XV920 from bobber to hopefully ADV bike

Discussion in 'Some Assembly Required' started by dakman74, Apr 29, 2013.

  1. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

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    Update...so it works...the trailer converter wiring, that is. So now I have dual taillights that will blink for the left/right signals while the other stays lit during braking. Now to find some cat-eye front signal stalks that suit the bike.

    Hopefully shakedown trip tomorrow. Bike is all back together, just need to fab a small mount for the keyed on/off switch I installed.
    #21
  2. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

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    Maiden voyage on it today...everything seemed ok, except neither turning the key off nor using the kill switch would turn off the bike. Doing both and then giving it some throttle makes it sputter and die, but obviously the coils are still getting juice somehow after the power from the battery is disconnected. :-S

    I'm still striking out on a longer replacement shock idea, other than a progressive shock. Not sure what the shaft-drive can take though! I'm dying to give it a taller rear so the stance is less "cruiser."

    EDIT: Crap, after riding it to work...two issues...apparently the exhaust slipped back enough that it was lightly contacting the tire...wore a nice little (not too deep) groove around not quite the center of the tire...dangit! And it's got an oil leak from the area I'll describe below this picture:

    [​IMG]

    So on the right side, the area with a cover, where the wiring is coming out...oil leak...which is unfortunately bad enough that at speed it blows oil towards the rear tire...gotta love project bikes! Anyone know what that cover is hiding and how hard it's going to be to seal it?

    UPDATE: Oil Level switch and cover is what I was after...sealed with an o-ring. Pulled it off, o-ring was good but a little loose, oil-resistant RTV applied to the groove and o-ring, plus the surface below the o-ring for good measure. Letting it cure, then if it seals, never messing with it again since it's disconnected anyway! Thanks for the info. bk brkr baker!
    #22
  3. Entrepre-neer

    Entrepre-neer Ultimate Tight A$$

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    I'm digging that headlight. Nice compact housing. I've never seen one that tapered at that front outer edge that way. cool.

    I considered cutting that little tab off. Glad I read this. It may be important.
    #23
  4. Entrepre-neer

    Entrepre-neer Ultimate Tight A$$

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    You should steal the bars and controls from your blue bike...:evil
    #24
  5. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

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    Yeah..housing is plastic, but it's lightweight and I like the way it looks too. Thanks!



    Well supposedly on the 920s it doesn't do anything, but I was told that on the XV750s that one side of the controls does ground through the bars. I have all the grounds sorted out, now just working through some other hacks the P/O had done to it.
    #25
  6. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

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    Nah, that one is pretty much staying as-is, unless I get rid of the speedo/odo and maybe the taillight for something smaller. It's Off-Highway only so no need for any of the street-legal stuff, just want to keep it trail-useable...if I don't sell it in a fit of insanity.
    #26
  7. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

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    So...boneheaded me thought that...hmm an 83 XT200 should be 12V, so didn't even think to check the bulb. Went to start it yesterday morning and the low beam was burned out. I thought, oh well...must just be from old age, shipping, etc....so flipped on the high beam and rode to work. Got to work and hey...high beam is out. Started looking online and all the XT200 batteries are 6V...ugh.

    Told a co-worker about it and he says...I have an H4 upgrade for 12V yamaha dirtbikes that I can't use...do you want it? So I say hell yeah! (he also donated some passenger footpegs that I need to mount). Pulled the headlight and sure enough if you put a flashlight to it you can read 6V 35/35...drove to his garage in the evening, grab the upgrade, the footpegs, and a set of clamp-on highway pegs that I'm debating whether or not to add to the crashbars...took it all home, and with a little bit of work got the H4 upgrade mounted up. Yay...headlights again! Since the XVs originally ran an H4 bulb in the square lights, should be good to go.

