Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. MeefZah

    MeefZah Curmudgeonly

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    Yes.

    I took an old handlebar grip, cut a rectangular piece the size of the LP light housing, punched holes in it where the bolts would pass through, and used it as a spacer between the light housing and the back of the fender. It solidified the housing quite a bit and I like to think the rubber adds dampening to keep the vibes from breaking the bulb filament.
  2. 10Cup

    10Cup Long timer

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    Yeah that's how it's designed, you can add washers behind the cap nuts to help squeeze the rubber and tighten it some.

    I also found my tail light lens loose and no way to tighten it. Ended up putting some thin (IE cut with scissors) foam between it and the plastic. Has worked well now for many many miles.
  3. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

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    I noticed the same thing, but didn't do anything about it ,since tightening does not resolve.

    Do we think this is an issue that needs to be addressed, or an intentional design "feature"?
  4. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Harvey Mushman

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    :y0!


    NO! :lol3:lol3:lol3

    I still can't get over trying to retrofit a manual cam chain tensioner in this bike.
  5. DougZ73

    DougZ73 Fading off.........

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    The plate light holder is made that way. IIRC, its a filament bulb( as opposed to an LED), and if hard mounted, is more likely to break...especially on a tail that is potentially bouncing around all the time, harshly.

    The filament bulb on my DRZ tailight(aftermarket) would break couple times a season.
  6. skierd

    skierd Wannabe Far-Rider

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Fairbanks, AK
    :vardy Snow has started to fall in and around Fairbanks, a nice sheet of ice has formed on the roads, and for the first time since I've started riding I've had to put my bike up for the winter. Or at least until I can get studded knobbies...

    She's been sitting since late september, with the temps getting into the negative teens overnight the last couple weeks, thoroughly cold soaked. Went out to change the oil for winter and run some stabil through her, and she started right up like nothing. :D Dang I love this tough old girl...

    If anyone is interested in a set of stock X wheels, let me know if you're interested. I'm pretty well decided on swapping back to dirt wheels come spring, as well as getting a second bike.
  7. Joe Watson

    Joe Watson Long timer

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    Ok, so I got my starter/kill switch from K&S which is great! Saved a bunch not buying through Yamaha.
    [​IMG]


    BUT!!!!!! Now my bloody indicator switch wont push in to return. I have pulled it apart cleaned, lubed and everything, but I just can't get it to push and return. Any suggestions on how to fix it before I fork out for a new one of these?
  8. Joe Watson

    Joe Watson Long timer

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    Very sad to see it go, I have put countless hours into getting it to this stage and it has taken me to MANY incredible places!!

    It does not have dual radiators, just a guard to keep roost off all the bits behind there and it is no different than cleaning the radiator guard on the other side! The bash plate does have two tool boxes, one either side.

    Everything on the bike I built myself, all the info is in my build log here (page 8 has all the new stuff):

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=678192


    [​IMG]


  9. ba_

    ba_ Long timer

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    Does anyone know if the fork protectors have been changed over the years so that they do not rub the forks?
  10. jgino157

    jgino157 Yer' mom!!!

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    Same problem here :ear
  11. Gargoyle

    Gargoyle Trail Jester

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    Anyone know what is the HP of a stock WR250R is?
  12. thumpididump

    thumpididump MacGyver

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  13. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Navigate 2 Adventure

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    Just throw on a set of black WR250"X" fork protectors....they don't rub like the white "R" model.....slightly different
  14. BMW-K

    BMW-K F800GS FTW!

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  15. what broke now

    what broke now Petroleum Brother

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    Me too, thumb on the scale, probably in a friendly way, but still...
  16. KansasBob

    KansasBob Been here awhile

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    Apr 27, 2008
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    Mine don't rub.......................... It takes 10 min. per side to take them off, heat them up with a heat gun, and bend them out a little. Easy and FREE!!
  17. thumpididump

    thumpididump MacGyver

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    I'm sure it is... they probably got those numbers directly from Yamaha.

    I'm not really concerned with HP figures, preferring instead to rely on how well the engine responds to input, and how much fun I'm having. After all, it's just a 250... it's not like the performance numbers are meant to impress anyone.

    Here's some useful real world info if anyone's interested:

    http://www.wrrdualsport.com/tech-guide/dynotesting





    Sent using Tapatalk on my Samsung Galaxy S3
  18. ba_

    ba_ Long timer

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    Thanks. I'll try that this weekend. Mine don't look like they rub but I wasn't sure if I was looking at it the right way
  19. OldPete

    OldPete Be aware

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    Dyno Jet dynos are optimistic.
  20. Gargoyle

    Gargoyle Trail Jester

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    Thanks ... I owned a WR250R for 3 years so I know what the power felt like when riding. I just forgot what the HP rating was and am now looking at a 2013 Husaberg FE250 to run in enduros next year ... and their claim of 32 HP.