Yamaha WR250R Mega Thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Sock Monkey, Apr 7, 2008.

  1. sieg

    sieg Wearing out tires......2 at a time, day after day.

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    I don't replace any seals on an "oil change". An adjustable spanner wrench should work on the steering head nut. (Or a channel locks or punch and hammer are some other crude tool.:D)
  2. Kjharn

    Kjharn Hrmph?

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    :huh

    Or just go to your local hardware store and buy a proper sized socket. I think it's 36mm off the top of my head, but I tear too many bikes down to be positive.
  3. YZEtc

    YZEtc Feel lucky?

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    1) For changing fork oil, the fork seals don't have to be replaced since you won't be separating the inner and outer fork tubes.

    2) I don't bother changing the fork cap o-rings unless (never seen one on my bikes) I were to discover it's damaged.

    3) I DO change the copper washer (called a gasket on the parts catalogue/microfiche) at the bottom of the fork IF the base valve at the bottom of the fork were coming out.
    However, for just an oil change, you will be leaving that alone (see No. 1 above).

    4) You can make do without a proper spanner for the slotted nut on the steering head (although you run a risk of gnarling-up the slotted nut by using pliers or a hammer and screwdriver), but I feel you'll be making it harder to get a good feel for applying proper tension on the steering bearings.
    I've tried it both ways, and since proper tension is easily reached with just your wrist, you get a much better feel for what you're doing with a spanner wrench.

    If you have had your front fork modified/revalved and you want to keep the same feel from it, I'd find out from the guy that did the work (hopefully he sent you a spec. sheet detailing this) what fork oil he used and what oil level he set it at.
  4. sieg

    sieg Wearing out tires......2 at a time, day after day.

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    :huh Really, you can get a socket to use in place of the special tool for the spanner nut at a local hardware store? Pretty well stocked store then. I've always had to mill my spanner sockets out from a standard socket. Never knew they were so readily available.
  5. ba_

    ba_ Long timer

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    In the manual I see mentions of "Silicone grease" and "Lithium-soap-based grease". What are you using here?
  6. Ronin ADV

    Ronin ADV Gear addict

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    Check out the Yamalube webpage. If I remember, I'll take a picture later of the recommended "Lithium soap based grease" when I get back home.
  7. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Harvey Mushman

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    Lithium-soap based grease is the standard kind of "waterproof" bearing grease. Used to use the blue Bel-Ray, now I use the red Yama-lube stuff. Seems to hold up a little better.

    Where is silicone grease called for? I have some that is also called di-electric grease, I use it in spark plug caps and around electrical connections that tend to get dirty/wet. Helps seal out moisture and prevent corrosion, and won't arc.
  8. ba_

    ba_ Long timer

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    Front brake level pivot
  9. HardWorkingDog

    HardWorkingDog Harvey Mushman

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    I like tri-flow for locations like that. Very thin, dirt doesn't stick to it, but it has lubricants--better than wd-40.
  10. Kjharn

    Kjharn Hrmph?

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    I've got one for each of my bikes, ranging from old school SK sockets to cheap-o' ACE Hardware sockets. Even Harbor Freight. Always came through for me.

    If I had the ability to mill sockets, I would do the same thing. :lol3
  11. indypup

    indypup ╭∩╮( º.º )╭∩╮

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    <iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/p1PN0CVofww" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
  12. Old_Crow

    Old_Crow Been here awhile

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    ^ I may have had better food but it looks like you had better entertainment! :rofl

    edit: nice crash there near the end! Balls out!
  13. sieg

    sieg Wearing out tires......2 at a time, day after day.

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    Have to call:topeshere. I doubt you have any spanner sockets. And I know well that you didn't but one from ACE Hardware.:rofl
  14. Kjharn

    Kjharn Hrmph?

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    Misread the post completely. Thought you were speaking about the top-side nut, not the spanner nut. Apologize for the misunderstanding on my part. I do in fact have a bunch of different spanner sockets, I was lucky enough to buy a giant box of them from my school before I graduated. They got some shiny new ones. Spending $10 grand in the last year with MAC Tools alone and being an educated mechanic, I wouldn't be worth my salt if I couldn't service steering head bearings.
  15. firejosh

    firejosh Adventurer

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    nice vid indypup... Those darn hit and run trees.
  16. Joe Watson

    Joe Watson Long timer

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    A quick little vid of a mate on his XR250L and me on the WRR hitting some trails.

    <iframe width="420" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/8vntcOryy5I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
  17. Mr. Fisherman

    Mr. Fisherman PROUD 2B Riff Raff!

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    I love the way your bike looks.
  18. ba_

    ba_ Long timer

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    I just completed my first oil change. Things look good.

    One question though --

    the manual states that the engine oil quantity is 1.30L without filter replacement and 1.40L with filter replacement.

    I've seen quite a few people state that they put in 1.30L (with a filter replacement) which seems too low.

    Which is correct?

    Regardless I put in 1.30L and then put in more oil little by little until I was halfway between the sight glass.
  19. DougZ73

    DougZ73 Fading off.........

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    1/10 th Liter is not going to make or break anything. Just make sure after you button it all up, warm it up, and let drain for 2-3 minutes, its between the lines on the sight glass( with bike vertical, on flat ground), and you will be good to go.
  20. ba_

    ba_ Long timer

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    Thanks Doug