Yamaha RD350 clean up/rebuild *Help*

Discussion in '2 smokers' started by thomasac92, Oct 24, 2011.

  1. thomasac92

    thomasac92 Adventurer

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    I just purchased this 1973 Yamaha RD350 a few days ago for $750. It's not running, and it needs a lot of work, e.g. carbs, points, gas tank, brakes, rust, greasy mess. This is my first motorcycle so, I figured I would go all out.

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    I downloaded the original manual for it online but it didn't explain how to remove the carbs for cleaning. I tried for a while earlier but I don't have an allen wrench that can fit between all of the hoses and tight corners. I tried just loosening the clamps at the y-boot and on the other side but there wasn't enough play to remove it. Am I doing this wrong?

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    #1
  2. gloud

    gloud Been here awhile

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    You need to loosen the clamps next to the carbs, try to rotate them first. that will loosen them up. then the fun parts it to get the 35 year old rubber on the back of the carbs to the airbox to bend a little so you can move the carbs back and then
    twist them to the outside. take the sidecovers off and the tank and you will have a better go at it.

    Make sure to take the oil injector lines off too. the clamp on them slides off and then you can twist the line a little to help break it free.

    Oh and do yourself a favor and buy a few cans of engine cleaner and a scub brush and start cleaning it BEFORE you take the carbs off.
    That thing is Nasty.
    #2
  3. thomasac92

    thomasac92 Adventurer

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    That's what I was doing earlier but I could only get the right carb to move. I guess I'll just mess with it some more.
    #3
  4. thomasac92

    thomasac92 Adventurer

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    It probably looks a lot worse than it is since it's painted black. But its still pretty gross.
    #4
  5. Sniper X

    Sniper X De Oppresso Liber

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    I don't think that is black paint, probably 2 stroke oil caked all over the carbs. DON'T remove the oil lines! Take the carb top after you get the carbs clamps loose and remove them and we will go from there. FIRST I would take it to a quarter car wash, and apply a half gallon of degreaser and let it sit for a half hour and go for it with the high pressure hose.
    #5
  6. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    theres a rubber line between the 2 carbs that might be rotted/stiff and stopping them from rotating...
    #6
  7. Sniper X

    Sniper X De Oppresso Liber

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    Part of the reason I suggest a big time cleaning before trying to rip it apart.
    #7
  8. Houseoffubar

    Houseoffubar HoFmetalworks.com

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    Get the rubber GOOD, and warm, this will help too.
    #8
  9. hrcs90

    hrcs90 Adventurer

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    Yes, clean the S.O.B first. Also a can of silicon spray to help with the petrified rubber pieces. I have always had good luck with Honda's silicon, if they even sell it anymore.
    #9
  10. Bloodweiser

    Bloodweiser honestly

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    Sweet!:clap
    I just started an RD project myself.



    Did this like a month ago:
    pulled everything that was going into the carbs,
    got the throttles off
    loosened the clamps
    and pulled it away from the boot and intake.

    I didn't have to use it,
    but if I met with any resistance I woulda reached for some WD.



    So, why are we telling this guy not to take the oil lines off?
    :ear



    Thomas - how long has the bike been sitting?
    #10
  11. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    the little oil lines nipples are not available (or weren't least time i looked) - and i've seen broken ones...
    #11
  12. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    I think what people are trying to say about the oil nipples is that you should pull them out of the carbs, instead of pulling the lines off of the nipples. That's how I deal with mine when I take my RD's carbs off. I would also recommend putting a small dab of threebond around the nipples when you put them back into the carbs. I had one vibrate out once. I looked down and I had oil all over the side cover and my shoe. Miraculously, the engine was okay. I still can't see how that would be. I would say the most important thing you can do towards RD understanding and happiness, is to check out 2strokeworld.com. Not to shit on folks here, but there is a good group of RD obsessed folks like me over there. Without them, I would have given up on trying to get mine running well. Have fun with your RD. Every time I ride mine, I just can'r believe what a blast it is.
    #12
  13. concours

    concours WFO for 44 years

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    OP, tell us a bout yourself, specifically your skillset. We need to know at which level you will begin. Past repairs? Lawnmowers? Cars? Boats? Cylinder index? more info please...
    #13
  14. Mattbastard

    Mattbastard Lazy ass

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    Don't worry about taking the lines off. There's these things called Corbin Clamps. They work great for spring clamping down hoses.

    When I bought my first RD350 project I just took it apart, cleaned everything, then modified as I put it back together.

    Also, http://www.HVCcycle.com
    #14
  15. Skowinski

    Skowinski Eukaryote

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    Looks pretty original, nice find. Had a friend who had a 350 and a 400 back in the day, and I alway kinda wanted one myself. If you get tired of messing with it just PM me and I will give you my address for forwarding it to... :D
    #15
  16. east high

    east high Been here awhile

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    Do yourself a favor and replace the coils and plug wires while you're at it. Those old things go bad in the worst way.
    #16
  17. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    :clap:clap:clap But make it look like this, sorry wrong colors that is a 74, my second road bike from when I worked at the Yamaha dealer.... in 74. I have the rest of the pamphlet if you'd like I can scan it.:wink:

    Now go make a little smoke but....set it right, no holes in them pistons please.:D:D:D

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    #17
  18. thomasac92

    thomasac92 Adventurer

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    This is my first real mechanical project. I've only worked on bicycles. My dad and brother know a lot more about engines than I do and they're still pretty clueless.

    The seller said everything is original. And it definitely looks it, too. I may be under skilled and intimidated, but I'm not fed up with it yet!

    I'm trying just to go piece by piece because if I strip this thing down to the frame, I'm not sure if I could put it back together again!
    #18
  19. stainlesscycle

    stainlesscycle Long timer

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    the issue isn't the line, it's the nipple. they break, and also they get very loose in the carb. i've had one fall out also...
    #19
  20. lrutt

    lrutt SILENCE.....i kill you

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    Zip lock baggies are your friend. Bag and label everything, ie all the bolts that hold the front wheel and fender on, bagged and labeled. etc. etc. etc. Help a lot to keep things straight.

    Best advice and this is coming from someone who has brought a LOT of old iron back to life: Clean it up and get it mechanically all proper first, then make it pretty. That way you don't mess up paint etc. Get the carbs rebuilt, do your leak down test and replace crank seals, do the motor top end of need be, get the brakes all rebuilt, get all the electrics working, forks rebuilt etc.

    Once it runs right and all is well, then tear it down to paint etc. and put new tires on or do the chroming you need to do. Piece of cake after that.
    #20