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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by onaXR, Jan 18, 2006.
Ohm's law homey.
I was going to join until I found out they didn't serve liquor.
May not be the problem. When mine started acting up I bought a CDI. Didn't cure it. I tested the coil and it wasn't giving me the correct reading so I replaced it. The bike worked like a charm for about six months then started giving me "no start" fits again.
Now that I've cleaned the ignition cut off switch it fires up "right now"!
Still have that new CDI in my parts box...
I think a lot of the CDI problems may be do to the location of the CDI and where the bike is ridden. Smooth roads, trails verses rough rocky roads and trails where the CDI is getting jarred to death. Mine has a lot of miles on it but I haven't been on too many rough trails.
Put the CDI in the pocket of your favorite riding jacket, tool pack or whatever you always have with you when out on the trail. It sure beats walking! I have a spare in my my tool kit that goes with me every time the tires hit dirt.
I agree on all points. In particular, thanks for posting the good information regarding the engine stop switch.
Many bikes with AC-CDI systems use the engine stop switch to kill the engine by grounding the output from the CDI unit. These switches are open in the "run" position, and divert the CDI output to ground in the "stop" position. Therefore, if the engine stop switch gets dirty, it doesn't cause ignition problems, because these switches are solely designed to kill the engine.
However, the XR650L employs a DC-CDI unit. Looking at the XR650L wiring diagram, it appears the engine stop switch provides 12V+ to the CDI unit when it is in the "run" position, and kills the engine by disconnecting power from the CDI unit when it is in the "off" position. Therefore, if the engine stop switch gets sufficiently dirty, it will not provide enough DC power for the CDI unit to operate properly.
One needs to make sure the engine stop switch is clean, in addition to testing the ignition coil, pulse generator, and spark plug, before he assumes the CDI unit is bad.
I have all day tomorrow to pull the bike electrics apart.
It's going to be an epic battle of emotions and head scratching.
Being English, I will consuming A LOT of tea as it is the only way to combat times of difficulty
If you still have this and it is complete, My brother could really use it. It would be his last ditch effort before spending the cash on a hydraulic clutch for his DR. PM a cost and how you would like payment.
Some here might advocate a bottomless pint of Guinness as a more soothing beverage.
Not me of course!
Super, all it needs is a pivot pin. I'll get one fur it. Send me your info and of course post info on proposed trade item for Collective to pruse and approve. LOL
Pm me when you have time.
Skip the labor pains and just give me the baby.
Fix: Keep the kill switch clean for proper operation of the CDI unit as the kill switch is in the power feed to the CDI.
Wait a minute! Stop the music!
Your bro. is not liking his DR's clutch? :huh Those things have a clutch pull like a single hole paper punch. Go over there and clean and lube the lever and cable first.
Shut the hell up Fritz.........FFS.......you are one freekin lousy salesman..
You are supposed to tell them AFTER you sell them something they don`t need..
I see why you are so poor now,geeeezzzzzzzzzzzussssss
Fritz, what kind of ds riding you have around there ? Ya'll ever get up any rides in your area ?
He is weak and has girly hands and works for a software company. But at least he tries to ride.
I recently purchased a 2007 XRL that I plan to tear down to the frame and build a new bike my way.I have purchased the Emig triple clamps and a set of 2003 CRF450R forks. What I'm wondering is if anyone on the forum has advice for fork set up. My intention was to rebuild the fork but I am unsure about spring rates etc.
Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
I will also be selling off the stock front end,wheels, bodywork,tank,speedo- just about everything but the frame and motor. If anyone has interest you can call me at 314-277-8744. I will be listing those in the classifieds soon.
Try racetech.com they're good guys
Samsung Galaxy S3
No need for emotions and head scratching. Verify the CDI unit is getting good, solid power on the B/W supply lead (via the ignition switch - ign. fuse - run/stop switch) and the Y/R (via ign. sw. - headlight fuse - start button) at the unit, and a solid ground connection on both the solid green and G/W (via neutral and stand safeties) wires - those conditions need to be met as it's cranking. Once those four are verified, check continuity of the B/Y connection from the CDI to the coil primary, and the coil ground. Inspect the coil and high-tension lead for cracks & cuts, then if all looks good, try a known good CDI unit. That leaves the crank position sensor and wiring, and the coil itself which could possibly suffer an internal open or short. So next step would be to add a known good coil, then finally check out the crank position sensor / verify with known good.
Just what I was looking for! Thanks again man!
Make sure the wires are intact from the pulse generator coming out of the right crankcase cover. Then check the resistance on it. I don't have my manual with me or I'd give you the spec for it. There is probably a really easy way to test whether or not that thing is starting the spark chain of events... but again I don't have my manual with me. Hopefully one of the fine gentlemen here will post up what you need...You might want to make sure your wires and connectors are securely attached (the ground under the seat and the negative from the battery to the engine (next to the starter) are a couple important ones)
FWIW, I would go with Guinness instead of tea, after all, Guinness is good for you!