Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. ironbrewer

    ironbrewer Hopefully Riding

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    I have to agree. In August I rode my KLR650 fully loaded with camping gear etc about 1200 miles around Colorado. It did great, but was a heavy pig. I picked up my new to me WR250r in Sacramento, and rode it home. It already had the IMS 4.7 gallon tank. I put on Wolfman racks and drybag panniers, plus a dry bag on top. I road Highway, slickrock(with the gear off), La Sal, Engineer, and Imogene passes. It was a great way to get used to a new bike. The WR250r, geared up with a 4.7 gallon tank felt way lighter than my KLR650 did without gear.
  2. DougZ73

    DougZ73 Fading off.........

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    In terms of the tank and the sloshing, I can attest to the effect, being one of the guys that rides with Trav most weekends. When he goes form one weekend with the smaller tank and me trying my best to keep up with him, to the following weekend with his bigger tank and more fuel, and me actually being ahead of him in the trail..it is having an obvious affect on his riding.

    What people have to understand, whether it be the fuel sloshing issue, stock tires or stock rear shock..what is fine for 95% of people that ride the bike, is not fine for the other 5% of us that push the bike and the riding to the limits. Are we expecting too much from our dual sport bikes....probably..but that does not change the fact that these are the bikes we have and what we ride, whether its a weekend of tight technical whooped out sand riding, or a leasurely 200 mile loop of dirt roads we could easily do in car.

    The truth is, if we could have small light easy to ride MX/2 stroke bikes to ride in the stuff we do....we would..and we'd save the WR for the easier riding dual sport trips. But, we need the bikes to be legal, do it all bikes, and take care of us on the trial, but then do just as well when we have to jump on the highway and have the same bike get us the 50 miles home.
  3. onetravdown

    onetravdown I can't ride where?

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    Sure, everything is subjective. But I came off a DRZ400s and an XR650L with a 5 gallon tank. :huh

    Yes! The IMS wings are huge and the fuel sloshes really bad. Enough that you are trying to get the bike to go one direction and it wants to go another. The Safari tank does not slosh nearly as bad as the IMS. The first ride I had with it, I was noticeable faster with less work and was more in control the entire ride. And I wasn't last.:D

    Here's a side by side comparison I did a while back of the two tanks to give everyone an idea. Not like most of you don't already know.
    [​IMG]
  4. Pantah

    Pantah Red Sox Nation

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    Picture is worth a lot of words...:D

    Still doesn't seem like much volume for sloshing, but I can see now why I don't notice on my Safari. Plus that fact that I'm clearly in the 95% group. It wasn't always that way...:wink:

    Thanks for pics.


  5. HighFive

    HighFive Never Tap-Out

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    :eek1 :eek1

    I think you've got to ride faster to stay ahead of the Slosh Curve. Like the Power Curve in aviation, its just no fun falling behind it.

    You'll know when you're ahead of the curve when you don't have time to think about the Slosh anymore. Cause its just too far down the priority tree (you don't have time to think about it). If you survive a ride like that, then you are probably stupid fast. :deal

    HF :thumbup

    p.s. emphasis on stupid
  6. Saltydog86

    Saltydog86 village idiot

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    I can not believe all the chatter about fuel sloshing....

    Its less than 5 gallons....your not pulling a tanker trailer with no baffles on a mountain pass. I have never once thought holy cow that fuel sloshed and I almost crashed.
  7. bhd1223

    bhd1223 Been here awhile

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    I agree that I've never thought fuel slosh has almost made me crash. I will say though that even having the 3.1 gal IMS I have noticed more slosh than with the stock tank at times. Nothing uncomfortable or anything, just noticeable. I can't imagine what the behemoth 4.7 gal IMS would feel like.
  8. onetravdown

    onetravdown I can't ride where?

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    Yep, there's no fuel sloshing in the 4.75, the stock shock is awesome and the stock tires are great in the dirt. :bert
  9. bhd1223

    bhd1223 Been here awhile

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    Haha. To add fuel to the fire, stock tires and dirt aren't so bad. Add some friendly H20 and that dirt becomes mud, stock tires turn to nothing better than slicks. It's a shame koolaid tastes like crap, I wish I could hold the beliefs some of those folks do. It would sure save me money.
  10. Cromoth

    Cromoth Inspection due 5_31

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    Thanks, I've just moved the TAT to my 70yr old bucket list from my 50's.:lol3

  11. OSU

    OSU Adventurer

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    I just did this today and mine was at -4 I moved it to 0 and now I can pop wheelies on accident haha! all I am adding is pictures to this tutorial, all credit is due to TwilightZone, Dirtytrixx400 and GSBS


    To access the controls for making these changes, you must first make a jumper wire to ground (did mine to the negative battery terminal) from the "extra" black wire in the connector for the lean angle sensor underneath the seat. There are three wires on one side of the connector that are used by the LAS and another black one on the opposite side that connects to nothing. This is probably used by the dealer to connect to Yamaha's diagnostic software.

    <a href="http://s873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_5943.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/IMG_5943.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
    OSU:(Here is the lean angle sensor under the seat.)

    <a href="http://s873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_5936.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/IMG_5936.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
    OSU:(There is the one lone black wire on this side of the connector.)

    <a href="http://s873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_5935.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/IMG_5935.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
    OSU:(Here is the other side, you need to jump the black wire to the ground wire on this side as seen in these next pictures.)