    Oh one other thing...the bike seems to be pretty cold-blooded in the morning, and I think the fuel feed isn't that great to the right-side carb when the bike is on the sidestand. If I get it started, then sit on the bike and stand it upright, the idle smooths out and increases a bit, like it's getting more flow to the right carb. I'm wondering if that's common with these bikes? When I first looked at the fuel line routing, I was wondering if that little bit of uphill fuel-line when it was on the sidestand was going to be an issue. You'd think the fact that the tank and petcock are still above it would negate the problem...but I'm not so sure now. Maybe it's the fact that it's got an inline filter installed?

    I need to get a new picture...put on the "T-bags" tankbag that I bought cheap (half-off...$15) from the local "dealer"...I'd have paid full-price just to laugh everytime I look down at the tank and see "T-bags" :-) I wouldn't trust the suction cups anyway, so re-worked the tether strap to actually hold the bag to the tank by running it all the way down under the tank and attached to two other straps that I added to hold the back of the bag down. It's not going anywhere...and around here I don't worry about it walking off. Also put on a Stearns seatpad...I've used them on ATVs, my TW200, etc. and for the $$ they are fantastic at preventing numb-butt!
    #27
  8. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

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    [​IMG]

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    I'm jonesing for some dual-sport tires, but I think with the fiasco of the exhaust rubbing the street tire on the 18" Seca wheel, I may have to swap to like a MAC 2-into-1 before mounting the 18" wheel with a dual-sport tire on it.

    I guess I'm also just going to bite the bullet and buy a 1" longer progressive shock...no air...should give me about 2 more inches of travel, according to the viragotech forum guys. I sure wish I could find a swap shock instead!

    UPDATE: For cheap, I'm going to see how much modifying I'm going to have to do to mount a Grizzly 600 rear shock. The eyes LOOK about the same size, it's about 17" long eye-to-eye and adjustable for pre-load. When/if it get it installed, I'll let everyone know how it went. With the ratio of about 2:1 when it comes to the rear shock, the extra 1.5" length SHOULD equate to about 3" more of height/travel. We shall see! Like the guy that took a chance with the CX500 shaftie, I suppose I'm just gonna try it and hope it's good.
    #28
  9. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

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    Got the cat-eye front signals installed...looks pretty good. Also cut out the sidecover/battery-cover out of aluminum and having a buddy weld it up. Once I get it mounted, definitely picture time again.

    Freakin oil filter cover still leaking, bit the bullet and ebayed a complete "right crankcase cover" with oil filter cover included. It's from a midnight and a bit scratched, so I'll either touch it up or use the stripping wheel and just bring it to bare aluminum. Ahh the fun of reviving a poor, abused bike!
    #29
  10. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

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    [​IMG]

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    Update: Grizzly rear shock went on with no modification to the shock or mounts needed. Seems to like the 3rd position on the preload with just me on it.

    To make it fit, had to "massage" the stock exhaust can a bit for clearance for the tire and for the brake tension arm. Looks more and more like this exhaust has to go, especially if I want the 18" wheel with D/S tire to mount and clear, I'm fairly sure the MAC 2-into-1 will clear...when I have the $$ it'll be on order unless I can come up with something else. The other option is to cut a portion of the center exhaust can out and then re-weld it in with more clearance. Anyone know if the inside of the can has any baffling or diverters that I'll run into if I go that route?

    Got the midnight clutch cover/oil filter housing cover in the mail, but haven't installed it yet. Might just slap on the oil filter housing cover this evening and see if that solves the trickle from that area. I noticed that the one I just got has 2 o-rings on it, and I'm pretty sure the one I have on the bike just had one. There's the one that sits in the slot on the "barrel" of the cover, and then on the one I just received, there's one on the "nose" of the cover that looks like it would contact the oil filter. I'll keep ya posted on what I find!

    After these pics were taken I extended the kickstand. I used some larger-diameter tubing and slipped as much of the stock kickstand into the tube as possible at both ends before welding, but since it's fairly long it sure seems a bit flexy. Might look into an aftermarket stand, or add more material to it. Time will tell!
    #30
  11. bk brkr baker

    bk brkr baker Long timer

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    Looks like a major increase in height and travel. Maybe now you can add some MX forks to balance the stance.
    Ground clearence is good , but , my 30 '' legs won't let me jack up the height radically.
    Does the testing show any binding or excess jacking with the shaft drive?
    #31
  12. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

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    Actually the fork travel is on par with the shock. I think with some progressive springs and a brace they'll do fine for what I want. Not planning to jump the thing.

