XV920 from bobber to hopefully ADV bike

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by dakman74, Apr 29, 2013.

  1. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2013
    Oddometer:
    48
    Location:
    Los Alamos, NM
    Unfortunately I didn't take a picture of it in all its bobber shame (glory?) but here are some after removing just the tank and seat, and placing a temporary tank from my RT1 while I seal the stock tank and repaint it.

    http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a616/dakman74/DSCN0491_zps271967ce.jpg?t=1367270639

    http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a616/dakman74/DSCN0492_zps31fe469a.jpg?t=1367270684

    http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a616/dakman74/DSCN0493_zpsadfa2916.jpg?t=1367271005

    http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a616/dakman74/DSCN0496_zps4046d883.jpg?t=1367270700

    http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a616/dakman74/DSCN0497_zps59564ccc.jpg?t=1367270711

    http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a616/dakman74/DSCN0499_zps605d6a62.jpg?t=1367270734

    http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a616/dakman74/DSCN0501_zps446a2889.jpg?t=1367270749

    http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a616/dakman74/DSCN0502_zps3efaa985.jpg?t=1367270754

    As you can see...lots of eh-hem..."custom" work done.

    That tank sure is sparkly! And that seat was full of screws that stuck all the way through. Gotta love the homemade fishtail pipes, welded together, truly dual-exhaust with NO mufflers! Loud, obnoxious, ugly...hmmm I know some people like that hahaha

    Looks like I goofed on copy/paste for the photobucket pics...anyone able to remind me how it's supposed to work?
    #1
  2. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2013
    Oddometer:
    48
    Location:
    Los Alamos, NM
    Ebay is my friend! Stock exhaust, a modified seat, bar-mounts, DT100 rear fender, and I also ordered a Seca 18" wheel that I have verified will fit and will give me more options for dual-sport tires.

    http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a616/dakman74/DSCN0500_zps2b2179d8.jpg?t=1367270740

    http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums...e60-4cde2df239ce_zpse91dbfb8.jpg?t=1367271525

    http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a616/dakman74/DSCN0505_zps1c52f3a6.jpg?t=1367270783

    http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a616/dakman74/DSCN0506_zpsef7da507.jpg?t=1367270795

    http://i1286.photobucket.com/albums/a616/dakman74/DSCN0507_zpsac5d0ebd.jpg?t=1367270810

    So I like how it's coming together, probably going to re-add some of the rear-subframe so that 1) the passenger seat is supported and 2) I can add some saddlebag supports eventually. I'm not too crazy about how the DT100 fender came out, but I might run with it for awhile, especially if I can figure out a shock that will give me more travel, more ride height, and not be beyond the operating range angles of the shaft-drive.

    I ordered a dual cat-eye taillight/brake light from e-bay that I might try to wire up with a trailer conversion box (old trick for hotrods, Jeepers, etc.) to get the individual cat eyes to also serve as turn signals along with brake lights. Also coming from ebay are headlight mounts from an XV920R to mount an XT500 round headlight assembly. And for some reason the rear brake switch was gone, so had to find one of those too on ebay. And an XV535 simple mechanical round speedometer. I never liked the square digital gauges anyway. I might eventually wire up the "idiot lights" again someday.

    I have some rubber-mount turn signals from a Bandit 1200s that I might try to use on the front (and maybe the rear if the cat-eye taillights prove to be a pain to wire).

    Pulled the flywheel cover off and removed the starter, which was missing it's clip, did the JB Weld trick on the starter ring-gear, had to fab-up a bushing on one end of the idler-gear shaft because it was WAY wobbly, reversed the idler gear for now until I can order the $100 replacement along with a permanent replacement for that bushing, fabbed up a clip for the starter, and oh yeah did I mention pulled the carbs apart, cleaned them, made sure the diaphragms were in good shape, and put it all back together, along with a new battery. It runs pretty well, and starter idler gear only slips every once in awhile.

    Forgot to mention, P/O removed the ignition switch, so it's an on/off with the bar toggle. Thinking about figuring out how to re-wire an ignition switch back in, or maybe a hidden kill switch. Not too worried about someone stealing it, but might be worth having.

    So does ANYONE know what shock would work for more rear suspension height and travel, or what the limits of the shaft-drive angle might be? Not interested in doing a chain-drive conversion. I think I read somewhere that an XR250R shock will mount and give more height and travel, but I think that was on a chain-drive XV, and I still wonder if the valving will be adequate for the much heavier bike?