    <a href="http://s873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_5937.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/IMG_5937.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
    <a href="http://s873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_5942.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/IMG_5942.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    1. Hold down the "reset" and "select 1" buttons on the insturment cluster at the same time and Turn on the key (but don't press the starter button) while continuing to hold these two buttons. After 8 seconds the display will read "diag"
    <a href="http://s873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_5938.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/IMG_5938.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    2. Once in the "diag" screen, press the "select 1" button only. The display will change to "CO"
    <a href="http://s873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_5939.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/IMG_5939.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    3. Press both "reset" and "select 1" again (same as step 1) and after 3 seconds the display will show "0" on the left and "C1" on the right.
    <a href="http://s873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_5940.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/IMG_5940.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    4. Again press both "reset" and "select 1" for another three seconds and the display changes to "C1" at top right with a number shown below. This number is the current CO setting (it will be somewhere from -30 to +30)
    OSU:(mine was at -4 stock and I think 0 is the best setting if you are bone stock because I went to 1 and I couldn't do
    wheelies so I put it back to 0)
    <a href="http://s873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_5941.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/IMG_5941.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    6. Now start the bike. At the top left you'll have a digital tachometer. Also, while in this mode no mileage is recorded on the odometer. OSU:(you will need to remove the jumper and plug the connector back in in order to start to bike.)
    <a href="http://s873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_5944.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/IMG_5944.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
    <a href="http://s873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/?action=view&amp;current=IMG_5945.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab297/ferzen1000/IMG_5945.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

    7. To change a setting, use the "select 1" button to make the numbers higher (+) or the "reset" button to make them lower (-). When you turn off the ignition the bike is set to whatever number you had set at that time.

    OSU:(I am not the original writer of this I just added pictures all credit is do to TwilightZone, Dirtytrixx400 and GSBS)
  12. skierd

    skierd Wannabe Far-Rider

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    :rofl

    It is ~4600 miles start to finish if I remember my mileages right, and then you gotta get back. Unless its that kind of bucket list... :eek1:gerg
  13. Discojon75

    Discojon75 Been here awhile

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    Dude! Thanks! I'm not going to be able to sleep tonight until I go do this!
  14. skierd

    skierd Wannabe Far-Rider

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    Any X owners out there been through a lot of tires? I've worn out the stock tires on my new-to-me X wheels and need replacements. I know nothing about street motorcycle tires. Long wearing is my #1 priority, I rarely push it on the street and with winter coming I don't see me going to the track before spring, when this set of tires will be worn out anyways. Price is important too, trying to keep it under $200 for the set and better if its under $150 so I'm ignoring Distanzias. I wear through the things too damn fast to spend $1200/yr on rubber.

    I'm probably going to keep riding all winter, so I'm also debating just getting a 90/10 dual sport tire like the Shinko 705 or a 50/50 tire like the 244 to better deal with the sand, salt, slush, and other accumulated crap thats already starting to infect the roads again.

    244's
    [​IMG]

    705's
    [​IMG]

    Also thinking about the Duro HF918's as they're cheap at ~$120 a set. Or just getting another stock BT090 rear and using the barely worn front I have in the basement. Or the Continental SM or Sport Touring tires (Go or Motion). Or I dunno, help?


    Stock tire size is 110/70-17 front and 140/70-17 rear, not a ton of room for more on either end. 120/70-17's and 150/60 and 150/70's fit respectively, depending on the rear tire, but raise the front and either raise or lower the rear (and gearing) respectively.
  15. IdahoRenegade

    IdahoRenegade Long timer

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    OSU, thanks for the great writeup and detailed pictures. That takes a lot of the fear of making this mod away. I have a couple questions.

    1) Once in C1 mode, you mention removing the jumper and plugging the conn into the LAS. Do you turn the key off when you do this? Or just "hot plug" it?

    2) I believe from what you wrote that the C1 mode stays in effect when you start the bike, and you can make changes on the fly. In other words you don't stop the bike, plug the jumper in and reset a value.

    2) When you're done changing the C1 setting....how do you get the display back to normal?

    Thanks. If I just went ahead and did this mod it would probably be obvious. I'll be giving it a try this week...I like no-$$ mods and am too poor for a programmer right now.
  16. cug

    cug --

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    I find it very interesting how low your bike idles. Mine goes to ~ 1800rpm, have to check what it is when the bike is really warm, but I don't think it goes down much.

    What could be the reason for this?

    CO setting is "3", the bike does have a Graves free flow exhaust tip.
  17. OSU

    OSU Adventurer

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    Oregon
    I am at sea level and my bike was really warm from riding it at setting 1 but i put it back to 0 because I still have a lot of back pressure from the stock setup, you can adjust the idle on the throttle body.
  18. OSU

    OSU Adventurer

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    Oregon
    1) Hot plug it, if you turn off the ignition it will reset.

    2) yes you can essentially ride the bike while in this mode but I didn't because I can't see my speed, and I live in a college town with mean cops XD.

    3) turn off ignition then back on and it will be normal.

    ya me too haha, college student and all ( I want to big gun exhaust!! :D with quite core so I don't get other ADV riders kicked off trails)
  19. SR1

    SR1 Back in S. Korea

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    All, 'specially Skierd and Trav, thanks for your inputs.

    I think I will be just fine with the 3.1 and will check into that Justgastanks bladder. Maybe I can make some tank panniers and put a couple of 1 gallon bladders on the side, or somethin' else. Scratch that, at $129 for a 1 gal and $144 for a 2 gal, I'll get the 2 gal probably.

    Good discussion though! :freaky



  20. SR1

    SR1 Back in S. Korea

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    I am coming from really neither, as the WR is my first "dirt bike" at all. Good perspective here.