    No vibration so far. At max droop the angle is about the same as it was stock at max compression so I think it should be ok. EDIT: meant to mention that now that the shaft is not straight back in-line from the engine, there seems to be a little bit of shaft-effect (it will lift the back end a little when you whack the throttle open hard). Much like my Honda Sabre would do stock, so I'm so used to it that I forgot to mention that change in behavior.

    My legs aren't much longer than yours and the bike is fine for me. Still lower than my XR400R was. I can pretty much flat-foot it. Might be that my seat is quite a bit lower than yours though.
    #32
  13. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

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    I really just need to pop for a Clymer's manual for the bike, but after trial and error I figured out that the oil leak was due to the flattened o-rings on the oil filter housing. I'm guessing between the two o-rings there is pretty good oil pressure, since if I'm guessing correctly it's pumped into one side of the cover and through the filter. Yet another quirky design on this bike. Luckily the hardware store around the corner has a decent supply, so found some that would fit. I always try to use a little bit of oil-resistant RTV and let it cure, so it has been sitting 48 hours and I filled it with oil tonight. Started it up and brought it up to op-temp and so far, so good. Fingers crossed!

    Next...fork seals and seal-savers. Exciting stuff! Haha
    #33
  14. NYTrainer

    NYTrainer Been here awhile

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    I am working on one right now...
    #34
  15. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

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    What are you doing to it?
    #35
  16. Entrepre-neer

    Entrepre-neer Ultimate Tight A$$

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    I've heard you can heat those copper washers up to red hot and let them cool to take them back to their original state. Crushing them work hardens them and heating them anneals them to make them soft again.

    I have gone a step further to flatten them by lightly sanding with a piece of 800 grit on a really flat surface like a piece of window glass.
    #36
  17. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

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    Yep, I've done the heating trick with oil-pan washers and it works ok, but in my experience they don't so much return to their original shape as just soften again. Eventually they're just too flattened. But the one's I replaced are actually rubber o-rings, one sits in a groove, the other sits on a "snout" at the end of the oil filter cover. Between these two o-rings is a hole in the "barrel" fed from I'm guessing the oil pump, so these o-rings apparently see pretty significant oil-pressure.
    #37
  18. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

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    Loooong "winter" break, no real progress, until now. I finally ordered the MAC 2-into-1 exhaust, got it mounted up last week, and it looks like the 18" wheel should clear with a dual-sport tire on it. Bonus, sounds good and I think it looks a lot better than the stock pipes, and shaved a bit of weight. Eventually I think I'm going to swap the muffler for a Supertrapp (in black to match the pipes). Definitely going to need to fab up a decent skidplate if I'm gonna bash around anywhere significant. It's finally warming up enough here to be able to get out and ride a bit! Too bad it's the Springtime windy season, killing my allergies right now!

    Oh yeah, also ordered up a 4-brush starter....man I wish I didn't have to drain the oil and remove one of the engine covers to swap it! Supposedly it'll be the cure for my starter woes...we'll see! Last time I cracked it open, the starter gears looked ok. :-)
    #38
  19. pennswoodsed

    pennswoodsed lizards,bugs and me

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    Hi ,
    I love re purposed bikes .Have you done the other starter fixes ? Since you mentioned not enjoying yanking covers off,maybe do all doo dads that can be done under that cover at one time?
    Regards,Ed
    #39
  20. dakman74

    dakman74 moto-butcher expert

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    Yep, I've done all the other "fixes"...and have come to the same conclusion that others have after trying them all...the main problem is the weak 2-brush starter. I've been into the case before (obviously, since I mentioned that the gears look ok). Shimming the internals on the 2-brush helped marginally, adding a ground helped...again a little bit, but the problem is still that the 2-brush just doesn't have the ooomph to sling that gear and keep it there.
    #40