    I'm hoping to have it at least on the road in a few weeks, and will take more pics as I make more progress.
    #2
  3. pennswoodsed

    pennswoodsed lizards,bugs and me

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    805
    Location:
    Reading,Pa
    Nice build thread ,already . I can guess how foreign car adapter works ,but would appreciate pics or drawings to flesh it out . I like the narrow profile of this bike. I wonder if any of the shaft drive viragos had more travel ? maybe some experiments are in order ?
    regards,Ed
    #3
  4. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2013
    Oddometer:
    48
    Location:
    Los Alamos, NM
    http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/img/48845.jpg

    So basically hotrodders will use these to take the independent circuits and simplify for a cleaner install on taillights/brakelights/turn signals. They're not all that big, so I'm thinking I might try it if I can get it wired correctly on the cat-eyes.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&vxp=mtr&item=161015341601

    That's the taillight I bought.

    UPDATE to build: Am in the process of completing the use of KBS 3-step tank sealant ( http://www.kbs-coatings.com/tank-sealer-directions.html ), took 3 "days" of clean, rust conversion, then sealant application (last night), and now a 4-day wait for the curing process. The sealant application portion was the most labor-intensive. The first two steps were basically using the cleaner and rinsing/drying, then rust-conversion and rinsing/drying, then letting it sit a day to make SURE it was dry. For the sealant step it took about 4 hours of rolling the tank around to spread it evenly, let it sit, inspect for pooling, roll it around again, let it sit, inspect for pooling, and so on. Unfortunately because of the way the tank sits, it's almost impossible to get all the excess sealant out so have to keep at it until it starts to cure enough that it stops flowing and pooling. I learned this when trying to dry it...no matter how I placed the tank to dry and get the petcock mounting location to be the lowest point, it would still pool water to either side of the petcock because of the curve of the tank.
    #4
  5. pennswoodsed

    pennswoodsed lizards,bugs and me

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    805
    Location:
    Reading,Pa
    The taillight made it all clear . The idea ,not the taillight
    #5
  6. L.B.S.

    L.B.S. Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,506
    Mother of all things Godforsaken! :huh

    Bless your heart for rescuing that poor thing and giving back some of it's dignity :lol3

    :clap
    #6
  7. RedRaptor22

    RedRaptor22 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 24, 2012
    Oddometer:
    163
    Location:
    Louisiana
    #7
  8. melville

    melville Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,550
    Location:
    Behind the Redwood Curtain
    These were built by the same guy:

    [​IMG]

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    He said (and his wife confirmed) that he makes up excuses to go ride them. "Oh gosh, we're out of that? I'll be right back!" IIRC, one was a 750, the other was a 920. More impressive is that he took only 5 months to do it--it took me 5 years to do a stock Airhead.

    Good luck with your project!
    #8
  9. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2013
    Oddometer:
    48
    Location:
    Los Alamos, NM
    Thanks guys...and RedRaptor22 thanks for the link, I forgot about that one! Even though it's more street, he does do some write up on different suspension set-up and such, just have to wade deep into the thread! And I don't think he ever really says WHAT he used.

    Love the look of the grey one, and I wonder if that yellow one's scrambler-style exhaust is 2-into-1?

    Luckily when I get a jones to hop on a bike, I can walk out to my 86 Goldwing Aspencade, or kick around in the backyard on the TTR125L, or just to stir the fluids...the boy's TTR90E, and very occasionally, dad's old RT1, when it's not serving as a tank donor for the projects! :lol3

    Forgot to mention that there's more wiring missing than I had hoped...pulled up the simplified wiring diagram from ViragoTech and gonna see if I can adapt it, plus adapt the trailer converter mentioned above. I guess there's a fine line between hacking and butchering huh?
    #9
  10. melville

    melville Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,550
    Location:
    Behind the Redwood Curtain
    I think there's a whole nother pipe on the left side. IIRC it snakes forward from the rear cylinder and then back to match the one you can see.
    #10
  11. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2013
    Oddometer:
    48
    Location:
    Los Alamos, NM
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    Got home to a delivery of 5 boxes. Speedometer from XV535 and cable (cable was too short so not going to try to modify it to bolt on to the sender), headlight brackets from an XV920R, headlight from an XT200 (after comparing to XT500 light, decided I like that they look "slimmer" and it's got a plastic housing which is a LITTLE lighter),
    rear brake switch, and a stock airbox (still deciding if I want to convert it back to that).

    Speedometer mounted up in the location I thought it would, the headlight brackets needed a little bit of help but mounted to the factory locations that were present (and will get pulled and painted before final assembly), and the XT200 light actually looks pretty good!

    Now just waiting for some wiring "stuff" and for the tank sealant to finish curing, get it painted, and hopefully get this thing on the road until I figure out what shock will work for the rear...oh yeah and until I get the 18" Seca wheel and have a dual sport tire mounted on it...then a matching one for the front wheel. But progress continues!

