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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
thanks for the reply..i will pass on them and use the $$ towards a spare set of seals.
Did you plug the vent hole? I imagine you would get water inside the tube if you didn't. Have you tested it in mud and water conditions - partial or full immersion?
I thought you sold your WRR?
The left hand fork slider will rub the plastic guard on all WRR's if you don't heat them up and bend them out of the way. When you ty-rap a seal saver to the top of the slider it's even more prone to rubbing.
I have ridden with riders using seal savers when it's raining and muddy, and they don't skim the muddy water off the fork tube, and to make things worse they trap the muddy water under the seal saver which turns them into sand paper. After I saw that I made the decision they weren't for me.
Help with vacuum pump needed. I have a new (1 mo.) Safari tank. I was doing its first test to see what range I could expect out of it, and it ran out of fuel at 155miles with fuel still left in the wings. There is fuel in the two lines coming from the wing pickups but it is not going to the fuel pump. As soon a I put fresh gas in above the bottom of the fuel pump the bike began running again. Does this mean the vacuum pump is not working? All I can remember is that there appeared to be some fuel spraying near the rear of the fuel pump in the area of the vacuum pump when first installed last month. I am not seeing any now. Fuel appears to feed; thru the vacuum-fuel pump feeder hose; only when sufficient fuel in tank to cover bottom of fuel pump. :huh
And that is the reason I never opted for a cheap vacuum pump to feed the expensive injected pump. I was willing to carry my extra gallon in a rotopax.
Sorry I can not help you but chances are your vacuum line has fallen off or been pinched someplace. Also remember that a motor creates its highest vacuum at idle so under wide open throttle where you need the most gas the pump is being starved of its vacuum to keep it running. I know they work for others but not going on my bike.
I own a 2008 WR250X and a recently purchased 2011 KTM530EXC. I initially purchased the WRX for a commuter bike and 3 years later it still does that duty well. I took the WRX on a longish adventure ride after fitting some dirt worthy 17" tires and it did pretty well overall. It did great offroad when speeds were a bit lower but after riding highway for a few hours chasing GS1200's I knew I wanted something with more power. That is my only complaint though. The bike is reliable, comfortable, and fast enough 90% of the time.
I purchased a new 530 EXC and built it into this;
I have been very happy with it so far. It lopes along on the highway at a fairly low rpm, has minimal vibes (comparable to the WRX) and is just as comfortable after an updated seat. For long highway jaunts I prefer this over the WRX. And once offroad it is no contest.
But.......I don't commute on it so I don't rack up a lot of kms. It is new still so I haven't had to do more than oil changes and valve checks but I am amazed at how easy it is to work on though. Valve checks are probably 30 minutes without having to adjust. The only thing left to do is an oil cooler so I can extend oil changes. I would almost rather work on this more often than have to work on the WRX just for that simplicity.
Although that being said there is something comforting about the little blue bike and if I had to choose one bike to do it all it would be a WR450R! Oh, sorry make that a WR250R. I would build it up just like the KTM. Big tank, Lynx fairing, and some wolfman racks. And I would be more relaxed and happy, but I would still long for the ability to loft my front wheel in the air from time to time.
I think if your riding is more often offroad and short highway or city trips I would stick with the KTM's but if you are putting on a lot of miles the Yamaha would simplify things. Or you can wait and let us all know how the new 350 freeride is!
I would recommend getting rid of the WR250F and looking around for a good used WR250R and then you can compare the bikes yourself and see what fits best.
Tried adding Engine Ice and some some cheap bling, to keep an eye on it. Hopefully that will keep the little red light from coming on. Anybody else experience the Rad Guard causing engine to run hot?
nope. do you still have the black plastic "deflector" right behind the fan? have you richened it up at all?
Ther 350 Freeride is a hybrid TRIALS (not trails) bike. I has a 1.5 gallon tank, ultra light-weight everything (alloy and plastic), minimal stator / alternator and is designed for weekend exploring in the woods at a moderate pace (professional marketing videos excepted). To me it has NO buisness as a long distance adventure bike platfom. Modifying a 350 / 500 EXC, however, is another story.
I have the rad guard on and took the bike to Florida at Xmas at that time I did not have a fan working. Engine ice and keeping the bike moving kept enough air to keep the light off.
I have 2 questions if anyone can assist :-
1/ Does anyone know if they still manufacture Sweet Cheeks seat covers? It appears there website no longer operates.
Perhaps I should get the Airhawk seat cover?
