Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. GlennR

    GlennR Playin' in the Fire

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    Bill,:thumb

    That's smart to do. I see folks trying to get big money for bikes because of all the extra that they have "invested" in farkles. They just don't rrealize that most buyers will not pay extra for the farkles, and some buyers consider a non stock bike worth less than a stock one.

    A stock bike "looks newer" or "less used" in many buyers minds.
  2. Mr. Fisherman

    Mr. Fisherman PROUD 2B Riff Raff!

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    Here is it Crawdaddy, I hope it helps.


    oh, and this doesn't look like much fun....

    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Eh2NXTbMkEA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

    :eek1:cry
  3. Jolly705

    Jolly705 Long timer

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    Thanks, any specific years for the pegs?

  4. Jolly705

    Jolly705 Long timer

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    Here is a pic and the mods :evil

    Go Race Suspension front and rear
    Renthal Bars
    Flatland radiator Guard
    Flatland Skid Plate
    EE aluminum hand guards
    FMF pipe with Power Commander V

    [​IMG]
  5. fred flintstone

    fred flintstone Been here awhile

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    The other thing that drives me crazy is people who add the full new price of the farkles to the FMV of the stock bike, but then don't have the stock parts. So I always want to say, OK now deduct extra wear and tear on stock bike price, wear and tear on farkles, and cost for near new stock parts that would be there in a box if they hadn't already been sold/lost/destroyed. Oh yeah then the adjustment factor for maybe a screwed up install and broke something.
  6. Shawnee Bill

    Shawnee Bill Long timer

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    Yeah, I thought about this stuff when I decided to sell, figured it would benefit both the buyer and me to sell it bone stock, I can sell it cheaper, sell the takeoffs for less and still come out ok.
    Plus whoever buys the bike isn't stuck with my idea of how it should be, especially the seat, tank and racks. Those can be very much personal preferences.

    I decided I needed a better woods bike more than I needed the hiway capability of the WRR so today I pick up a 2011 Husaberg FE390.

    I'm really tempted to keep the WRR but my garage is already full. Somebody is going to get a great deal on the WRR. And there's the money thing. :cry


    .
  7. ArmyJoe

    ArmyJoe Long timer

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    I said the same thing to my wife. She bought a Buell Blast, a former Rider's Edge trainer, as her first bike. After spending some time on http://badweatherbikers.com, she modified the heck out of it. I kept telling her that the next owner may not want all that stuff and she may have a hard time selling it. She did her own thing in the end (and did a great job), but she kept all the stock parts in a box.

    No pics of wife, but here's her bike (before and after):

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  8. Sock Monkey

    Sock Monkey 99% bullshitter...the other 1% is just lies

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    You nailed it Bob. :thumb

    Of course, if someone wanted to spend the $$, they could purchase a PC-V w/ Autotune and weld a bung for the O2 sensor into the header, and then let the PC-V operate in closed loop mode. The nice thing about going that route is you don't need access to a dyno to get the right A/F value across the rev range, because the PC-V w/ AT will do it for you. You also don't need to twiddle a bunch of map entries, but that option is there if you're so inclined. I could only see going that route though if you wanted to squeeze every bit of performance out of the motor, or if you did the big bore mod. Otherwise, IMO you can get really good results with an EJK, etc., just with their as-shipped-from-the-factory settings.

    -SM
  9. ramz

    ramz Professional Trail Rider

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    Someone did:

    http://rickramsey.net/WR250Rtuning.htm
    :ricky
  10. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Harvey Mushman

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    It's been awhile since you updated; it's not real clear to me (an admitted dunderhead) whether all that time and money was worthwhile to you. Did it give you a worthy increase in power over the FMF PP?
  11. ramz

    ramz Professional Trail Rider

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    The time and money were well spent. My WRR runs better than I ever hoped. Yes, better than with the FMF PP.

    And much better than my new 2013 CRF250L. Looks like I'll be getting a PCV/AT for it when they become available. And probably an FMF muffler and MB header.



    About the lack of updates - the PCV/AT does it's thing and there's really nothing to report. All systems GO.
  12. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Harvey Mushman

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    Thanks!
  13. bhd1223

    bhd1223 Been here awhile

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    Looking through your site made it sound like you could hook up the PCV and AT, set the A/F, and just let it run. Did you do all the extra work for the individual gear maps and so you had maps saved?
  14. Reposado1800

    Reposado1800 Juicy J fan!

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    How much is the full go race package running now? I am hoping to send my stuff off in 2 months and it looks like Go Race has the WRR dialed in to perfection.
  15. ramz

    ramz Professional Trail Rider

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    That's exactly what you can do.

    I wanted to work through all the options, save maps, monitor performance, etc. It's hard to take the easy way when you've been jetting carbs for 40 years. I finally gave in and just let the PCV/AT run and adjust as necessary... :lol3
  16. oxygenrace

    oxygenrace Motorcyclist

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    where do i find the flea market?
  17. Nice_Rumble

    Nice_Rumble Long timer

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  18. Shawnee Bill

    Shawnee Bill Long timer

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    Where Nice_Rumble said but everything has been spoken for so nothing ever made it to the flea market.
    Except the WRR itself, as soon as I get it cleaned up I may list it there.



    .
  19. clintnz

    clintnz Trans-Global Chook Chaser

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    So we finally got around to removing all the emissions crap off Rosie's WRR...

    [​IMG]

    It's heaps lighter now but seems a bit down on power :lol3

    Actually, the engine was out for a full teardown to replace this:

    [​IMG]

    2008 with 30 something thousand km on the bike. The gearbox countershaft output bearing had suddenly spat all it's balls out resulting in lots of nasty noises & loss of drive. Luckily there was no other damage. Still a big job to pull the engine down almost completely to get at the damn thing, would be horrifically expensive if you had to have a shop do it. All the rest of the motor insides looked pretty good, valve clearances ok, ring gaps well in spec, clutch good etc etc.

    A look around the internets doesn't bring up any signs this is a common problem, my guess is that it had been literally 'ridden hard & put away wet' by the PO & corrosion from a drop of water in the bearing was the root cause. Rolling element forensics experts feel free to comment :norton
    [​IMG]

    Cheers
    Clint
  20. Jolly705

    Jolly705 Long timer

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    I bought it set up but the previous owner said she spent $1000 on the suspension.