    Oh and mounted up the crash bars...they're not nearly as wide as I had remembered/pictured. Thinking about building off of them to add a "skidplate" assembly that bolts to where the centerstand USED to be.
    #11
  12. bk brkr baker

    bk brkr baker Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2006
    Oddometer:
    6,075
    Location:
    The Bluegrass
    [​IMG]



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    This is my XV920RH {chain drive} that I modded for a cross country trip in '09.
    I made the skid-pan because I wanted worry free gravel road travel and that worked pretty well. The weight and lack of ground clearence work against you but if you go slowly enough it works O.K.
    I don't know if you plan to add pannier racks, the ones I made were fasioned from a trashed luggage rack from an ATV.
    Good luck and take it places.
    #12
  13. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2013
    Oddometer:
    48
    Location:
    Los Alamos, NM
    Thanks for the pics! I had seen your bike when I did a search for XV's on here, a lot of great, well thought-out additions to it. I'm still debating between seal-savers or going the redneck route and building some slider-protectors out of PVC pipe. I like the battery cover too...I just picked up some scrap aluminum from a machine shop so that may be on my to-do list soon. I'm watching a couple of auctions on ebay for tanks like on yours, but since I just sealed mine, I'll probably just run with it for now. I also recently learned that the Seca tanks are direct swaps also, look a lot like the XV920R tank, and seems like they're going for a LOT less than the 920 tanks.

    I thought I had seen another VX with a crashbar like yours, is that an aftermarket one?

    The plan for mine is more of a daytrip/minimalist bike since I have my Goldwing for longer trips, but I will probably add soft saddlebags like I had for my Sabre and Bandit. Pretty cool recycling of the ATV racks...if I run into any I might just steal that idea, especially if I find any aluminum "bumpers" like you see on Banshees and such. Like these:

    http://www.davescycle1.com/servlet/the-3215/Yamaha-87-dsh-06-YFZ350-Banshee/Detail

    Or maybe the nerfbars, since they're a little bit of aluminum, plus netting:

    http://www.motosport.com/atv/2002-yamaha-warrior--AC-RACING-NERF-BARS


    I noticed it looks like you have a swingarm mounted fender close to the rear tire...any particular reason why? For the skidplate I was thinking about two bars coming down from the existing crashbar, going back to where the centerstand was bolted on, and then building a thin-ish skidplate (like you said mostly for gravel/mud/debris protection more than really a bashguard). That way it shouldn't hang too low, and I'm trying to minimize the amount of weight I'm adding back to the bike.

    What tankbag is that on yours? It's not an Icon Urban is it? I still have my Icon Urban that I'll probably never do without because it's so dang handy! That bag has been used with probably a good 8 or 10 bikes and is one of the only accessories I have never replaced/changed. It's getting pretty rough so I'm looking to get a new one of the same design sometime in the future. I have had the bag on my Bandit at 100 mph, held on ONLY by the magnets and it didn't budge.

    http://www.rideicon.com/products/?productGroupId=1961

    The Seca wheel came in last night...brake measured the same, same design, in the 18" so I'm stoked! I think I'm going to probably swap it on since the tire is practically brand-new and run with it for awhile, sell the 16" wheel, and maybe next Spring swap to dual-sport tires. We shall see!
    #13
  14. bk brkr baker

    bk brkr baker Long timer

    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2006
    Oddometer:
    6,075
    Location:
    The Bluegrass
    The crashbar was cut down from a UJM 4cylinder one I had in my pile. The braces running back to the frame were made from some old drag-style handlebars.
    You could always do the "Belt and Braces " with PVC guards and Seal Savers. The Seal Savers work well . I have them on my KLR also.
    The tankbag is a Wolfman I picked up in the Flea Market , here on ADV.
    The sidecovers were made from old road signs. The left side cover has a little style to it , the battery cover is just big.

    [​IMG]

    My skidplate was cut from some 1/4" aluminum plate that was tossed at a factory my buddy works at. I ran the bottom all the way back to attach to the centerstand lugs. The front has a built in tool box that while it's nice to have is pretty small in size. My longer wrenchs have to go in the panniers.
    The inner rear fender , hugger, was stock on the XV920. The one I bought was missing it so I made one from an old Preston Petty fender mainly to keep crap off the shock.
    Good news on the 18" wheel. I'm happy with the Shinko's and they cost about $100.00 per set.
    #14
  15. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2013
    Oddometer:
    48
    Location:
    Los Alamos, NM
    That's cool...I'm the recycling type also. I thought maybe they were like these crashbars:

    http://www.chopperbargains.eu/yamaha/91-yamaha-virago-xv-750-1100-heavy-duty-crash-bar.html

    Hugger...I forgot that's what they're called...hadn't noticed one on any of the XVs I've seen in person. I'm thinking more "mudflap" for mine, like on dirtbikes and such. EDIT: I admit, never have seen an XV920R in person, googled them and indeed...a hugger came stock!

