Yamaha RD350 clean up/rebuild *Help*

Discussion in '2 smokers' started by thomasac92, Oct 24, 2011.

  1. Skowinski

    Skowinski Eukaryote

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    :nod Currently restoring a 71 Honda CB500. Almost everything gets stuffed in marked bags, or has a tape label on it. There will be no question on anything when it goes back together.

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    #21
  2. thomasac92

    thomasac92 Adventurer

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    Finally got them out, and found this....

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    Is this normal? Looks pretty clean to me. The bottom bowl wasn't too bad either.

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    Progress

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    #22
  3. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    You'll find if you toss the carbs in a vat of Berryman chemdip and leave 'em for a few hours the black paint comes right off (even if your prefer that is didn't) :lol3
    #23
  4. markjenn

    markjenn Long timer

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    You need to read up on carb cleaning techniques. This is not something where you just throw them in a vat of cleaner and they come out ready to use. You can't tell didlly-squat just looking down the throats.

    - Mark
    #24
  5. Witness

    Witness Me

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  6. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    I hate to be the guy to say it, but it seems like maybe you're in over your head. These bikes are very simple, but not very forgiving. This is a 38 year old bike, with lots of old rubber parts. An air leak anywhere in your engine will create a lean condition, and either seize the engine or hole a piston. With your first question about how to get the carbs off, it showed the you are pretty unfamiliar not only with this bike, but with mechanical stuff in general. I really do not mean to throw sand in your eyes here, but I think a better thing to do would be to get a bike that runs and rides, and ease into maintenance, then repair and modification when you've gained familiarity with things of this nature. Do you have a friend or family member who can hold your hand through this? That is invaluable, though I realize that these forums act in a similar way.
    #26
  7. welder

    welder Long timer

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    http://www.motocarrera.com/advice.htm read this advice page very carefully. Especially the part about ignition timing. Also do a leak down test to check the crank seals. They need to be in good shape for the bike to run right. You can find the instructions on youtube.
    #27
  8. thomasac92

    thomasac92 Adventurer

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    When people tell me stuff like this, it just makes me want to do it even more. I understand what youre saying, though.
    #28
  9. OD650

    OD650 Adventurer

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    That's some pretty sage advice you're getting here, might want to take it to heart. From the looks of those photos the carbs have a bunch of crap in them, and regardless of that they will need a good cleaning to get all the old varnished fuel out. Get yourself a few cans of brakleen and go over the manual till those things are nice and clean. It's a pretty bike and it would suck to hole a piston due to laziness/apathy, also I don't know about you but I don't have $750 to throw away when I could just ride it away.:evil Have fun with it, and learn to wrench your own ride! I always wanted an RD but they never come up for sale round here, at least not for 750.
    #29
  10. concours

    concours WFO for 44 years

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    Go very carefully, lot's of mis-information floating about. First get a FACTORY service manual, not a Clymer or Haynes. Two stroke engines are simple in theory, a bit more complex in design. The devil is in the details. Crankshaft seals are CRUCIAL. Read and understand about fuel mixture, the fatal consequences of a lean mixture and resultant high temperatures which are very different from a four stroke.
    #30
  11. thomasac92

    thomasac92 Adventurer

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    I'm soaking one of the carbs now but I couldn't get the bowl off the bottom of the other one. Any tricks for this?

    I definitely don't want to ruin the bike which is why I'm reading as much as I can about each piece before I try and mess with it. I'm probably going to ask a lot of stupid questions.
    #31
  12. lrutt

    lrutt SILENCE.....i kill you

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    Where exactly are you located?

    I'm in Deltona and have a lot of experience rebuilding bikes. If you're close by I could give you some face to face advice etc. or you could stop by and I'd help you with things like the carbs etc.
    #32
  13. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

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    Thomas, you should have dinner waiting for him, and be in your French maid outfit when he arrives. Well maybe, not the second part, but you want to make him feel appreciated. This is the kind of help you need, real hands-on face to face help.
    #33
  14. thomasac92

    thomasac92 Adventurer

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    I live a few blocks from downtown orlando. But I don't have a car. Strictly bicycle until I finish this. But my parents live in Deltona so maybe we could work something out when I'm visiting them.
    #34
  15. concours

    concours WFO for 44 years

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    Yes, the "trick" is to put down the phillips screwdriver you are using, search for a JIS #2 that will fit those screws properly. Get a #1 and 3 while you're at it. That's Japanese Industrial Standard, Repeat, JIS, JIS, JIS, JIS!!!!!! And some decent 6 point metric sockets. http://www.ikaswebshop.com/jisphilips.html and http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00934554000P?vName=Tools+%26+Equipment&sName=Tools+Sets&cName=Hand+Tools&i_cntr=1319714023792
    And also a GOOD (NOT Crapsman) set of metric allen wrenches, 4, 5, 6, 8 and 10mm. Bondhus is a decent brand. http://bondhus.com/products/l-wrenches/body32.htm Have fun!
    #35
  16. woody's wheel works

    woody's wheel works Built to Last

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    most folks here have chimed in with some solid suggestions namely:

    1,,have the proper tools for the job which includes phillips screwdriver bits that fit

    2,, if you don't mind having a plain aluminum carb,,well then soak your carb in the berrymans,,because an hour or more it will act like a paint-stripper and all the black will just melt and wash off when you rinse:huh:eek1:cry

    3,,heat and compressed air and a hand held impact are the restorers best allies,,don't have hand held impact ,,no sweat ,ya can improvise by using your screwdriver and a leather/plastic mallet and giving the screw a good wack using the proper bit of course,,,some screw drivers have a little hex bolt head near the handle ,,,that's so you can put the box end of wrench and use it for leverage[make sure ya really push in to the screw with your handle before slowly attempting to bust it loose...FYI,,,no hex head on screwdriver,,ya can always improvise with some channel locks or vise grips.. i use a dedicated beater screwdriver with a good tip.:deal

    4,,the sticking float bowel,,Rx=spray a little carb cleaner around the perimeter by the gasket,,next squirt some carb cleaner into the fuel spigot and slosh it around so the gasket gets soaked inside and out,,,let it soak for 20 minutes applying a little more cleaner if it looks dried out,,,next grab the carb in your palm and with a plastic mallet rap the lower edge of the float bowel..that'll do it most of the time...escalating the pressure i mov eon to holding the carb sometimes i take a shop rag and wrap the carb why??? because i'm going to apply a little compressed air into the fuel spigot with one of those air guns that has a pointed rubber tip on it [harbor freight has em for circa $5],,,,and i don't want the float bowel to go flying across the room when it pops off:deal

    5,, at this stage you can do a pre- soak n clean or you can just go for removing all the jets and components,,,the pilot jet warrants a small slender common screwdriver that has a head that is pretty close to the diameter of the hole[i usually have to modify the screwdriver by grinding the part of the blade off so that i have maximum purchase on the jet]
    the bit about finding the slot of the pilot jet and the giving the lil screwdriver a little rap works wonders at loosening it

    6,,the pilot jet hole is so tiny ,,,about the diameter of a bristle on a wire brush[use the bristle to unplug the dirt n gunk that's built up in the orifice,,,blow out with compressed air,,this applies to all the other jets in th ecarb

    you'll know if those jets are plugged because your bike will start but consisntently die when you return your enrichening lever to the off position

    7,,warning,,do not mix up your float bowels or your carb slides !!!they have dedicated left and right components that can be swapped with dismaying results...like your enrichening system won't work [reversed float bowels,,,or you'll flood the motor with the slides reversed and so on

    that should get ya in and out of the woods:wink:

    woody
    #36
  17. thomasac92

    thomasac92 Adventurer

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    Thanks a lot woody! That really helps!

    I'll make sure to pick up some JIS tools as well.

    Is there a site to buy just the rubber gaskets for the carbs? Or would I have to buy the whole rebuild kit?
    #37
  18. Solo Lobo

    Solo Lobo airhead or nothing

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    The rebuild kits are a great idea... many contain all the rubber bits, new jets as well as those pesky screws from the bottom of the float bowls.
    #38
  19. concours

    concours WFO for 44 years

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    We call those "panel" or "cabinet" screwdrivers http://wihatools.com/300seri/302serie.htm

    The bowls and slides are identical for both sides.

    Study a diagram before you begin, it'll help you understand the assembly. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorcycles/1973-yamaha-motorcycle-rd350/o/m7510#sch209372
    #39
  20. woody's wheel works

    woody's wheel works Built to Last

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    1,,,i bet when you take the slides and place them next to each other you'll find the idle adjustment ramp to be on the outboard position and the guide rail on the inward side

    2,,,i bet that when you place the left and right float bowels side by side you'll find that the enriching gas gets sucked up from the right float bowel transfers to the left enriching circuits via the little rubber tube that is in between the carbs,,,you can tell because the right side has a hole drilled to the enriching fuel pick-up passageway whereas the left one remains undrilled.

    3,,i bet the right carb has a little brass tube that drops into the passageway i mentioned in #2 whereas the left carb is void of a pick-up tube

    but hey,,that's from a 35 years ago:wink:

    i saw the parts diagram you linked us to,,,maybe i'll see if i can get ya a different drawing,,in the meantime thomasac92,,why not double check what ya have ...
    w
    #40