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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
I run 13/47 with 110 links and have ordered a couple extra masterlinks to keep in my tool kit.
You can safely increase the height by 1 1/2" without getting into trouble. Any more than that, and you'll be looking for longer clutch & throttle cables and brake hose.
I try to take notes when I see important information discussed here, so that I don't have to search 2000+ pages. Sometimes I make mistakes, however.
I believe that the stock chain is 110 links for stock 13/43 gearing on the WRR. Is this accurate?
I have notes from two different inmates regarding chain length for 13/47 gearing. One says 110 and one says 112 links. So, is the 13/47 sprocket set the transition point from 110 to 112, with some adjustability left for stretching with wear?
All my notes for 13/48 or larger say 112 links, until I get to 14/52 where I have a blank. 14/50 apparently works with 112 links. 14/52 (3.71:1) is really close to 13/48 (3.69:1), the latter of which uses 112 links. But 4 more teeth on the primary sprocket seems like a big step up. Will 112 links cover it?
13/52 (4.00:1) and 13/54 (4.15:1) are the shortest gearing ratios I have seen discussed on this thread. I can't see ever need them myself, but someone has tried and found them useful. Does 13/54 required a chain longer than 112 links?
This may be a good place to add a recommendation to use http://www.gearingcommander.com/
Extremely useful when figuring out this kind of stuff. Has accurate data on WRR/X stock gearing/chain length/tires to use as a base. The big takeaway for me is that talking about gearing is pointless without including tire diameter (or circumference). It will also allow you to calculate what chain length is required for a given sprocket combo.
Very cool. Thanks.
I have searched around, but know that with stock(ish) diameter tires the preferred combo seems to be 13/45 with the 17" x rims, and 13/47 with the 18/21" ers. I have an x w stock gearing, but it just seems geared "wrong" 6th is kinda useless, so it will be a 13/45 for the 17" wheels.
1. I will be running both sets of wheels, and have heard of using offset axle spacers that will take up the chain slack to minimize the use of the adjusters when using 2 wheel sets w/ 2 gearing options. (they basically flip over) Where are these available from, and what have people experiences w/ them been. Sorry for sounding like a newb, which i am, but all my previous bikes have had clamshells.
2.110 or 112 links? Any final words before I order the wheels spacers and new gears?
Ran 13/45 (17") and 13/47 (18') with a 112. Could have run a 110 with stock tires. MT43 gets close to the guard with a new 110. Stock is 108.
Thanks for the info, just got myself a little toy today. And yes is was raining today in Holland Luggage rack is is the first thing that's coming off and then the rear needs a cosmetic clean up.
Ironic. The Wolfman rack is the first thing going on mine.
I have a XT660z Tenere for long distance travel and the WR is just for fun
Sold my Wolfman rack here in just a few hours.
I thought the same thing!
Each to his own!
I've been thinking about buying a set of Wolfman racks for my WR. Have them on my DR and they're great. Too bad you're not on this side of the pond.
Staintune sent me this, I'm wondering how it compares to the FMF setup? If all I have to do is whack on the staintune then lift up the airbox flap to get the same gains as FMF pipe + header + fuel map then going with the staintune feels like a no brainer to me?
Back in Post #30605 I posted a couple of photos of my Australasian Safari-prepped WRR. Well the rally has been run and won, 3,300km over eight days - the little WRR and I ended up finishing 22nd overall from 37 starters, and won the 250cc class. In all that racing, the only "regular" maintenance needed was one oil and filter change on Day 4, a new chain slider on Day 6 and replacement of the rear mousse tube (ran the same front and rear tyres for the whole event, although the rear could have done with replacement by Day 5). She ran like a dream, lacked power in the deep sand, and maxed out at 115kph (with 13:49 gearing) on the transport stages, but for most of the rally was able to keep pace with the faster mid-sized machines. Fuel consumption (given it was mostly sand-based terrain) was pretty high, around 6 litres per 100km at race pace, so some of the longer (260km) stages needed the fuel I kept in a 4-litre Nomad rear tank mounted on the rear guard in addition to the 14-litre Safari tank I ran.
how many in the 250 class? just curious as you never hear about them much or in the Dakar for that matter
Why is the horizontal scale in mph?
I took my WR250R to Broome once and it was terrible in the sand, it took so much physical strength to get it to do anything and I'd be worn out in 20-30 minutes of it and I'm at the gym 4-5 nights a week. This was its real downfall imo, thankfully there's no sand where I live now, for here it's the best bike ever imo!