    That's a cool idea for a toolbox location...one of the reasons I'm re-thinking the DT100 fender is because I'm contemplating building an under-the-seat toolbox with some of the scrap...or maybe some of the roadsigns I have laying around also.

    Thanks again!
    #15
  16. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2013
    Oddometer:
    48
    Location:
    Los Alamos, NM
    [​IMG]

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    So it's back together, and mostly wired. For some reason I couldn't seem to get the horn button to work, even after pulling the assembly apart and checking it/cleaning it...and yes if I take the ground side of the horn directly to ground it 'beeps' like it should.

    Also couldn't get the turn signals to work (gee, on the same assembly so...maybe a grounding issue?). I bolted up the shorter Bandit turnsignals on the front, and they don't look too bad but I'll most likely eventually go with small cat-eyes if I can get them to work. However the headlight low/high switch works so....any thoughts? I wired a circuit with a 2-prong flasher directly to the brown/white wire, the pink wire goes to the horn, and the turn signals/horn/headlight should all be sharing the same ground, so I'm at a loss right now.

    So I didn't wire in the trailer converter to get the dual taillights to work as brake/turn signals, but the wiring is all there and should be possible.

    http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...converter/_/N-262o?itemIdentifier=143546_0_0_

    That's the one I bought at Autozone...it's really light and small, with plenty of length on the leads to tuck it somewhere.

    The next hurdle is to figure out why the kill switch isn't working either. I checked to see if it would kill continuity when in the "off" position and it did, but it's not killing power to the headlight/taillight/coils so yeah...I have some more tracing to do. I'm thinking that might have something to do with the horns/turn signals issue, a ground loop or something going on.

    While I was reconnecting the fuel lines, the bottom of the petcock came off and apparently it's just a press-fit? I put some gasoline-resistant non-curing RTV lightly on the sealing surface and re-installed as tightly as I could, going to check it this evening to see if it's a little more "snug."

    After these pictures I also installed the 18" Seca wheel and it was a direct-swap, and fashioned up a padded battery hold-down. I'm still thinking about bending/welding a custom cover for that side, still not sure if I'm going to go with the factory airbox on the other side, or make a custom cover and go with the air filter that's on there already. I really want to get the voltage regulator covered/protected though.

    I really don't like how low the rearend is sitting (it's about 4" from the fender when it's on the ground), I think I might have to just suck it up and do some measurements/research and see what progressive might have in the way of a longer, similarly-sprung and valved replacement shock, unless someone has seen for sure a direct-swap longer shock for these.

    A few more little details and it'll at least hopefully it will be on the road for some shakedown trips.
    #16
  17. 16VGTIDave

    16VGTIDave blame Reaver...

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2012
    Oddometer:
    599
    Location:
    Drumbo, Ontario, Canada
    I've been told that when using painted bars, one may have to remove the paint where the controls have bare metal tabs that are supposed to touch the bars to provide a ground path.

    Some bikes don't shut off the lights with the kill switch, mine doesn't...
    #17
  18. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2013
    Oddometer:
    48
    Location:
    Los Alamos, NM
    Thanks, I was thinking that too, but it seemed like the little internal ground wires that "screw" to the back of the horn button and run to the turn signal switch are connected to the headlight ground. Maybe not though...I might try that, since it does seem like there are tabs on both sets of controls that MIGHT act as grounds. I did leave the bar unpainted on the right side, but since it was painted on the left, I kept it painted.

    Makes me wonder though, since the bars are painted where they clamp to the mounts...where the heck would the ground "travel" even if it was bare metal under the controls?

    That's good to know about the headlights...I was kind of wondering that, since I hadn't checked that on my Goldwing but I bet that is the case. I was thinking on my TW200 it did shut the light off, and on my RT1 the headlight /taillight is actually a different position on the "ignition switch" so sometimes I forget that streetbikes are different animals!
    #18
  19. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2013
    Oddometer:
    48
    Location:
    Los Alamos, NM
    [​IMG]

    I like this pic of your bike...helps to get the FULL idea of that skidplate! :rofl
    #19
  20. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2013
    Oddometer:
    48
    Location:
    Los Alamos, NM
    So I pulled the left controls apart, cleaned the back of the horn assembly (it was a bit oxidized), re-soldered the pink wire to the center post of the horn since it was hanging by a couple strands, put it back together, and now the horn and front signals work.

    After I get the kill switch issue resolved, I'll wire up the rear signals via the trailer converter, wire in the keyed on/off switch that I have, and hopefully get it on the road!

    STILL can't find any info on the travel limits of the shaft-drive assembly. :-S
    #20