Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. Joe Watson

    Joe Watson Long timer

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    hahahah do we have the EXACT same vision for our bikes or what????

    That is what I was planning on doing, just visiting their workshop and trying some out to see what would fit best.......but it would be a BIG ride for me, coming from the Sunny Coast in Queensland......

    I was going to see if anyone more local had either of these tanks and wouldn't mind taking it off for me to trail fit.

    I know that the bike, especially the rear plastic, will need some modifications and also making up a low slung exhaust and extra subframe section, but I LOVE a challenge!!
  2. Gany

    Gany Been here awhile

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    Yeah I dont think I can be bothered with the hassle of modifying the exhaust so Im hoping one of the others will fit over the top. That would have the advantage too of being able to run some sort of soft luggage without it touching the exhaust as well.

    Be good to see what you come up with for yours!
  3. Yam2Yam2

    Yam2Yam2 Adventurer

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    Just wanted to post quick feedback on my latest mod. I'm riding a stock-tired, stock-geared WRr on the street, and my hands go completely numb after about an hour. Today I did my first oil change, and then tipped the bike on her side, took off the throttle grip, and filled the bar up with 7 1/2 lead shot. I sealed the throttle end with hot-melt glue, to keep the shot from locking up the throttle. This has worked *fantastic*, greatly reducing vibs. It had a side effect of making my bike feel faster, cause the vibs don't make me want to slow down.
  4. Yam2Yam2

    Yam2Yam2 Adventurer

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  5. Yam2Yam2

    Yam2Yam2 Adventurer

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    Recorded how my exhaust sounds, wanted to know if it was obnoxious to others. It's actually not much louder than the tire noise! I did passes at minimal throttle, all the way up to full throttle launch and peak HP rpm shifts.

    I disconnected the EXUP cables, drilled the airbox top, punched a handful of 1/4" holes in the midpipe baffle, and drilled 8 1/8" holes around the tailpipe.

    I ride w/o earplugs, and wind noise is louder than exhaust, but there's a nice, deep tone.

    http://www.youtube.com/embed/QJJlXH_Y7UY
  6. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

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    I lowered the WRR per this info

    Rear is probably 1 mm from having the stud flush to the bottom of the clevis. I can feel the stud, but it isn't quite flush.

    Re: the front - the tutorial says "push the fork leg up in the triple clamp to desired height".

    Not fiding any clear direction on how much, I raised the forks so they are 1/2" from the clamps to the top of tube (not top of cap).

    Took a test ride, trying to decide, is it better or worse, OK, or not OK. Feels fine, seat height is def. a lot better. Kickstand angle is still fine.

    One concern, maybe I am just paranoid, while it rides, and steers fine, if I push on the bars while moving, it is very responsive. Not sure how it was before, I guess I didn't pay enough attention before I did the lowering.

    ***********EDIT***********

    Just back from a longer ride, including a little highway. Everything seems fine.

    Feedback on how much others have raised the forks would be appreciated though.

    Thank you.

    Jon

    Is 1/2" about right? Or did I go too far?
  7. TwilightZone

    TwilightZone Long timer

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    >"Feedback on how much others have raised the forks would be appreciated though."

    About 5/8 inch on mine. Makes handling a little quicker. IMHO: Fine.
  8. DougZ73

    DougZ73 Fading off.........

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    Raising forks, on any motorcycle, makes for quicker "turn in"...and more responsive/twitchier. It changes the geometry is such way, that the bike wants to turn more.

    Conversely, what it is supposed to do is make it less stable at high speed/ highways. With street bikes, there is a fine balance in doing this, because if you make it un stable enough, it will want to tank slap..never fun.

    Because of the bike's geometry, with the WRR/X, not sure how much it matters. My personal requirements is it turns how I want offroad, and is stable enough on road that I can do high speed, and take hands off bars, and it stays going straight.
  9. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

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    Thanks Doug. I wasn't trying to change the handling characteristics, but simply to return it to "neutral" handling after lowering the rear. The ratio of lowering front and rear is apparently not 1:1, and there doesn't seem to be any definitive way to know the magic number.

    I guess if it seems OK, it probably is. 1/2" doesn't seem out of line with what other folks report doing.
  10. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

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    Has anyone used the Wolfman Rolie Bag (size small) as a tail-bag on a GYTR rear rack?

    I'd love to see photos, get feedback.

    [​IMG]
  11. thornstein

    thornstein Adventurer wannabe

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    Mine holds the tire kit. Tube, wrenches, baby powder, compressor. The stretch straps in the photo don't do anything to hold the bag down. I just have them there because it's a good place to store them.

    [​IMG]
  12. sturgeon

    sturgeon Been here awhile

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    I've got mine at 15 mm. Plus a Yamalink and some additional lowering of the shock in rear, although not all the way. Works fine for me; I was trying for pretty much the same handling as the stock settings. I seem to recall the instructions for the Yamalink saying that 18 mm was the max. This TT post implies it's also the norm.

    http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/573652-yamalink-video/page__p__5524376#entry5524376
  13. ADVCoop

    ADVCoop Been here awhile

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    I did the factory lowering to about the max and have my forks raised 19mm. I have noticed no difference in handling, good or bad. I just know I can reach the ground a little better with these changes coupled with a Seat Concepts low seat :D .
  14. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

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    I read that too, 18 mm for the YamaLink.

    I only used the factory shock mount method, no link. I read that the shock mount lowering is good for up to 1", so I figure mine is somewhere around 7/8" in the back, so I did ~2/3 that drop for the front.
  15. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

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    Thanks Coop. Did you notice the steering being quicker?
  16. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

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    Thanks for the photo.

    That's a PMB rack under there?

    Looks like you have lots of room to spare in the Rolie; is that the small size?

    I would love to have the medium, but the GYTR rack is so small. I think I'll have to ride to the store and see how they fit (assuming both are in stock).
  17. alansz400

    alansz400 Long timer

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    Heres what ended my fun day of riding today. I did make it about 100 miles home without the road side repair tree branch plug falling out. There doesnt seem to be any engine damage. Can someone PM me a link to a online repair manual? Looks like I got some work to do.

    [​IMG]
  18. BlueLghtning

    BlueLghtning Riding is my passion

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    So did the stock site glass just pop out, or did you hit it on something and break it? I've heard/seen this before on the BMW 1100's, but first time I've heard of this on the WR250R?
  19. alansz400

    alansz400 Long timer

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    I dont think I hit anything but I guess I could have. My rear brake was not working like it should and when I got off the bike to clean the grass off the brake pedal I saw the window was misssing.
  20. oxygenrace

    oxygenrace Motorcyclist

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    I just got a new Garmin Montana 650 with the AMPS Rugged Mount/cradle with power. I want to wire the cradle to the bike so it gets power when the bike is running but no power when it is off (i.e. not directly to the battery). Any one done something like this, maybe for heated grips or something. Photos of the wire you spliced into would be great.