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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.
That's an amazing image.
Right place at the right time, my friend! When I left from my house it was 33 degrees, probably about 45 at the time of the pic.I thought it was really cool seeing the water evaporating from the creek. This part of the oklahoma TAT too.
$90/yr in SW Colorado.
280 per year in LA area with Progressive.
This was my first year on a motorcycle and only third year with endorsement and I am sure the insurance computers that know everything about me know it. Hoping it will go down at some point.
Same thing re: the GYTR rack and Wolfman racks, which also use the same attachment point on the left side. When I inquired, Wolfman advised me by email these 2 are incompatible. I posted the same here, and immediately several people posted photos of GYTR rack and Wolfman racks, proving it can be done.
You are probably correct since you tried it yourself, just saying...
TNX WW Ronin,
That is what I needed to find out before doing another this farkle don't fit with that farkle mistake; (Lot of experience with that problem on my KTM 990):eek1 Does anyone sell a large area flatplate rack for the rear that just uses the 4 top threaded bolts like the pro moto racks? I'm trying to get a wider mounting surface than the smaller triangle shape racks to support a medium size ortlieb bag and camping gear. Yes you can use the small triangle racks, but I'd like to try for a little more support and attachment points.
Yes - these guys. http://www.automotivemachine.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=51&Itemid=56
I have their triangle rack and it's worked great for my needs. They don't include attachment bolts though. When I bought mine it didn't come with spacers either but I see they include them now.
How about some pix of your mounting system?
So with the demise of the rear Pirelli MT16 tire (it didn't stand up to 200 miles of highway at 80 mph, shedding knobs and spliting knobs.) I've opted to go with the following:
Pirelli Scorpion XC Mid-hard. According to Pirelli it's a DOT tire rated to 100 mph.
The rear knobs are definitely harder rubber than the MT16 and shorter. The tire carcass is also much, much stiffer. Not really any heavier, just stiffer.
The Front tire - I'm sure if I should be impressed or frightened! The knobs are smaller, wider spaced than the MT16 and a harder rubber. I truly believe that street riding is going to be heavily impacted - that the front tire's going to be pretty sketch at speeds over 65. That it's supposed to be good to 100+ mph, LOL! I'm not going to go that fast!
I'll post up in a couple weeks on other thoughts. I'll get them mounted and reviewed in a week.
I had one of those on my 950SE. Just drill four holes in the headlight shroud plastic and bolt it on. However, I think the plastic on the WR-R is smaller, thinner, flimsier than the shroud on my SE. If it were me I'd reinforce the WR plastic with something to stiffen it. YRMV.
In any case, it was better for looks than for functionality, though it did deflect a minimal amount of wind on my chest.
I'm quickly coming around to the idea of an HDB setup after a simple tip over bent my Cycra handguards.
I do have a few questions:
- I bought Renthal fatbars. I assume I can use the threaded inserts that come with the HDB kit. Can anyone explain how this works?
- I would eventually like to get a Scotts steering stabilizer and install it under the bars (SUB mount). Does anyone have this setup that can share their experiences and possibly some pictures?
Right, so I'm using HDB's and a Henry-Reed bend ProTaper Contour bar. They bolted right into the HDB clamp, no problem.
The HDB kit comes with a tap screw and two heavy duty screws. You tap the end of the handlebar directly and screw into it. There's no insert - you literally thread the handlebar.
I also have the Scotts damper. You need a riser kit to fit the Damper under the bar. I can't quite recall but I believe when I ordered the Scotts kit I was able to order a mounting kit that included the riser to create enough height for under the bar mounting.
All in all, I am super impressed with the setup and it's worked wonders for the WR.
Paul at HDB will answer all your questions quickly and expertly. I have no affiliation with him; I'm just a satisfied customer. I'm using bars that I bought from him (so inserts pre-installed) and a GPR damper, else I might be able to answer your questions without speculating.
As for tip-overs, I have actually managed to put a very small s-bend in my left one. But that was the result of falling, with the guard directly hitting a large protruding boulder which was probably 2 feet below where my tires were, with a 200-lb rider aboard. I reckon the HDB guards saved a fair bit of damage to the bike (there was none), and possibly major damage to my hand. Nothing the fault of the guards, just operator error. It's so small a bend that I can't be bothered trying to fix it. I'm probably too old and weak to bend it back anyway
Yes not completely compatible, but I managed to make them work and am very pleased with the result.
The Renthal bars I have have an opening on the end that is a small diameter. Is this what you end up tapping?
Yep. Tap/thread the whole bar end.
Thanks. Does anyone have a picture of what this looks like when you are done?
No picture, but when I recently ordered bars from HDB for a top plate/riser installation he sent me bars with the bar end insert installed even though I wasn't going with the HDB guards. The thread was thread same as my Acerbis Hand Guards that use an expanstion bolt (8mm?). But having the insert threaded into the bar end, makes much more sense and is WAY more secure that what I've used in the past. HDB makes good stuff! Once I totally ruin my existing handguards I will go with HDB's set up for sure.
Threading your bars and installing the inserts is a real easy piece of work. Paul sends you the tap with your order
and it will cut threads into your aluminum bars like a hot knife through butter.