Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. ba_

    ba_ Long timer

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    Same videos explains how to change the oil as well! A few simple tools are all you need
  2. ramz

    ramz Professional Trail Rider

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  3. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

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    Some general info here:

    http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Videos
    http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/61-technical-articles-tips/
    http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/213-maintenance/

    Not WRR specific.
  4. AZ TOM

    AZ TOM Long timer

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    If your seals are not leaking & your happy with the way the front end feels when riding, don't mess with it:eek1
  5. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Navigate 2 Adventure

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    Tom, folks who live in climates that don't cater to year round riding need to grasp on to something to occupy their free time.....:lol3
  6. Nice_Rumble

    Nice_Rumble Long timer

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    Not a bad idea to change suspension fluid every couple of years. It will certainly enhance how the suspension works but also prolong it's life. Gets rid of that nasty moisture.
  7. leftystrat62

    leftystrat62 Adventurer

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    Wasn't planning on mucking with my seals while they're not leaking,just interested in knowing how to do the repair if that occurs( I do carry a strip of film neg in my trail repair kit)., and yes we in the Northern country do have to find things to do while we're cooped up during the snowy winters,that and the oil should be changed by now. Plan on riding the TAT solo next summer from R.I to OR -can't hurt to get everything properly lubed,and fluids changed:evil
  8. Crawdaddy

    Crawdaddy Navigate 2 Adventure

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    Nice! :thumb
  9. scottmac

    scottmac Long timer

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    I did a fork oil change about a month ago. Very simple to do, especially if you've got a fork oil siphon tool.

    [​IMG]
  10. what broke now

    what broke now Petroleum Brother

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    It's also easy to rig one up if you already have a mityvac tool, all you need to add is a length of brass tubing and a zip tie
  11. DefyInertia

    DefyInertia Saratogian

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    Am I an idiot or am I going to have to drill extra holes in my CA plate in order to mount it on my new DRC edge 2 fender elim kit???

    EDIT - drilled it[​IMG]
  12. andy mac

    andy mac Adventurer

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    A couple of years ago mine was also not working. From memory the white plastic indicator box inside the handlebar clamp was a loose fit so I used a 2mm ziptie tail as a packer. It worked and hasn't needed adjustment since :evil
  13. dogjaw

    dogjaw plays well alone

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    I have a wr250x, has a Kenda 270 mounted on the front by the previous owner; not a bad set up, but seems to develop speed wobbles above 70... Running 30# on the road; what is recommended with this tire? If I end up keeping the bike, I will probably end up swapping the Kendas for a Shinko, but would like to take it out this weekend for a back to back comparison with my DR.
  14. Joe Watson

    Joe Watson Long timer

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    Legendary!! I will pull it apart again and have a look. Thank you.

  15. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

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    30lbs is a lot. I'd go down to 20 and go for a ride. I run 18 in MT-21 front
  16. pfy50

    pfy50 Professional nOOb

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    dogjaw,

    I assume since your on a "X" your running mostly road (@ 70mph)? If so 4-6 Lbs under Max which is 33psi for a 270 (have the same tire) off road take it down to 18-20psi, but don't forget to air up when you return to hard surface. You may also need to check steering stem bearing for looseness and tighten up a little. Also if the Kenda is well worn but not so much to change out; recut the leading edge of the lugs(square them up) or take the tire off and reverse the tread pattern. Let us know if you alleviate your problem.:wink:
  17. Nice_Rumble

    Nice_Rumble Long timer

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    I took a coping saw and removed about 1/4" from the end of both internal spacers. That along with standard nuts was able to snug up the license plate light. Job done!

    [​IMG]

    I also noticed the LED tailight was getting loose in it's plastic housing as well. I placed washers on the ends of the bolts that secures the bracket to the sub-frame and that was enough to snug it up. Job done!

    [​IMG]
  18. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

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    I replied above based on what the R is spec'd for - 18 lbs. I lower mine to 12-14 for off-road.

    Personally, I would go by what Yamaha says, not the max for the tire. That said, the X calls for 29 front, so you're right, upper 20s would be a good place to start. Personally I'd release 2 or 3 pounds, ride and check for the wobble, and if still present, then release 2 or 3 more and check again.
  19. Pantah

    Pantah PJ Fan from Boston

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    Personally, I think you just don't have enough experience to lecture like that. If I need 2500 more miles out of a set of DOT knobby's on tar to get to my trailer, I run 40psi front/rear, and so does every other old salt... If I want no pinch flats to ride a loop that will have a few rock gardens, I run 32 both ends. Whatever I give up in performance doesn't warrant a pinch flat. If I was racing an enduro or MX, I'd run much lower pressures and have rimlocks. The WR doesn't have those things.

    32lbs even works well enough in sand washes miles long. Just need the right tire. Mine is a Michelin T63 or a Pirelli MT21. :D
  20. Mikef5000

    Mikef5000 Long timer

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    Personally, I think his lecture is just as helpful as yours.

    And even personally-er... I run around 20 psi front and rear on my R just about all the time. I've kicked it up to 30 and noticed no difference on pavement, but some difference (more deflection) off-road, and I've dropped it down to 15, but noticed no real difference from the 20.