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Discussion in 'Vendors' started by Wasp, Jul 2, 2010.
Though I fancy your work on the bike so far I think the exhaust looks butt-ugly no offence. Too elemental for a bike w/ this presence. Just my opinion.
i think it looks good - a hell of a lot better than the original and it cleans up the lins to the back of the bike...
No offense taken at all.
Although I really enjoy this bike and especially enjoy tinkering around with these mods, I do these things for myself, but everyone is welcome to an opinion.
I could actually almost agree with you as, in its current state, it does look a bit bland at the moment. I do however have the benefit of knowing what is down the track for this muffler configuration to complete the visual integration.
The plans to complete the look include:
* Laser-cut stainless steel (geometric vent pattern) top quarter muffler heat shield (9 o'clock to 12 o'clock) that covers from pillion peg hangers to 3/4 rear of the muffler and stands off the muffler surface by 6>8mm.
* Laser-cut stainless steel (geometric vent pattern) tail pipe/ankle heat shield that covers from pillion peg hangers to swing-arm pipe entry and stands off the pipe surface by 6>8mm.
* Fabricated CHS pillion peg hangers (utilizes OEM pegs).
I like the clean and simple look of the exhaust, but then again I don't wear gold chains or pinky rings either....
Well, I 'll wait and see. It's great to be able to work on your bike and tailor make it to suit your needs and taste. Wish I could do that. Keep on posting!
For those who may be interested (pretty boring shit but you never know) I found a little spare time to weld the extensions on the centre stand today.
If you have been following diligently you would know that I have manufactured some suspension links that lifted the rear of the bike by 25mm.
One expected side effect from this geometry change was the need to extend the centre stand to compensate for the increased ground clearance.
I mentioned in a previous post that I modeled up these extensions and had them laser cut and pressed on Monday so I took a few pics today to show the (very simple) process of completing this mod.
With the bike on its side stand and the centre stand stored, use a spring puller to remove both the large and small springs.
Be careful with your knuckles when removing these.
Remove the 14mm nuts on either side of the stand. The pivot bolt is restrained from turning so does not need to be held.
Remove the pivot bolts from both sides and remove the stand from under the bike.
Buff the paint of the underside (or at least the welding area) of both stand pads.
I designed these plates so that there was no real measuring involved in installation, just align the back face of the plate with the back edge of the original pad and tack weld in position before fully welding after inspection.
Give them a bit of a buff after welding to remove any dags or weld spatter and then a quick wipe down with Turpentine prior to paint.
I used a satin black touch up spray can and gave to whole stand a once over to even up the coverage.
Installation is obviously the reverse of removal.. Just watch those knuckles when refitting the springs.
Lube the pivot bolts with a bit of grease and put a drop of threadlock on the bolt before tightening up.
As you can see, the extensions make very little to no change in clearance to the swing-arm and are fairly discrete.
Lifted just the right amount.
This is a brand new tyre with the 25mm suspension link riser kit installed, and it's sitting on rubber so there is a couple more mm clearance.
I am very pleased with the end result and I can finally throw the block of wood away.
The whole process took about 3/4hr + half a day for the paint to dry..
I'm sure you/anyone can do it.. Just do the research and plan an approach.
+, ask "how-too" questions if you need advice.
I like the muffler - simple and functional. Any aesthetic preferences can be taken care of by the heat shield. But... the tip pointing outward looks a bit weird. What's the reason it can't be pointed down, like the stock and just about every other aftermarket piece I've seen?
I did not mater how I positioned the muffler the exit was always pointing directly or partially at the indicator.
The outlet would have to be radically angled downward to be able to have it facing straight to the rear, or the muffler would need to go on parallel to the top frame as I originally had it...
If it is something that I cant get used to I will change it around later.
I knew there had to be a reason! Bloody R3B eh?!
I've looked throughout the threads and cannot find a source for OEM XT1200Z parts, such as plastics. The Worldcrosser vented side cowls intrigue me. I have tons of surface design/fabrication experience and resources here in the US. I would like to look into producing these for myself initially, perhaps beyond that later. None of the usual sources have listings for a bike this new. Can anyone help?
Additionally, the pillion tank also holds a lot of interest as an accessory. Perhaps I can source out roto casting such a piece, as well.
But does motorradgarage have a booth on intermot and some links in his pocket?
No booth... Just visiting and meetings apparently.
Check in at SW-Motech booth and ask if he is there or if they can point you in the right direction of Michael Wilson.
Perhaps even leave a cell number for him to call you to meet up.
Greg, I'm gonna be ordering a few things way before the bike gets to the USA in our spring (your fall). I was looking at Oxford grips but wanted to make sure about the size. I assume it is a 7/8" OEM bar right? Could you or someone with an S10 check the grip length so I will not get an Oxford too short or too long? Thanks in advance. I figure if I order things gradually it will keep the credit cards from becoming radioactive and glow in the dark next May .
have you checked that the shaft can take the extra travel? Is it a telescopic design similar to the BMW? The GSA has longer axle than the GS for that same reason. Just wondering.
To short, the original is a complex thing with the Weight partly inside the bar end I cut a little ofthe plastic on the right side and made a new endweight damper contruction with some brass duct couplers and old GS bar end weights.
Otherwise there would be a hidious gap. I used the Hein Gericke version of the Oxford filmswitch controlled grips, by far the hottest in hot and with 4 definit levels the most bang for the buck at 40.
And the controler fits as if its made for it perfectly on the square part on the left of the meters, and behind the middle stay of the headlight support on the headstock is a nice opening to fit the three connectors out of sight and out of spraywater...
That the most brilliant part of the S10, its looooong, so long it has almost none of the negative driveshaft influence, its 60 cm axle to axle. The gs has a axle to axle lenght of only 36 cm, but makes a even bigger angle because of the two joints. The GS driveschaftneeds the telescope to deal with that, the whole swingarm length from pivot to rearaxle shortens when you increase the travel of it. The S10 has a way smarter solution to cope with torque coupling, *length* and a slightly ofset pignon.
So no trouble at all to increase the travel by a mere 2,5 cm, the cardanic joint hardly moves any extra on such a long driveshaft.
Thanks for the info R3B.