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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
All good info. I'll add that blowing a 30 amp fuse will most likely cause a noticeable spark/arc. Take a new fuse, and get the bike into a very low light area. Have somebody else with you for another set of eyes, and jam that new fuse in there. You should see a flash of light before the fuse blows directing you to the short.
I bought my '08 WRR from them. Never really even looked at the mileage thing before I bought. Essentially, I got mine for almost cost. Crawdaddy got a bout a $100 better deal than I did. Never had a problem with them, and I've bought three new bikes/quads from them.
Harbor Freight has them for under $5.
Understandable. I believe the poster of that comment was referring to their blatant false advertisement. This could lure some folks to purchase something they may not otherwise. In my opinion people should really research before they buy and as such won't be prey to such tactics. On the same note I prefer to restrict my business to companies I deem honest and not deceptive. If I were to experience the same thing as the poster I would likely put it out for people to see and try to get folks to spend their money elsewhere. I have no idea the exact circumstances of the interaction so I can't comment on what happened but I know if I politely informed them they were advertising false information and they responded in such a manner then they deserve to go out of business instead of some of the local shops to me that have gone out of business because they just couldn't move enough inventory when they were great people who were honest and helpful. Oh, sorry for that massively run on sentence. Haha.
Nothing like this chain alignment tool comes up in the HF search using the word "chain". Please post a link.
Thanks for your help. I replaced the cable and all seems to be well.
My Moose skid plate showed up today. Here's a shot comparing it to the Flatland Racing skid plate. It seems like a nice piece.... although I'm not sure why it costs so much.... $65-70 more than the Flatland Racing.
The plastic is pretty thick, but it still flexes, especially where it wraps around the engine, and I wonder if a big enough hit could bend it enough do some damage. Where it covers the water pump, the fit is very close... probably a few cm's, and that part is flexible so I wonder about that spot the most. The Flatland obviously is not going to bend as easily.
I wasn't too concerned about weight, but it is a bit lighter than the Flatland.... 1.83 lbs to 3.50 lbs. That weight is all down low so I doubt its noticeable. One other thing I noticed... the drain plug hole is quite a bit smaller on the Moose.
I will probably stick with the Flatland Racing on my R and put the Moose on my X since its black. Some pics of it on the bike in a few minutes...
Sorry this is a double post:
Before I give in and take it to a dealer, figured I would try to tap everyones wisdom here. Its an '09 with Power commander V, full FMF exhaust, opened up airbox, DRD speedo healer, Edge tailight, Zeta integrated handguards,and AIS has been removed. I did have to replace the rear brake switch relay recently. Bottom line is the bike has lots of aftermarket wiring.
The symptoms are:
-Sometimes the starter just buzzes and won't turnover (just like a dead battery). if I just flip the key off and then on again, it starts as usual. I hear the fuel pump priming each time. Battery voltage checked at 12.7, right on the border of needing to be charged according to the shop manual.
-Once the bike is warmed up, it acts like its not getting enough fuel at mid/ hi rpms and sputters/coughs/surges/cuts out, but it idles and starts just fine. it runs pretty well until it warms up all the way. It happened twice in a row and I had to limp home both times. With EFI, I am thinking a bad electrical connection could cause this. My most recent fill-ups were at busy suburban gas stations where I fill up all my other vehicles, so I don't think its bad fuel. I have ridden the bike fairly long distances recently and had no issues.
-it randomly shut off idling in the parking lot last night, and the instrument panel went blank, but restarted no problem.
-seems to be running richer than usual, but maybe I am just paying more attention to how the exhaust smells.
I don't think its the fuel pump because it was only a few '08s that had that problem, and a major symptom of that is it won't hot start. Mine has no problem starting hot or cold (unless it does the dead battery buzz thing) and I hear the pump priming each time I turn the key.
Thanks in advance for any help.
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Seems like a trend, but something just doesn't seem right about a plastic skid plate. I feel much better knowing there's metal between me and the rocks, vs. some engineered piece plastic. Is it a weight thing? It certainly isn't price.
The weight isn't really going to be noticeable (less than 2 lb difference). Some people complain about vibration/noise from the aluminum skid plates. I haven't had that same problem... I put some rubber washers on, and a few pads where it contacts the frame, and I don't get any noticeable noise or vibration from the Flatland on my R or the Zeta on my X.
I think it may have something to do with your power commander settings or the programmer itself. Haven't read of any problems with them but with the FMF programmer I experienced the sudden loss of power when cruising at times ( ihad read about this). changed one setting to what dobecks recommend and haven't had a hiccup since. Also check your main "plug in" areas like your battery connection, ALL of your Grounds, fuel pump wiring "clicked" in all the way and check the spark plug. I doubt it would be a serious electrical bug or you would be blowing fuses.
Change the battery. If its only pushing 12.7V its dying. While you're at it, check the stator to make sure its ok as well.
You mentioned that you had removed the AIS system. Check to make sure the vacuum caps haven't dry rotted and are leaking un-metered air into the system.
I'm not sure what your PCV settings are, and I know it would be too much to put into a post, but try uninstalling it. In other words, plug the stock harness back into the fuel injector plug. If that kills most of your ridability issues, its something in the map. The bike will run just fine without the programmer, I ran mine with a full FMF exhaust and opened up airbox sans programmer for thousands of miles.
Funny you mention the AIS cap - I just noticed the cap on the airbox side was looking very cracked. I'm running map #6 (Leo, no air lid, no spark arrestor). I currently have a megabomb/Q4 combo in with the spark arrestor insert in, so it should be a little on the rich side. It ran great with the spark arrestor out, but was much too loud for my taste.
Thanks for the suggestions so far - I will dive into it when I get home.
Don't forget the cap on the vacuum port on the throttle body either. Check it when you're digging in to unplug the programmer.
Thanks for this post. I just sold off my Yamaha 650 V-Twin custom star and am left with two Q-link 200 dual purpose bikes (yes I know...). I wanted to replace all of them with a single bike that would do pretty much anything. I have been looking at the Yamaha 250s as they are the right size and have a good rep...and get 70+mpg.
This write up was thoughtfully done and very helpful.
It looks great and thick enough to take a good hit, I would hope. Can't wait for mine to show up. Have you fired up the bike with it on? Looking forward to input on noise.
This has been going on a while, I ran into the issue back in September. I had to return the tank and they found that the whole batch they'd just had were having issues.
With all the skidplate discussion I thought I'd mention I have a Ricochet for sale in FM>parts if anyone is looking for one.