projectors and heated gear + gps etc here soon.
I found one on the PRO CYCLE website that boasts of 260watts :eek1 for $130
http://procycle.us/bikepages/xr650l.html#electrical. I cant seem to find any other option besides getting the coils rewound which is too much work. So here are my questions
1. The best place to get a case cover? are Ebay and the stock OEM replacement my only options? Anywhere else I could save a bit of $$$?
2. If I upgrade to the 260watt stator, do I need to upgrade anything else on the bike?? Sorry, I know as much about electrical systems as we know about the Lochness Monster!
3. Before I took the cover off I lightly degreased the motor and washed it with low pressure water to get mud and dirt off. When I took the cover off the little bit of oil in there was milky. Clearly water got in. When I put it back together should I just try to do 2 quick oil changes and try to get it out or is there anything else I should be doing??
Thanks for all you help and taking care of a rookie
The question I have about that stator is at what RPM does it put out 260w? There are Honda stators that can be swapped if you're really interested but will cost more. Buuut you can run some additional load on the stock stator- you have ~180w to work with so add all the wattages up. Also, switching to LED dash and taillight will be a much easier/cheaper way to free up some power. Leave the directionals stock because they are nice and bright, unless you drive around with them on all the time.
You may be able to add something like Hylomar around that grommet to seal it up, or carefully cut it off and seal that cavity with high temp RTV.
If you upgrade the stator, you might consider upgrading the regulator/rectifier. But shunting regulators like these are happier running bigger loads, as long as they are not exceeding their power rating.
I'm sorry I offended you with some of the photographs I have posted. I will refrain from posting such photographs in the future. You are a decent, helpful person, and I certainly never wished to offend you, or anyone else.
I am offended when people insult others. You are always polite and helpful. However, I'm surprised more people don't express disappointment with the rude people who inhabit this thread.
See, the website doesnt state the details on the stator or I was gonna call up the guys there and ask them about that tomorrow during business hours. I already swapped the tail light with a LED cluster and I'm switching over to the Trail Tech Vapor dash during this build so I expect quite a bit of power to be freed up. The only reason why I'd like to upgrade is so I can run my heated gear as well as charge my photography equipment while im riding about. I'll do the math tonight and see if i can save that $130.
Good call on the RTV stuff, forgot about that. haha. Honestly I'd want to keep the stock stator if it does the job. Why fix it if its not broken
Rude people on this thread? Say it ain't so.
I would like to opportunity to publicly apologize for my comments as to the fees you charge to provide the outstanding service that you do. In the future I will make a concerted effort to eliminate those types of comments from my post. I have found your advice to be top shelf; you are an outstanding contributor to this informational forum we all enjoy. My intentions were not to distress you in any way but rather to jest. This I say to all who frequent this forum.
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I am uncomfortable with people that feel the need to restate another’s written words insisting that their spin is the correct one and how the information should be conveyed. Tech, you sir are one of the bright spots in the cast of grey that seek to turn ADV into a Garden Club board meeting. I am aghast more have not rallied behind the cause to maintain ADV as a rough, tough, Man Cave type of site that it was conceived to be.
But, really, call me rude if you wish, I don’t give a f__k!. Party on dudes.
RTV is what I was going to mention, except that the way I do it (Hi Fritz) is to clean the wire grommet very well with alchohol, acetone, or MEK and a small brush such that there is no oil film left on it, then upon assembly coat the inner groove in hi-temp RTV, covering around completely where it meets the case cover and the gasket surface (you want enough, but not big gobs, smooth it - working carefully and being thorough pays off here), then assemble carefully so it only goes together and not back apart. That has always worked well for me on many occasions over the years - no leaks. I wouldn't consider cutting the wires.
As for the stator upgrade, I doubt that's necessary for what you describe. Charging photography equipment should take less than a tail light. It all depends on how much heated gear you want to run at full power and for how long. You'd have to be on the extreme end of power usage to need the extra, and it's a lot of effort for the gain. Good call on calculating your needs, that should be a critical element of information used in the decision to upgrade or not.
As for the regulator, should you upgrade the stator, perhaps a beefier one, but initially you can check to see if the stock one is heating up while road riding with a charged battery and no accessories (worst case). Since the shunt regulator dissipates more as the power being produced by the stator is not being used by the bike (or anything attached), it won't be working hard (not heating up much) when you're running heated gear and such.
holy fuck Fritz.....you been drinkin that nasty Texas beer again..haven`t ya
Notice how i insult your beer and the thought that maybe you are an alcoholic in the same sentence...i like to double up ya know.,,,,,
I actually could care less either Fritz....i can suck it up..
But.....anytime you want to undercut my CDI repair pricing...feel free to do so.it would be cheaper shipping down there and you could really coin it off all the XR650L owners.......then buy a big freekin mansion with 8 blond poolside hookers..that`d teach me..
I think the center of balance on these pipes is closer to the front than rear of the alloy can...
Seriously.........i don`t think it really matters which end you use,,it still ends up supported well..i have never seen an FMF that had any issues from the inlet of the muffler to the back.but i`ve seen a few that broke at the mount on the inlet pipe or some odd reason..
But the Q exhaust on mine has been forward mounted since new,,no issues.......looks a little cleaner too i think..
We`ll see when i install the new Q2 i bought..i still plan on the same mount point..
Oh, I am just soooooooooooooo offended! OMG!
For your information I'm 50% drunk 7% of the time.
And where did you get the impression I could EVEN attempt to to be a Witch Doctor, like you, and fix something with more than two wires?
And we can agree on something. To all I have offended:
Man.........do i need a beer........real beer,,canuckian acid beer
I need a beer. You guys are giving ME a headache.
Make that 4% for me, you drunkard!
Wow.that looks like Dave.......after wiping out on the trans lab........
Would someone be so kind as to send " marlinjames" a copy of the service manual. I don't have it on my home computer.