Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. pfy50

    pfy50 Professional nOOb

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    dogjaw,

    I assume since your on a "X" your running mostly road (@ 70mph)? If so 4-6 Lbs under Max which is 33psi for a 270 (have the same tire) off road take it down to 18-20psi, but don't forget to air up when you return to hard surface. You may also need to check steering stem bearing for looseness and tighten up a little. Also if the Kenda is well worn but not so much to change out; recut the leading edge of the lugs(square them up) or take the tire off and reverse the tread pattern. Let us know if you alleviate your problem.:wink:
  2. Nice_Rumble

    Nice_Rumble Long timer

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    I took a coping saw and removed about 1/4" from the end of both internal spacers. That along with standard nuts was able to snug up the license plate light. Job done!

    [​IMG]

    I also noticed the LED tailight was getting loose in it's plastic housing as well. I placed washers on the ends of the bolts that secures the bracket to the sub-frame and that was enough to snug it up. Job done!

    [​IMG]
  3. jon_l

    jon_l Long timer

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    I replied above based on what the R is spec'd for - 18 lbs. I lower mine to 12-14 for off-road.

    Personally, I would go by what Yamaha says, not the max for the tire. That said, the X calls for 29 front, so you're right, upper 20s would be a good place to start. Personally I'd release 2 or 3 pounds, ride and check for the wobble, and if still present, then release 2 or 3 more and check again.
  4. Pantah

    Pantah Red Sox Nation

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    Personally, I think you just don't have enough experience to lecture like that. If I need 2500 more miles out of a set of DOT knobby's on tar to get to my trailer, I run 40psi front/rear, and so does every other old salt... If I want no pinch flats to ride a loop that will have a few rock gardens, I run 32 both ends. Whatever I give up in performance doesn't warrant a pinch flat. If I was racing an enduro or MX, I'd run much lower pressures and have rimlocks. The WR doesn't have those things.

    32lbs even works well enough in sand washes miles long. Just need the right tire. Mine is a Michelin T63 or a Pirelli MT21. :D
  5. Mikef5000

    Mikef5000 Long timer

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    Personally, I think his lecture is just as helpful as yours.

    And even personally-er... I run around 20 psi front and rear on my R just about all the time. I've kicked it up to 30 and noticed no difference on pavement, but some difference (more deflection) off-road, and I've dropped it down to 15, but noticed no real difference from the 20.
  6. DougZ73

    DougZ73 Fading off.........

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    You guy's and your tire pressures..including mentioning of "max pressures"...ya'll crack me up. :D
  7. thumpididump

    thumpididump MacGyver

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    18psi front & rear, road & offroad -- FTW !


    Sent using Tapatalk on my Samsung Galaxy S3
  8. Nice_Rumble

    Nice_Rumble Long timer

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    12 lbs front and rear on all my bikes on all surfaces. But I'm old and ride slow but I get great traction.
  9. Buzzbomber

    Buzzbomber Not Dr. Who...

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    Enough about tire pressure.

    So, uh, what oil are you running in your bikes? :zilla
    :lol3
  10. byron555

    byron555 Lame Duck Adventurer

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    Shell Rotella T, 5/40 of course. Are there any other oils on the Market??



    :D:D:D
  11. firejosh

    firejosh Adventurer

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    No one told me I need oil in my bike...:rofl
  12. AZ TOM

    AZ TOM Long timer

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    Now you know:D
  13. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Harvey Mushman

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    What's up with the Safari tank for the WRR? justgastanks still says "out of stock until June '12" :huh

    Have they (Safari) decided to stop making them? Anyone manage to buy a new one recently?
  14. what broke now

    what broke now Petroleum Brother

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    You guys got cabin fever already & thanksgiving hasn't even come yet...
  15. DougZ73

    DougZ73 Fading off.........

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    Exactly. Tire pressures are dictated by so many things....which tires, what conditions, suspension settings, rider style and weight, and even outside temperatures. Picking one set of numbers that someone posts online just seems crazy to me. Maybe as a starting point. :D
  16. mbhunter

    mbhunter OnTheEdge

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    Fri, Nov 9, 2012 9:30 am
    We are expecting them to arrive next week. I have the tanks here but no internal parts. So thats all im waiting on right now.

    Thanks, Thomas

    Just Gas Tanks.com
    Customer Service Dept.
    T. 760 758 3725
    F. 760 690 9116
  17. pfy50

    pfy50 Professional nOOb

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    Correct DougZ73;

    The numbers I posted above are a starting point based on the Yamaha factory recommendations for the factory TW301&302 trailwing that are OEM on the WRR. They have the same 33psi Max Load as the Kenda 270 we were talking about. So for street I run around 28-29psi rear(which is 4-6psi under max that I alluded to above to allow for heat expansion) 22psi front for a Loaded WRR and My 240lbs. others will be less/ or more. I am just changing out the front OEM original @ 5500miles. The rear lasted to about 4800miles. Mostly hard road and gravel roads of East Tenn.
  18. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Harvey Mushman

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    Thanks.
  19. OKDQ

    OKDQ Been here awhile

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  20. expatbrit

    expatbrit Still pretty much a n00b.

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    I tried searching the thread, but to no avail, so thought I'd ask.

    Have a 2008 WR250X. Love the thing; keep intending to buy dirt wheels and make it a semi-R, but money keeps getting in the way.

    I've been having a coupleof battery issues lately -- I suspect the battery is weak after the second time it dropped. Didn't think it was a huge issue, until this last time.

    Battery was dead. Charged it, started the bike, and the speedo was registering 3 or 4x my actual speed. (And, yes, the odometer clocking along merrily with it). Figured it had to be electrical, but decided to drop the battery 'just in case' it'd magically fix it, but to no avail.

    A quick google sees Internet evidence that this is not 'uncommon' (Couple of posters over on wr250forum, at least). Consistent low voltage to the gauge will, maybe, break it and cause this speedo error. The fix -- replace the gauge cluster :eek1. Called the local dealer, but they didn't have any idea short of 'replace the battery and bring it to us to run thru' the service manual'. That sounds expensive to me, and if it's just going to end up with buying a new gauge cluster, then I guess I'd rather start with that.

    Before I go out and order a new cluster:
    Has anyone here seen this?
    Any suggestions on anything else to try before I just bite the bullet?

    And, if I do have to order the cluster. where's the cheapest place?