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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
Hey, it's like an awesomer version of this picture of mine:
Just an fyi - if you plug the vent line the bike won't run very long
You can run that one up anywhere high. Preferably, somewhere that won't get any water or dirt in it.
The nice thing about it is that it should have a rollover valve on the tank side so if your bike takes a dirt nap, you won't get gas dumping out the vent. My XT350 is a CA model and I have tested that rollover valve many times. works great.
It's on there to prevent filling the canister up with gas. I prefer the rollover valve to a vented cap. I've never enjoyed gas on my leg or crotch, but to each his own.
.......... I don't think leaving that vent "up high" would be prudent. Mine drips fuel most any time I fill the tank good and full. I think what the previous post meant was if he plugs the line it will pull a vacuum in the tank as the level goes down causing the bike to stall.
Hi. Great thread!
I am going to be in the market to buying a dirt bike strictly dirt and am seeing the higher popularity between them Suzuki dr350 and your Yamaha wr250 can anyone point to me to the black and white comparison of the two? (incl price points). Thanks
If you want strictly a dirt bike, don't buy the WR250R. It is a dual sport. The DR350 off road model is a great bike even though it is a little on the old side. They were modified into motocross bikes BEFORE the advent of factory 4stroke motocross bikes.
"... It is a dual sport. ...."
Not the WR250F. Me thinks Luke asked the right question in the wrong place.
By high up, I mean away from dust and water. Depending on where they put the bung in the tank, you may not be able to fill it to the brim. It'll leak with the canister on or off, the only difference is that with the canister on, the gas evaporates inside the canister and the vapor gets sucked into the throttle body.
You don't want to run it down low by the shock like carb vents are but also not to somewhere that gas will leak onto something hot, or your leg if you have a very full tank and the gas gets hot and needs a place to expand.
Yes, if you plug the line, your tank will have a vacuum and cause problems.
Would it work to put one of those one way valve tubes on the vent tube of the tank. I realize that it would be down low and have gas on it some of the time but it should be able to let air in and keep the gas from dripping out.
I bought a KLR650 as my first bike back in 2008 and have put 28,000 miles on it since. When riding to ride the KLR (not commute, etc.), I ride minimal pavement but also minimal single-track super gnar, of course. I picked up a plated WR450f about 2 years ago and have learned to also love true dirt bike riding.
In all this, I've realized I actually prefer higher speed dual sport riding (jeep trails and flowing dirt bike/ATV trails) over relatively slower speed technical trail riding. I don't have issues with the technical aspects of trail riding but I think the distance and speed aspects are what make the difference for me. Don't get me wrong, I still hit some ATV trails on my KLR and certainly spend at least 75% of my WR riding time on true OHV trails as well. My preferences simply lie in dual sporting, not riding a plated dirt bike. But of course, I do enjoy a light, nimble-handling steed.
So if I wanted a bulletproof ultra-low maintenance dual sport that was a compromise between my KLR650 and my WR450, would looking towards the WR250R suit my riding preferences above? I'm mainly looking to use a WR250R as a dual sport and trail riding rig, relegating the KLR650 to commuting and ADV-touring duty, and then selling my WR450. Only the bad me needs that 450 performance
well IMHO the DR350e is very old tech type of bike
chugs well not a very revy engine
only just enough electrical power to run things
carrys ADV gear well
handling it IMO.....just disgusting frame flex suspension steering seating position etc etc is just all wrong
bottom line its a good bike for hard slow riding.
WR250r the ONLY thing it doesn't do better is have the same amount of bottom end power IMHO everything else is better
I went with them as we'll. was a bit dubious at first when you compare the price of brand folding levers but they're pretty nicely made actually. I ground of some material of the brake bit to get some more free play.
Can someone help here...
I bought my WR 6months ago or so and it came with a yamalink installed. The more I ride the more I realize I want the bike back to where it was at stock height. I understand how to re-install the stock link, but how much do I raise the jam nut etc to achieve the stock height from factory? Also, it appears the forks have been raised in the clamps on the front. How much do I move the front forks to get the factory setting...or do I just move them as far I can before I hit the caps?
Thanks in advance!
You talked about the yamalink and the factory adjustment in the same sentence, but get that you know the difference.
If I remember the factory adjustment is only about a half an inch or less (at the shock). That measurement is amplified by the ratio of the linkage so it raises or lowers the bike by much more than a half an inch. Once you remove the Yamalink and install the standard link see if you like the seat height. If you want it taller........... start adjusting the shock out longer until you like it.......... just leave plenty of threads in the yoke,
As far as the forks go I remember the "caps" just sticking up above the top clamp, and that was all.
If you want to sell your yamalink, send me a PM.
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/diau7zhUyjA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
That item is used only if the Q4 muffler is to be connected to the stock header pipe.
Very cool video! Love the music! Kudos on just tractoring by the other riders!
Look through here: http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?53932-Lowered-WR250R
This might help you get it back to the OEM settings.
Thanks for the info.. Yea I'll probably take your advice and just leave my shock as is and just raise as needed once the link is changed. I'll probably just move the clamps as high as they go on the forks.
Thanks again and I'll let you know if I decide to let go of the link