Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Navigate 2 Adventure

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    Another perspective on the drop-off next to the rock juting out in the trail......call me a sissy, I don't care, I'm walking around it :lol3 :1drink

    [​IMG]
  2. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Navigate 2 Adventure

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    Sounds like you went through a lot of hassle.......I'll look into Woodies/Wheeling.......may even just buy a stock rim for ~$150 and relace.........thanks for the feedback!
  3. bhd1223

    bhd1223 Been here awhile

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    With the damage to my WR I need to replace the stock bars. I'm looking for a bend that is a little bit taller with a little bit less sweep. With my rough measurements on the stockers it appears the Pro Taper Henry/Reed bend provides this. Can those of you with this bend confirm?

    I'm also debating on sticking with 7/8 or going to a big bar. Are there any pros/cons of the choice other than the obvious bigger is stronger and new bar/hand guard mounts needed?

    Regarding the ends of big bars, I know they taper off the 7/8 for the controls. Do standard hand guard inserts still fit or are mods needed?

    Thanks.
  4. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Navigate 2 Adventure

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  5. bhd1223

    bhd1223 Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the advice. How does the sweep/pull back on those feel compared to stock? The height looks to be about what I want with the CR High as long as my rough measurements were good enough.
  6. DougZ73

    DougZ73 Fading off.........

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    I went through that exact stuff not too long ago. I now have, after bending a couple of sets of other bars, the ProTaper henry/reed bars. Henry/Reed is the one closest to stock...thanks for my fellow ADV'ers steering me that way when I was looking.

    I stuck with 7/8" myself since I already had the snazzy HDB top clamp and did not want to render it useless. Not to mention everything else on the bars is set for 7/8". The Protapers are hella thick, and strong.

    I am using some Pitposse.com generic risers to get a little more height on them since I stand 90% of the time while riding.

    The bar end/hand guard connector has to be for a smaller ID..inside diameter bar. Most come with both set ups. The stock bars bend like swiss cheese since they are pretty thin walled...comparatively.

    Hope that helps.
  7. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Navigate 2 Adventure

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    Couldn't tell ya, I never rode with the stock bars.......took those off as soon as I got home with the bike.......want'em? I actually have a lot of stock stuff laying around in my garage that I'll likely never use.......tank, exhaust, rear tail light, etc.....

    Also, I have a GPR stabilzer so my bars are lifted a bit......I went with the YZ bend....
  8. DougZ73

    DougZ73 Fading off.........

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    I could use a set of stock blinkers, on the cheap, if you have and want to get rid of those. :wink:
  9. SteveO

    SteveO ouch....

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    X2 on the Chub Bars. I have those and they seem to be pretty strong and are priced right for my silly budget....
  10. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Navigate 2 Adventure

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    I actually still have the stockers up front.......can't seem to break'em......yet :lol3 :D
  11. bhd1223

    bhd1223 Been here awhile

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    Well I just went and took some new rough measurements of the non bent side of the stockers. Somehow my height measurement is much different.

    Old Height: 4.5"
    New Height: 2.75" if not a little less

    My old width measurement was about 31" and I can't do a new one.

    My sweep or pull back is about the same.
    Old: 2.5"
    New: 2.25-2.5"

    Can anyone tell me if which height is more accurate? Based of these I think the YZ bend on the Chub Bar is a better option over the CR High.

    Also, I was wondering if anyone has replaced the plastics around the headlight. There is the top piece then the bottom part that screws into the black frame of the headlight assembly. Well, normally it may be one piece but the top piece popped off and won't pop back on because the lower piece is a little bent and cracked on the left side. Any ideas on exactly what I'd need to replace this? I've been looking on bike bandit for the 08 R and I can't figure out if part 12 is all I need on the headlight schematic. 13 looks like it may be needed but I imagine that broke off when the top piece broke off in the crash as I don't see it anywhere. I don't care about the graphics.
  12. SteveO

    SteveO ouch....

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    CrawDad,

    Considering that you do quite a bit of riding on your bike, what do you think about using the RimLocks?

    [​IMG]

    I'm in the process of ditching the stock tires on my WR250R and mounting up a D606 in the rear with a Heavy Duty Fly tube, and a K760 Trackmaster front tire with a Heavy Duty Fly tube.

    I was considering putting these Rim locks in both tires......

    Are they needed? Do they help with lower pressures?
    I'm not sure If i need them or not......
  13. greer

    greer Long timer

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  14. DougZ73

    DougZ73 Fading off.........

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    I was advised when I started riding offroad, if going any lower than 15 PSI, rim locks are a good idea. That is the rule of thumb I go with. And I usually set my tires down to 14 PSI for the sand I ride in.

    I know once, I got a flat, and the rim lock at least held the tire in place for me, so I could still ride it home without the tire coming off the rim.
  15. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Navigate 2 Adventure

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    Certainly couldn't hurt......and less weight needed opposite the valve stem to balance the wheel......that said, I've never bothererd with'em on the WR (I'm lazy :1drink).......only flats to date on WR have been on the rear tire........I can't believe I just typed that :huh........now I'm screwed :eek1 :lol3
  16. arkridergc

    arkridergc Been here awhile

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    Amen!
    Going to the Withrow Springs camping event next weekend. First actual DS gathering I've been able to make this summer. May try to ride Indian Creek tomorrow just to see if everything still works, Fall is just around the corner!:clap
  17. SteveO

    SteveO ouch....

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    cool beans guys.

    Thanks for your responses.

    I've got a rim lock for the front and rear coming to me....

    I figure with a Rim lock and some heavy duty tubes I should be set....
  18. ratthing

    ratthing refrigerated cybercanine

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    Just any FYI, found this today: Yamaha Emissions Warranty. It appears legit. For the WR250R/X, emissions warranty period is 11,185 mi (18K km) or 5 years whichever comes first.

    My '08 is at 600mi over the mileage limit, so I'm not going to bother trying to fight with them on the fuel pump. It'll cost me $100 for the diagnosis at the dealer before I can even get to that point. I can get a new pump for <$250.

    If I was under the warranty limit, I wouldn't hesitate, though. Food for thought for anyone else with a pump problem.

    =RT=
  19. Nice_Rumble

    Nice_Rumble Long timer

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    Actually, rim locks throw a rim out of balance, IMHO. I've always had smoother running rims without them.
  20. bobbed06

    bobbed06 Cavalera Conspirator

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    I just added MotionPro Litelocks to my DRZ. They are featherlight and look great installed as well. Minimal balance issues. You can also use Dynabeads in your innertube. They self balance.