2/ Can I run 14/43 sprocket setup successfully? I've the Athena BB kit on road tyres and the WR seems to over-rev at
highway speeds ( in Oz that's 100-110 kph or 60-65 mph). I'm planning a 700 klm highway trip soon, rider and gear
will weigh in at approx' 100 kg (220 lbs) so I guess it's not too heavy.
Thank you in advance once again, John.
Edit. Oops, currently running stock 13/43 sprockets.
Well you better pack, our Mattawa to Sudbury off-road ride is leaving in early September.
Most folks need to go the other way, but maybe the Athena kit adds enough ass to make it practical to gear up instead of down.
My WR-R came with 13/43 stock and it needed gearing down to pull hills in sixth and I'm around 200 pounds with gear. I first went down to a 12T on the countershaft, then the chain ate my swingarm guard. Now I'm running a 13/47 combo with an oversized trials tire (taller profile) and it seems about right. YRMV.
One thing is switching out CS sprockets would be relatively inexpensive to try. Be aware that the CS sprocket on this bike will be a real bitch to remove because they use some kind of super Locktite at the factory. Had to use a pneumatic impact wrench on mine the first time (make sure bike is in neutral if you do this!). But after the first time it's a five minute job to change out CS sprockets - just remove nut, replace sprocket, reinstall nut, adjust chain.
I have the IMS 4.75-gallon tank (it actually held 4.82 gallons) and ran it out of gas on purpose as a test right after installing - 237 miles riding hard - and there was still around 1/2 gallon in the wing bottoms.
I've since learned that the vacuum pump/fuel pump on these tanks needs a modification to allow it to use that last bit of gas in the wings. It seems the fuel pumped up from the lower wings by the vacuum pump exits from a hose spewing upward at the top of the stock fuel pump and once the level gets below a point where it can puddle around the stock pump it's starved for gas. The solution some have done is to place a dome-shaped piece of aluminum or plastic above the outlet hose from the vacuum pump to deflect the spewing fuel downward where it needs to go.
Maybe I'll make one of these deflectors next time I need to remove the tank. But hey, after having to search for gas beginning at 70 miles with the stock tank and now not having to worry about it until over 200 miles, it hasn't really been a problem. I haven't been too concerned about that last half gallon (good for maybe another 25 miles?) in the wings.
And carrying extra fuel in a Rotopax or similar (I had a look-alike 1.5 gallon can in another brand) always seemed silly to me compared to a larger tank because where ever you put the extra gas can is not going to be as efficient or balanced as just having a larger tank. The times I carried it on trips - mine was mounted to the tail rack - it always seemed in the way and filling it or using it to fill the stock tank was always a hassle because I had other stuff strapped atop the gas can. Besides, even if I carried an extra two gallons in Rotopax strapped to the bike somewhere I'd still have less useable fuel than with my tank, even taking into account the bit that cannot be used at present.
I actually like the stock gearing. I am 210lbs. If my bike won't pull a hill in 6th, there's this thing called a gear shift and I just click it down once or twice and it's good to go .
I think Sewerat was writing in response to my inquiry just above him. In the Safari tank the scavenged fuel from the wings is brought up by the vacuum pump and thru a second line is dumped directly to the primary fuel pump pickup.(theoretically). My vacuum pump doesn't seem to bring the fuel down (thru the secondary line) to the fuel pump sump area even though there appears to be fuel in the wing pickup lines. The reason I went with the larger tank was so I could get a 200 mile range without resorting to the extra weight of the rotopax/koplin method and expense, and just carry a rolled up 4L. fuel bladder for those few times when I may need it up in Canada or Alaska (need a 250 mile range)
1) I have no idea
2) Stock will work, but you'll be using 5th gear a lot and winding it up even further than you would if you'd gear it down to 13/46 or 13/47 and keep it in 6th.
I'm planning to order a new rear tire this Fall, as well as change the gearing.
Current rear = OEM Trailwing
Current gearing = 12 / 43
I like this gearing pretty well (it was done by original owner), but the small front sprocket makes me nervous, as it brings the chain closer to the swingarm. I have the OEM front sprocket, with virtually no mileage on it.
If 12 / 43 = 13 / 46, I am thinking 13 / 47 would be perfect, with the current rear tire.
I am likely to go to a T-63 120/80-18, which I have read is a fairly true-to-size tire. Some other tires I am considering though are apparently much larger diameter (MT-43 for example).
How much does the difference in rear tire affect the gearing? To compensate for a larger tire, should I go up 1 tooth?
As sprockets and chains outlast rear tires, I'd hate to achieve gearing I really like only to have it change with each tire-swap.
Am I over-thinking this?